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THE VEST POCKET 

VEGETABLE BOOK 



By CHARLES G. flOORE 



The Vest Pocket Vegetable Book is not, as its 
* title might infer, an advocate of the vegetarian 
theory, but, rather, is an earnest plea for a 
mere general recognition of the vegetable king- 
\ dom, in combination with the animal kingdom, 
as a prol'fic source of supply of appetizing, 
wholesome and nutritious foods for mankind. 



Published by 

THE HOTEL MONTHLY 

CHICAGO 



Copyright 1901, by Charles G. /loore 



I) 



THE LIBRA 
CONGR' 
One Cow 

JAN. 10 

COPv»6MT ENTRY 

CLASS CL XXo. No. 
OOP £ ' 



A* 



*V 



THE VEST POCKET VEGETABLE BOOK. 

The object of this book is to popularize vege- 
tables in the hotels and catering establishments. 
In a great many kitchens the vegetables are not 
given the proper attention, the preparing, cook- 
ing and dishing-up of them being relegated to 
inexperienced or careless persons, with the result 
that large quantities of these wholesome and 
palatable foods are spoiled. The writer is of 
opinion that the vegetable kingdom compares 
favorably with the animal kingdom in food value, 
and affords equal scope for preparing epicurean 
dishes for the table. The writer is also of the 
belief that where close attention is given to vege- 
tables the per capita cost may be reduced without 
detracting from the quality of the menu. 

C. G. M. 



AROMATIC HERBS 

(JFV. Aromatlques Herbes) (Ger. Aromaiische Kranter.) 

Aromatic herbs will be treated under their re- 
spective name. 

ARTICHOKES 

(Fr. Artichauts) (Ger. Artischocken.) 

There are two kinds of vegetables known by 
this name: the green or globe artichoke whose 
flower resembles that of the thistle and provides 
the edible portion, and the Jerusalem artichoke, 
which is a species of sunflower with edible tuber- 
ous roots. The latter is the most common in 
this country. 

There are three kinds of globe artichokes com- 
monly cultivated, but the green (not the purplish) 
heads are considered the best, and are the largest. 
In France, the globe artichoke is eaten raw as a 
salad, but in that state they are very hard to di- 
gest; however, with plenty of olive oil, pepper, 
salt and vinegar, they are a most delicious dish. 

The flower, globe or "burr" artichoke as it is 
sometimes called, is cultivated in nearly all Euro- 
pean countries, but most extensively in France, 
where the bottoms are neatly trimmed, put up in 
cans, and imported to this country, finding a 
ready market. Artichokes are also imported to 
this country in their green state in season, from 
November to May, selling from $2.50 to $4.00 
per dozen. 

The California is a small variety of artichoke 
that is useful for salads, but does not compare 
with the French. 

ARTICHOKES BOILED PLAIN. 
Cut off the tips of the leaves and round off the bottom, 
remove the stalk and trim away the lower leaves, wash in 
cold water several times, rub with a lemon and blanch in 
acidulated water, cut in four, finish cooking in water to 
which has been added a little soda and salt. Let the water 
come to a boll before putting in the artichoke; the salt will 
(1) 



2 THE VEST POCKET 

season and the soda will remove the bitterness. Great care 
should be taken in preparing and washing it as a little sand 
or grit will spoil the luxury of the artichoke. It is served 
hot with melted butter in a sauce bowl, or cold with olive 
oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. 

ARTICHOKES, BARIGOULB. 
Trim the leaves lower down than for plain boiling, blanch 
and par-boil, drain on sieve, wipe dry with towel. Carefully 
scoop out the core or choke, then fill the cavity with a farce 
made of fresh bread crumbs, small pieces of game, truffles, 
mushrooms, shallots, parsley and a little grated bacon, all 
being chopped very fine and run through a sieve. Then 
arrange in a saute pan on slices of ham, carrots, and a small 
faggot of sweet herbs; pour over a glass of white wine, cover i 
with oiled paper and set on the side of the range to simmer 
until quite tender. Take up when done, thicken the liquor 
with a little roux, strain and pour over the artichokes when 
served. J 

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH FRENCH STRING BEANS. 
The canned French beans and artichoke bottoms can be 
used for this dish. They are tossed together in a saute pan 
with a little butter, lemon juice, chicken broth and white 
wine. Cover over with oiled paper and simmer slowly for 
five minutes, then carefully lay the artichokes aside arid 
heap the beans in a pyramid on a vegetable dish. Arrange 
the artichokes around the edge, laying one against the other 1 
to form a perfect border; strain the juice and pour over the 
pyramid when served. 

ARTICHOKES FOR GARNISH. 
Trim and blanch the same as for plain boiling; skin, wipe 
dry, saute in a little butter and white stock until quite 
tender. Make sauce by thickening the broth and adding 
lemon juice, salt and pepper; put in a stone jar, pour sauce 
over, and use when wanted. | 

ARTICHOKE PUREE. 
Is made by running the artichokes prepared for a garnish 
through a puree strainer, adding white broth and Bechamel \ 
sauce. Serve with croutons. 

ARTICHOKE CREAM. 
Wash, slightly trim and blanch the required number of A 
artichokes. Oil bottom of saute pan, arrange the artichokes 
closely together, pour over white wine and a little chicken 
broth, cover with oil paper, simmer until all the juice has 
evaporated; run through a hair sieve, mix in a liaison of 1 
yolks and whipped cream, season with salt and pepper. 
Put in small molds, steam until the mixture congeals, un- 
mold, serve with cream or Bechamel sauce poured around. 
The addition of a little onion juice will improve the cream 
if not objectionable. 



ARTICHOKES WITH EGGS. 
Trim the artichokes to the bottom, blanch and boil tender < 
the same as plain boiled; arrange with the hollow side up 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 3 

on fancy cut piece of fried bread. Fry the eggs in biitter, 
trim off the whites to fit the artichoke and serve very hot. 

ARTICnOKE OMELET. 
Use the artichokes prepared for garnish, cut in dice, add a 
little chopped parsley, roll in the omelet as usual and 
serve on a hot platter. 

ARTICHOKE SOUP. 
Trim, blanch and boil the artichokes in white broth with 
a faggot of sweet herbs, slice of onion and a blade of 
mace; puree and finish with Bechamel sauce. Add a liaison 
of egg yolks to make it the consistency of thick soup. Sea" 
eon with pepper, salt and a little grated nutmeg. 

ARTICHOKES STUFFED. 
Closely trim the artichoke all around, blanch and scoop 
out the choke; stuff the cavity with a farce made of onions, 
ripe tomatoes, mushrooms, fresh bread crumbs, and goose 
livers. Braise in the oven, glaze and use as a garnish for 
meat dishes. 

ARTICHOKES, HOLLANDAISE. 
Plain boiled; served with a rich Hollandaise oauce. 

ARTICHOKES, POULETTE. 
Plain boiled; served with Poulette sauce. 

ARTICHOKES WITH FINE HERBS. 
Plain boiled; served with fine herbs sauce. 

ARTICHOKES, VINAIGRETTE. 

Plain boiled; served either hot or cold with vinaigrette 
sauce. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES 

(Fr. Topinamboura) {Ger. Erdartischocken). 

This tuberous root resembles the potato some- 
what, but has none of its properties. It is more 
the nature of the turnip, as it contains sugar in 
large quantities. The nutritive value is slight, and 
for that reason it is not adapted for a staple food. 
However, it is worthy of more attention than it 
has received at the hands of our chefs. They are 
very plentiful in this country and can be had dur- 
ing all the winter season at a very reasonable 
price. The more they are chilled the better 
they are. 

They are very troublesome to prepare on ac- 
count of their awkward shape, the tubers project- 
ing out all around, yet they can be easily detached 
and formed into pear shape, just right for gar- 
nishing. After peeling they should be thrown 



4 THE VEST POCKET 

in cold water to prevent them from turning 
black. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES BOILED WITH WHITE SAUCE. 
Boil from twenty to twenty-five minutes in salt and water, 
letting the water come to the boiling point before putting in 
the artichokes. Make a white sauce by thickening equal 
parts of the liquor tbe artichoke has been boiled in and 
sweet cream; season with grated nutmeg, salt, pepper and a 
little lemon juice. Great care should be taken to remove 
them as soon as soft, for when boiled longer they become 
hard again. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES BAKED. 
Peel and trim the required ntimber; put in a covered 
bake-dish, using plenty of butter; season with salt and 
pepper; bake in a brisk oven for thirty minutes: when done 
they should be a rich brown color; serve while hot. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES AU GRATIN. 
After boiling cut in dice, mix with Bechamel sauce, sea- 
son, put in gratin dishes, sprinkle with grated Parmesan 
cheese and fresh bread crumbs. Bake and serve in same 
dish. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES MASHED. 
Peel, boil and mash the same as mashed turnips, season 
with cream, salt and white pepper. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES AND BRUSSELS SPROUTS 
FOR GARNISH. 
The artichokes are trimmed pear shape, boiled and mixed 
with blanched brussels sprouts in a white sauce. Use for 
garnishing meat entrees. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SOUP. 
Peel the required number of large artichokes, cut in thin 
slices, wash thoroughly in cold water, braise in butter with 
a carrot, two onions, sprig of celery, faggot of sweet herbs, 
a few allspice and bay leaves. Add enough strong chicken 
broth to make the soup, let boil and shove back to simmer 
for three hours. Make a white roux by beating together 
equal parts of butter and flour, stir into soup, let boil for 
five minutes, remove from fire, rub through puree strainer, 
season with salt and white pepper. Before serving add 
one-fourth boiled sweet cream. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, LYONNAISE. 

Peel, par-boil and simmer in Espagnole, the required 
number; take up. strain the sauce, add the juice of a lemon 
and mix with one-fifth butter and a little onion juice, glaze 
the artichokes, arrange on dish, pour sauce over them and 
serve. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, ITALIAN. 

Prepare in the usual manner, simmer in white broth until 
they assume a yellowish color and are quite tender. Serve 
with white Italian sauce. 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 5 

ASPARAGUS 

( (Fr. Asperges) (Ger. Spargel) 

Sparrow-grass is the old-fashioned name. The 

young and tender shoots of A. officinalis, which 

\ forms a valuable and well known article of food. 

Although cultivated it grows wild in damp places. 

Asparagus is one of the best vegetables we have 

< and is easily prepared for the table. It can be had 
almost the year around, but is at its best in 
season, which is from May to July. Gardeners 

< take great pride in growing asparagus as the price 
depends on the quality. The tender shoots will 
grow from two to three inches in one night, and 

, should be covered during the day, as the heat of 
the sun causes them to become tough and less 
delicate. The white has the best flavor and brings 

\ the highest price, but the skin is thick and more 
fibrous; yet the violet grows longer and is prefered 
by some. The green is more common and less 

< favored for eating whole, but it makes most 
delicious soups and purees. Asparagus is put up 
in cans when in the pink of perfection, and many 

j times is better than the fresh. The German 
canned asparagus is highly esteemed and brings 
the best price. 

Asparagus, being very perishable, is rather a 

* difficult vegetable to procure on the open mar- 
ket, as it usually has been cut from one to two 

f days before it reaches the table. It has a very 
fetid odor when old and in an unfit condition 
to be served, yet otherwise it may appear fresh. 

i I have found it a very good idea to buy direct 
from the gardeners, with the understanding that 
it is to be delivered the same morning cut. They 

* may expect a little higher price but it will be 
money well spent. 

To prepare asparagus for cooking: sort out the 
large shoots, scrape them from the tips down, 
throw into ice-water, thoroughly wash, drain in 
a sieve, tie in bunches about twelve to eighteen to 
the bunch, trim bottoms to make them equal 



6 THE VEST POCKET 

length, then boil. The small shoots are saved 
for soups and purees. It should not be left stand- i 
ing in water, as it sours in a very short time. 

ASPARAGUS BOILED WITH DRAWN BUTTER. 
Prepare in the usual way. Boil siowly in salt and water i 
until tender, cut bands, serve on a folded napkin, with 
drawn butter in a sauce bowl. 

ASPARAGUS, HOLLANDAISB. 
Prepare, boil plain; serve with Hollandaise sauce. > 

ASPARAGUS PATTIES, COMTESSE. 
Clean the asparagus in usual way, cut in pieces half inch 
long, par-boil, drain on sieve. Clean some fresh mushrooms, j 
cut in dice, 6aute with the asparagus in butter; mix with 
veloute sauce and simmer for ten minutes, season with salt, 
pepper and a little lemon juice; All in small puff paste 
patties, put in oven and let remain until very hot; serve j 
with some rich veloute sauce separate. 

ASPARAGUS, BECHAMEL. 
Boil plain, and serve with Bechamel sauce. 

ASPARAGUS TIPS, MAINTENON 
Cut off the tips, blanch, saute in fresh butter, season 
while cooking, mix with Poulette sauce; serve in vegetable 
dish with fancy cut croutons. 

ASPARAGUS STEWED. 
Prepare, cut in pieces two inches long, blanch, saute with 
small pieces of bacon, chopped parsley, chervil and fresh 
mushrooms, simmer in gravy, season with grated nutmeg, 
salt and pepper; Berve on toast or in Romaine cases. 
ASPARAGUS STUFFING. 
Clean, cut in pieces ha'.f inch long, boil; mix with demi- 
glace fresh bread crumbs, mashed yolks of hard boiled 
eggs and butter; season with chopped chives, salt and 
pepper. Use for stuffing game and domestic birds. 
ASPARAGUS FARCE FOR POMPADOUR. 
Boil, drain on towel laid on roast pan, put in oven to eva- 
porate moisture. Chop very fine, mix with thick Hollan- 
daise sauce, season with salt, pepper and a little lemon 
juice, put away to get cold; use when wanted. 

ASPARAGUS TIPS FRIED, MIRANDA. 
Cut off the tips two inches long, blanch in saltwater, 
drain, roll in flour, egg and bread in fresh crumbs; fry in 
hot lard; serve on folded napkin. 

Sauce: Rub the yoik of a hard boiled egg with the yolk 
of a raw one, mix in some olive oil. malt vinegar, chopped 
gherkins and a few drops of tabasco sauce. Garnish with 
fried young parsley and a slice of lemon. 

ASPARAGUS AU GRATIN. 

Boil, cut in pieces one inch long, mix with white sauce, 

season with salt and cayenne pepper. Put in gratin 

dish, smooth down, sprinkle with grated American cheese, 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 7 

fresh bread crumbs, and small pieces of butter over top; 
bake and serve as soon as brown. 

ASPARAGUS IN PYRAMID. 

Make a band (or border) of stiff noodle paste three inches 
wide and the required length to fit nicely inside the border 
of a fancy plate. Form around a can or jar. stick ends to- 
gether with a beaten raw egg yolk. Cut stars, etc., stick on 
border to make it look artistic, wash with egg yolks and 
milk, put away to dry and get firm 

Select large fancy shoots of green asparagus, tie in small 
bunches, cut four inches long from tips, boil; arrange the 
bottom tier inside of the border, having the tips leaning a 
little toward the center to prevent tipping over. It can be 
built three or four tiers high, each tier a little smaller, 
until It has the shape oi a pyramid: a napkin folded length- 
wise can be held around it while being built, slightly pres- 
sing toward the center. 

If served hot. place in oven for a few seconds. Sauce can 
be served to taste. 

ASPARAGUS OMELET. 

Prepare, cut in pieces half inch long, blanch, drain 
on sieve, braise in butter, add a little white stock, cover 
sauce-pan and let simmer for eight minutes, while tne ome- 
let is being made. When done, season, roll up in omelet 
and serve on hot platter, garnish with a sprig of fried young 
parsley laid on top. 

ASPARAGUS TIPS IX VIENNA ROLLS. 

Have made in bake-shop the required number of large 
Vienna rolls. While hot cut off the top to make the cover, 
dig out the entire inside, so as to form a box or case. 
Sprinkle with butter; return to oven, brown and keep hot 
until the asparagus is ready. 

Scrape, wash, tie, cut the shoots four inches long, or the 
length to fit the roll. Boil in the usual way; when done 
lay on a towel to drain. Make a sauce by boiling cream, 
-."icken with a liaison of eggs, remove from the lire, beat 
in small pieces of butter to make it rich, season with salt 
and pepper. Fill the rolls with the tips, pour over the 
sauce, put on the cover. Serve on a folded napkin; garnish 
with parsley. 

ASPARAGUS, SPANISH STYLE. 

Boil the asparagus until done, drain. Poach eggs in same 

water after a little vinegar has been added. Spread the 

asparagus out on a platter or large vegetable dish; place 

poached eggs on top; serve with vinaigrette sauce. 

ASPARAGUS WITH YOUNG CARROTS. 

Select a dozen small carrots of uniform size, clean, par 
boil and saute in butter until done. Prepare the bunches 
of asparagus as for plain boiling. Arrange alternately 
with the carrots on a platter. Serve with veloute sauce 
poured over. 

ASPARAGUS AND SALMON SALAD. 

Prepare and boil the asparagus, put away in ice box to 



8 THE VEST POCKET 

get cold. Open a can of salmon, drain off the juice and 
break in small pieces; put in a salad bowl, mix with olive 
oil, lemon juice, salt, and a few drops of tabasco sauce. 
Lay on salad plate. Cut asparagus in pieces an inch long, 
lay on top of the salmon. Serve with mayonnaise, garnish 
around bottom with slices of lemon cut triangular shape. All 
must be served cold. 

ASPARAGUS, VINAIGRETTE. 

Prepare, boil, and put in ice box to get very cold. Serve 
whole on a lettuce leaf, with Vinaigrette sauce. 
ASPARAGUS TIPS, COLBERT. 

Prepare, tie two inches from tips so they may be cut off 
three inches long, leaving the band plenty of room to hold 
the tips together. Blanch in salt and water, saute in butter 
with a little Bechamel sauce, dish on center of a large 
platter, surround with poached eggs with the whites trim- 
med round and placed on a piece of toast the same size; 
sprinkle over a little meat glaze. Serve. 
ASPARAGUS PUREE. 

The asparagus that the tips have been used for other 
purposes will do to make a puree. Scrape, wash clean, 
braise in butter with a few shallots, a faggot of parsley and 
a blade of mace. Add veal stock, simmer until tender, 
strain off the broth, thicken with a roux. Remove faggot 
and blade of mace, run through a puree strainer, add to 
soup, let simmer two hours, skim, season and add one- 
eighth sweet cream. Serve with croutons. 

ASPARAGUS AND LOBSTER SALAD. 

Scrape, wash and cut in pieces one-half inch long. Boil 
in salt and water until tender, strain off the water, put 
away to get cold. Put in a salad bowl with equal parts of 
boiled lobster cut in dice, season with cayenne pepper, salt 
and vinegar. Dish in small pyramids on a lettuce leaf. 
Serve with mayonnaise that has been mixed with half Bech- 
amel sauce; garnish on top with a piece of claw meat. 
ASPARAGUS AND SHRIMP SALAD. 

The same as asparagus and lobster salad, using shrimp 
tails instead of lobster. Save out some whole ones to gar- 
nish the top. 

CREAM OF ASPARAGUS, COMTESSE. 

Scrape and wash the asparagus, cut off the tips leaving 
them one and one-half inches long.lay them aside to garnish 
the soup. Cut the remaining shoots in short pieces, 
put in sauce pan with a chunk of fresh butter, one small 
leek, two bay leaves and a faggot of parsley. Braise for 
fifteen minutes, cover with a strong chicken broth and 
simmer until tender. Strain off the broth; make a roux in 
the sauce pan, add the broth and as much more to make 
the required quantity of soup ; put back the asparagus after 
being run through the puree strainer; shove back on the 
range to simmer for thirty minutes, or until the tips have 
been boiled. Skim soup, finish with rich Bechamel sauce, 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 9 

strain through hair sieve, put in the tips and serve with 
croutons souffles. 

ASPARAGUS TIPS FOR CONSOMME. 

Blanch the tips only for this purpose as they will get 
tender enough in the hot consomme. They are used in al- 
most all vegetable garnishes for soups. 

ASPARAGUS GLACE. 

Prepare asparagus the same as for plain boiling. Put in 

covered can, pack in ice and salt, to be chilled but not frozen. 

Cut band, serve on chopped aspic jelly with vinaigrette 

sauce; garnish with gherkins cut in fan shape. 

ASPARAGUS TIPS FOR GARNISH. 

Cut off the tips, blanch, toss in a little butter, season with 
salt, pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Add veloute sauce. 
They are then ready to serve with meat entree. 

BALM-MINT 

(Fr. Melisse) (Ger. Melisseminze). 

The Balm-mint is a hardy perennial aromatic 
herb, sometimes taken for mint. Used for sea- 
soning game, flavoring vinegar, etc. 

BARLEY 

(Fr. Orge) (Ger. Gerste) 

Barley is a well known cereal of the species of 
Hordeum. It is ground into grits and flour, and 
while fresh is made into bread which is considered 
very wholesome, but when old it becomes musty, 
having a nauseous taste. 

It is chiefly used in malting. 

The cultivation of barley dates back as far as 
the Romans. 

PEARL BARLEY 

(Fr. Orge Perle) (Ger. Perlegraupen). 

Pearl barley is made from spring barley in this 
country. The barley is steamed and run through 
machinery that removes the hulls, leaving the 
grain whole. Scotch barley is winter barley and 
does not grow as large and plump as ours. The 
French barley is much the same as the Scotch. 
Pearl barley is one of the features of the famous 
broths, a l'Anglaise and a l'Ecossaise. The Eng- 
lish and Scotch do not consider their soup com- 
plete without it. 

PEARL BARLEY FOR BREAKFAST CEREAL. 

Soak tbe barley over night in cold water; in the morning 
drain off the water, put in farina boiler with fresh water to 



10 THE VEST POCKET 

cover it, add a little salt and cook for three hours; it should 
be the consistency of oat meal. Serve with sugar and 
cream. 

Barley, grain or pearl is so thickly incased in gluten that 
it requires to be cooked longer than any other cereal we 
have. 

BARLEY GRUEL. 

This gruel is prescribed by many physicians for the sick 
and convalescent, when their stomach cannot retain other 
nourishment. 

Wash and soak two ounces of pearl barley in clear water 
for four hours, blanch, wash again thoroughly in several 
waters, drain, put to cook in a farina boiler with one quart 
of distilled water, let cook for five hours, strain through 
cheese cloth, add equal parts rich milk, flavor with vanilla, 
put in ici box to get cold, when it will be found a very nour- 
ishing drink. A little sugar can be added if prefered. 
BARLEY CREAM SOUP. 

Wash the barley thoroughly in cold water, drain, put in 
sauce pan with a lump of butter, one leek cut in small 
pieces, a sprig of celery, a blade of mace and a few pepper 
corns. Braise for fifteen minutes, add the required amount 
of strong chicken broth, boil up, and shove back to simmer 
for six hours. 

Make a white roux by rubbing together equal parts of 
butter and flour, beat into the soup, boil for fifteen minutes 
longer, skim. Remove from the fire, rub through a puree 
strainer. Finish with a liaison of egg yolks and sneet 
croam. season with salt, white pepper and a little grated 
nutmeg. Servo. 

BAY LEAVES. 

(Fr. Lauriers) (Ger. Lorbeerblatter.) 

The bay tree is a shrub of the laurel tribe 
Laurns nobilis. The leaves are picked and 
dried to eliminate the bitterness, and in this state 
are extensively used by cooks in preparing soups, 
sauces, stews, etc., to which the> impart a fra- 
grant odor and an aromatic flavor. When green 
they are used in pickling. 

BEANS. 

(.Fr. Haricots) (Ger. Bohnen). 

Most of the edible beans belong to the genus 
Phaseolus. They are a vegetable of which there 
are many varieties, namely, String, French 
String, Wax, Navy, Red Kidney, Lima, Broad 
or Windsor, etc. Some are eaten when young 
and tender, pods and all; others allowed to ripen, 
and removed from the pods. 



VEGETABLE BOOK. II 

STRING BEANS. 

(Fr. Haricots verts) (Ger. Junge grune Bohnen) 

A variety called the Refugee, produced in cul- 
ture by crossing the early Red Valentine with the 
Dwarf is considered the best for canning and using 
fresh in season. They are almost stringless and 
without many seeds. The pods are small, round 
and of uniform size. 

The French String or Dwarf, grown from im- 
ported seed, are excellently flavored, but only 
successfully cultivated in certain sections of this 
country. Those imported from France in cans, 
labeled Haricots verts, and Haricots Flageolets, 
are of no value whatever as food, but are used in 
artistic cookery on account of their beautiful 
green color, which is produced by sulphate of 
copper, and when used must be washed thor- 
oughly in cold water, which will remove some of 
the poisonous color. (The latter variety, called 
Flageolets, are simply the French beans, half 
grown, and removed from the pods; that is, when 
the pods are too old to be eaten, but the seeds 
are tender and green like peas.) When canned 
uncolored they present a bleached out appear- 
ance, neither comparing in color or flavor with 
the American canned string beans. However, 
there is little excuse for using canned beans of 
any kind, as our markets are plentifully supplied 
with fresh beans from July to April. When the 
home grown is exhausted we are abundantly sup- 
plied from the South with both the flat and round 
varieties through the winter. 

When purchasing green string beans select 
those that are yjung, smooth, crisp, juicy and 
will break across clear without leaving a shred. 

STRING BEANS, PLAIN BOILED. 

Select small, young, crisp beansof uniform size, break off 
the ends, string, wash thoroughly, leave whole; salt the 
water, add a pinch of soda and let come to a boll before 
puttinK in the beans; boil until tender, drain, season 
with salt and pepper. Serve in a deep vegetable dish with 
melted butter poured over. 



12 THE VEST POCKET 

STRING BEANS FOR GARNISH. 

Select large sized beans, string, wash, cut cross-wise in 
pieces diamond shape, boil, drain, squeoze dry in a clean 
towel, saute in butter, add a little white wine, simmer a 
few seconds, season with salt and pepper. Use to garnish 
meat dishes, etc. 

STRING BEANS. ANGLAISE. 

The same as plain boiled, except sprinkle with chopped 
parsley and a few shreds of cooked bacon. Season and 
serve on slices of buttered toast. 

STRING BEANS, BRETONNE. 

Cut a medium sized onion in small dice, saute in butter 
to a golden color, rub in a little flour, moisten with white 
broth, boil, skim, add plain boiled beans (left whole), sim- 
mer for a few seconds to heat the beans. Season with salt, 
pepper and a little grated nutmeg; sprinkle with chopped 
young parsley. Serve on a hot platter; or use to garnish 
meat entrees. 

STRING BEANS IN CREAM. 

Select young beans, string, cut in pieces one inch long, 
boil, drain, simmer in sweet cream a few minutes. Season 
with salt, pepper and butter. Serve in a deep vegetable 
dish. 

STRING BEAN SALAD. 

Plain boiled beans left whole and put in ice-box to get 
very cold. Serve on curly lettuce leaves with French salad 
dressing poured over. Garnish with a rose made of a 
radish. 

STRING BEANS, VINAIGRETTE. 

The same as string bean salad, except serve with vinai- 
grette sauce. Garnish with a slice of lemon dipped In 
chopped parsley, and a small gherkin cut fan shape. 
STRING BEANS, POULETTE. 

Plain boiled beans, kept hot; serve in a deep vegetable 
dish with poulette sauce poured over. 

STRING BEANS IN GRAVY. 

Cut a sound onion in dice, saute in butter, add enough 
gravy to make the sauce, bcil up, skim, put in the required 
amount of string beans, simmer a few minutes; season with 
salt and pepper, sprinkle with chopped young parsley. 
Serve in a deep vegetable dish, or use for garnish. 
BEANS, PANACHEE. 

Cut plain boiled string beans in pieces three fourths of an 
Inch long, mix with equal amount of plain boiled Lima 
beans (see Lima beans), saute in butter, toss gently while 
cooking a few minutes. Season with salt and pepper, 
sprinkle with chopped young parsley and serve on a hot 
platter. 

STRING BEANS WITH FINE HERBS. 

Chop a fresh mushroom and shallots very fine, saute in 
butter, add plain boiled beans, toss gently over a hot fire 
until thoroughly heated. Season with salt, pepper, grated 
nutmeg and a little lemon juice. Sprinkle with chopped 
parsley and serve on a hot platter. 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 13 

WAX BEANS. 

(Fr. Haricots jaunes) (Ger. Junge Wachs-Bohnen) . 

These luxurious beans, which are of American 
origin, were first cultivated in South Carolina. 
The pods of the flat variety are long, of a clear, 
golden waxy color (from which they are named), 
and entirely stringless. When cooked they are 
tender and well flavored. The round are much 
the nature of the string bean, except the pods are 
clear waxy white, and have the advantage of 
being a most excellent shell bean when ripe. 

Wax beans are companions of String beans in 
season and are selected, prepared and cooked the 
same, except in boiling, add a little lemon juice 
instead of soda. 

NAVY BEANS. 

(Fr. Haricots communs blancs) (Ger. Weisse Bohnen). 

Are a small variety of dried white beans — so- 
called for being used in the navy. In time of 
war they are an indispensable article of food in 
both the army and navy, on account of their 
nutritive value and small bulk. To be at their 
best they should be not more than a year old. 
Their age is easily determined by biting one in 
two. The newly dried ones have a soft, glossy, 
yellowish white center. Those a year or more 
old have a hard, dry, flinty and grayish appear- 
ance. 

NAVY BEANS, PLAIN BOILED. 

Select newly arled beans, soak in cold water for two hours, 
drain, cover witli hot water, put In a ham bone, boil up, and 
shove back to simmer until tender. Remove the ham-bone, 
season with salt and pepper; serve as a vegetable, or garn- 
ish for meat entrees. 

PUREE OF NAVY BEANS. 

Soak the beans over night 1 n cold water, drain, add a ham- 
bone, one onion, a carrot, and a faggot of parsley, cover 
with the required amount of white broth, boil up and shove 
back to simmer until tender. Remove the ham-bone and 
faggot, rub through a puree strainer, season with salt and 
pepper: serve with croutons. For Friday use water instead 
of white broth. 

BOSTON BAKED BEANS. 

Boston baked beans are somewhat troublesome to pre- 
pare, so I have gleaned the following from an article pub- 
lished by the Boston Cooking School: 



14 THE VEST PCCKET 

Select the small variety of newly dried Navy Beans, soak' 
in cold water for one hour, drain, and fill a Boston bean jar j 
two-thirds full of the beans. Check the rind of a piece of 
salt pork, place on top, fill to the brim with hot water, add I 
a pinch of dry mustard and three tablepoonsfuls of black' 
molasses; place on cover. Bake in brick oven over 
night. Serve with Boston brown bread. 

The beans must be whole, dry, mealy, and of a rich brown 
color, which feature can only be accomplished in a brick 
oven under certain conditions: that is, they are to be baked 
at night in an oven which has been used for other purposes 
during the day. The remaining slowly declining heat has 
the proper effect to produce the most delicious flavor. 

When baked in the range, the fire should be kept very 
slow for three or four hours, then allowed to go entirely 
out, which will produce nearly the same results. 

RED KIDNEY BEANS. 

(Fr. Flageolets rouges) (Ger. Rothe Dohnen). 

Are an American variety of pole runners which 
grow quite large, kidney shape, and bright red. 
They are generally used as a dry bean. Their 
beautiful color and excellent flavor has won for 
them a place among the highly classed legumes. 
They are prepared and cooked the same as Navy 
Beans. 

LIMA BEANS. 

(Fr. Haricots de Lima) (Ger. Lima Bohnen). 

A variety of climbing or pole beans, that 
has no equal when shelled about two-thirds grown. 
They are very perishable, and should be cooked 
as soon as they are removed from the pods, for 
when exposed to the air a short time they become 
spotted and moldy, which destroys their delicate 
flavor. Their season is of short duration, lasting 
only from August 15th to September 15th. When 
freshly shelled, they have a spotless, glossy and 
yellowish green appearance. They are dried when 
more matured, but are then only suitable for 
soups and purees. The canned are fair, yet do 
not compare with the fresh. 

LIMA BEANS, PLAIN BOILED. 
Remove from the pods, steep in cold water a few minutes 
to make them crisp, boil in salted water until tender, drain, 
toss over hot fire in a saute pan with butter. Season with 
salt and pepper. Serve ou a hot platter as a vegetable, or 
use for garnish. 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 15 

LIMA BEANS. MAITRE D' HOTEL. 
The same as plain boiled, except add a little iemon juice, 
■ sprinkle with chopped young parsley. Serve on fancy cut 
slices of toast. 

LIMA BEAN SALAD. 

Plain boiled, drain, press dry in a napkin, put in salad 

u bowl, place in ice-box to get very cold. Cut one sound 

^ onion in small dice, blanch, immerge in cold water, press 

dry, season with olive oil, lemon juice, salt and cayenne 

pepper. Heap in a pyramid on a salad plate, sprinkle with 

< chopped chives. Garnish around the base with hard boiled 

eggs cut in quarters. Serve. 

PUREE OF LIMA BEANS. 
Use dry Lima beans and proceed the same as for Puree 
I of Navy Beans. 

BROAD OR WINDSOR BEANS. 

(Fr. Feves de Windsor) (Ger. Saubohnen). 

1 This bean is a native of western Asia, being 
known to the ancients in prehistoric times, and is 
still largely cultivated in the fields and gardens of 

" the old world. They are much the nature of the 
Lima Bean (containing fifty per cent, nutritive 
value) and are shelled, prepared and cooked the 

<f same as Lima Beans. When dry they are used 
as feed for horses, sheep, hogs, etc. 
BEETS. 

Ik (Fr. Better aves). (Ger. Rothe Ruben). 

The beet is a fleshy succulent root of a biennial 
herb Beta vulgaris of the goose-foot family, 
which produces an edible root the first year, and 
' seed the second year. 

The common beet has many varieties in culti- 
vation, but the Sugar, Red and White only are 
concerned in culinary operations. 

The Sugar is a variety with small top leaves 
• and a large root, which is extensively cultivated 
in France and Germany for producing beet sugar, 
on account of its great yield and saccharine qual- 
ities. 

The Red, also rich in sugar, is the subject of 

F considerable solicitude on the part of the market 

gardeners because of its extensive use for cooking. 

The White or Swiss chard is a distinct variety 

cultivated for the leaves and leafstalks, and is 

much superior to the common beet for greens, yet 



l6 THE VEST POCKET 

the roots are of no value. Early in the spring, 
when the leaves are young and tender, they are 
picked and cooked like spinach. Later, when they 
grow larger and less suitable for greens, the stems, 
which are long, tender and waxy white, are cooked 
and eaten like asparagus. 

The roots of the Red are of the greatest value, 
and when cooked should be tender, well flavored 
and a crimson color all through, which makes 
them indispensable in artistic cookery. 

BEETS PLAIN BOILED. 
Select smooth, young, red beets, cut off tops half inch 
from the root, wash and clean without cutting or scraping; 
great care should be taken not to injure the root, as in boil- 
ing it will lose its color and flavor. Boil in salt water (add 
a little vinegar to set the color) from One to four hours, ac- 
cording to the age and size. When done submerge in cold 
water, peel or rub off the skin and use as needed. 
BEETS WITH MELTED BUTTER. 
Slice plain boiled beets one-fourth inch thick, arrange in 
vegetable dish, season with salt and pepper. Serve very 
hot with melted butter poured over. 

BEETS IN CREAM. 
Slice cold boiled beets into a stew pan, moisten with a 
little strong white broth, let simmer until thoroughly 
heated, add a liaison of egg yolks and sweet cream, chafe 
over a quick fire for a few seconds, season with salt and 
pepper. Serve in a covered vegetable dish. 
BEET-ROOT SALAD. (1) 
Slice cold boiled beets into a salad bowl. Season and 
serve with French salad dressing poured over. 
BEET-ROOT SALAD. (2) 
Arrange slices of cold boiled beets alternately with 
slices of hard boiled eggs on a platter; season with salt and 
pepper. Serve with olive oil and a little lemon juice 
poured over. 

BEET-ROOT SALAD. (3) 
Pass cold boiled beets through a column tube; slice. Ar- 
range in a wreath, overlapping each other on a platter; 
pour over French salad dressing; garnish center with leaf 
lettuce cut Julienne style. „ 

BEET-ROOT MAYONNAISE. 
Stir equal parts of cold Bechamel sauce and Mayonnaise 
together; slice cold boiled beets in salad bowl, mix in the ( 
sauce, season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Serve on 
a lettuce leaf with some of the sauce poured over. Garnish 
with a quarter of a hard boiled egg and chopped chives. 
BAKED BEETS. 
Select smooth, young red beets of uniform size, wash 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 17 

thoroughly, bake In a slow oven from four to six hours; 
when done serve hot seasoned with butter, pepper and salt. 
When cold pare off the outside, cut in small dice. Minse 
an onion, saute in butter until a golden color, add beets, 
season with salt, pepper and a little tarragon vinegar. Let 
simmer until thoroughly heated. Serve in a deep vegetable 
dish. 

BEETS STUFFED. 
Bake the beets as in the foregoing recipe; when done cut 
off the crown one-fourth down to make the cover, dig out 
the center with a vegetable scoop, cbop it very fine, add a 
little white sauce, season with salt, pepper, butter and a 
little lemon juice. Fill the cavity, put on cover, return to 
oven and let remain until they become very hot. Serve on 
folded napkin; garnish with parsley. 

PICKLED BEETS. 
Put plain boiled beets in a stone jar. add a few mixed 
spices, cover with vinegar and use when needed. They are 
not favored as a pickle, yet, when prepared In this manner, 
they are always ready to cut in fancy shapes to garnish sal- 
ads, vinaigrettes, etc. 

BEET GREENS. 
Procure freshly gathered young Swiss chard-beets, cutoff 
the tops, pick out the wilted leaves, remove the stalks, wash 
In several waters, drain and boil for thirty minutes in water 
to which has been added a pinch of salt and soda. Drain, 
chop fine, season with butter, pepper and salt. Serve as a 
vegetable or with boiled salt meats. 

BEET STALKS WITH MELTED BUTTER. 
Cut off the leaves and roots, wash thoroughly, tie in bun- 
ches, let steep in cold water for two hours; drain, and boll 
in salted water for twenty minutes or until tender. Cut 
the bands. Serve on asparagus platter with melted butier 
poured over. 

BROCCOLI. 

. (Fr. Chou-Brocoli.) (Ger. Spargel-Kohl.) 

Is a plant of the cabbage species, Brassica 
oleracea, resembling the cauliflower so closely 

• that it is hardly possible to distinguish the differ- 
ence. There are two varieties, the Purple and 
White Cape. The Purple grows the larger and 

* more compact, yet the White is the best flavored. 

Broccoli is most successfully cultivated on Long 
t Island, and from there we are supplied from Oc- 
tober to December, which time fresh vegetables 
are very scarce; consequently it is a welcomed 
L visitor to the market. (For preparing and cook- 
ing see Cauliflower.) 



l8 THE VEST POCKET 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

(Fr. Choux de Bruxelles.) (Ger. Roseiikohl.) 

Is a plant of the cabbage family, Brassica 
oleracea, gemmifera and produces in the axils 
of the upright stem numerous small green heads 
or "sprouts" each a cabbage in miniature about 
an inch in diameter. 

Also called THE THOUSAND - HEADED 
CABBAGE. 

These tasty little vegetables are found on the 
market from October to April, and are at their 
best when slightly touched by frost, which makes 
them tender and richly flavored. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS, PLAIN BOILED. 

Select the sprouts of uniform size, pick off the outside 
leaves, wash thoroughly in cold water, cook in boiling 
water (to which has been added a pinch of soda and salt) 
until tender. Remove from the fire, pour off the hot water, " 
immerse in cold water, drain, press dry in a clean towel and 
use as needed. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS, SAUTE. 

Select small compact sprouts, pick off the outside leaves, ' 
wash, blanch in water to which a pinch of soda and salt has 
been added, drain, press dry, saute in butter for five min- 
utes, season wi;h salt, cayenne pepper and a little lemon 
juice. Serve in a border of mashed potatoes; garnish with 
a sprig of fried young parsley. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS FRIED IN CRUMBS. 

Prepare the same as in the foregoing recipe, except, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, roll in flour, egg and bread in . 
fresh crumbs, fry in hot fat. Serve while very hot on folded 
napkin. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS FOR GARNISH. 

Select small compact sprouts of uniform size, pick off the 
outside leaves; trim neatly, blanch, press dry. saute in 
butter, season with salt and pepper. 

GARNISH, A LA FLAMANDE: Prepare one pint of ' 
sprouts as in the foregoing directions. Cook and glaze 
a like quantity of small onions, turnips and carrots cut the 
same size with a Parisian cutter. Arrange alternately in ^ 
groups around meat entrees. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS IN GRAVY. 

Prepare, blanch and simmer for a few minutes in brown . 
gravy, season with salt and a little cayenne pepper. Serve 
In croustades or paper cas>es. 

OMELET WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 

Prepare the same as for garnish, roll in omelet. Serve on , 
hot piatter with brown sauce separate. 



• 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 19 

BRU3SELS SPROUTS, BECHAMEL. 
Plain boil the sprouts, season, and serve in deep vegetable 
dish with rich Bechamel sauce poured over. 

SALAD OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS- 
Plain boil, put in ice-bcx to remain until very cold. 
Season, dress with olive oil, malt vinegar and a few drops 
of Tabasco sauce. Serve on curiy lettuce leaf. 

CABBAGE. 

(Fr. Chou.) (Get: Kohl oder Kraut.) 

Is an esculent vegetable of many species, de- 
rived from the wild Brassica oleracea. The 
common cabbage has heavy veined leaves of a 
rounding shape, crowded into a solid head on a 
short stout stem. 

There are many varieties cultivated, all of 
which are divided into three distinct classes, 
namely the White, Red and Savoy. 

The White is far the best flavored and most 
suitable for general purposes. Its fame has be- 
come world wide, and is considered by some sec- 
ond to none in the vegetable kingdom. 

The Red is cultivated principally for pickling 
and ornamental cookery. 

The Savoy is a variety with wrinkled leaves. 
It is much grown for winter use, but is strongly 
flavored and less delicate than the white. 

Cabbage is plentiful the year 'round and when 
properly cooked, is nutritious and healthy. But 
it must be remembered that the quality of it as 
food depends largely on the nature of the cooking. 

BOILED CABBAGE. 

Remove the outside leaves, quarter, cut out the heart, 
wash thoroughly, blanch, lmmerge in cold water, riuisli 
cooking in boiling salt wat>r (the sauce pan should not be 
covered while cooking), drain. Serve very hot with molted 
butter poured over, or any sauce desired. 

Cabbage must be thoroughly done. When old blanch in two 
or three waters before boiling. When young, it is best 
when cooked in boiling meat stock, without blanching. 
CORNED BEEF WITH CABBAGE. 

Put a fat piece of corned beef to boll in hot water; clean, 
quarter and blanch the cabbage. When the corned beef is 
haif cooked put in the cabbage and let remain cooking until 
thoroughly done, drain. Serve on a platter with slices of 
the beef laid on top. HAM. BACON, SALT PORK. TONGUE 
or JOWL can be used instead of corned beef. The cabbage 



20 THE VEST POCKET 

is blanched to remove the strong odor and taste, which is 
even offensive to those that are fond of it. 

CABBAGE WITH FRIED APPLES. 

Chop plain boiled cabbage very fine, saute in butter, sea- 
son with salt and pepper. Peel some sour apples, core, cut 
in rings, roll in flour and fry in hot lard. Heap the cabbage 
in small pyramids on a hot platter. Serve with a slice of 
the apple on each pyramid. 

CABBAGE WITH PORK SAUSAGE. 

Fry the required number of small link pork sausages. 
Chop and saute plain boiled cabbage, season, heap on a hot 
platter, smooth down omelet shape, arrange the sausage 
endwise around the cabbage to form a border. Serve with 
poached eggs on top. 

CABBAGE STEWED IN CREAM. 

Cut the required amount of plain boiled cabbage in dice 
one inch square. Put in saucepan with a lump of butter, 
cover with sweet cream, simmer until the cream is reduced 
to half, season with salt and pepper. Serve in a covered 
vegetable dish. 

STUFFED CABBAGE, FERMIERE. 

Select a small young head of cabbage, cleau, pick off the 
leaves one by one, (being careful not to break them) until 
they are all removed from the heart; wash, trim the thick 
veins even with the leaf, steep in water (add a pinch of 
soda) for one hour. 

STUFFING: Chop very fine a green sweet pepper and a 
few shallots, saute in butter a few moments, moisten with 
a lii tie strong chicken broth, simmer for half hour, add 
some shredded bacon, and a ripe tomato cut in small pieces; 
cook fifteen minutes longer, add enough cracker meal to 
absorb the moisture, season with salt, pepper and a little 
grated nutmeg. 

Blanch the leaves in salted water, drain, press dry in a 
cloth, spread on the stuffing, roll up the leaves, arrange in 
saute pan, moisten with a little demi glaze. Cover with an 
oiled paper, simtner for one hour on back part of the range. 
Serve on a hot platter; garnish with a sprig of fried young 
parsley. 

STUFFED CABBAGE FOR GARNISH. 

Prepare the same as the foregoing, except use chicken 
farce for the stuffing; glaze. An excellent garnish for meat 
entrees. 

HOT SLAW, PLAIN. 

Pick off outside leaves, cut in quarters, remove the heart, 
shred, wash, steep in salt and water a few minutes, drain, 
boil with a ham-boue until thoroughly cooked, drain in a 
collander, take out ham-bone, simmer in sour cream, sea- 
son vrith butter, salt and pepper. Serve in a deep vegetable 
dish. 

HOT SLAW, GERMAN STYLE. 

Shred the cabbage very fine with a slaw cutter. Cut a 
piece of salt pork in small dice, mince a like amount of 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 21 

onion, mix and saute to a golden color. Add the cabbage 
(raw), moisten with a little strong consomme, cover the 
' pan and braise slowly for two hours (keep moist and stir 
occasionally while cooking). Season with Cayenne pepper, 
salt and a little vinegar. Serve as a vegetable or with 
sparer ibs, Frankfurt sausage, etc. 

COLE SLAW. 

Clean and shred ahead of young cabbage, steep in ice 

water until crisp. Drain and press dry. Sprinkle with a 

little fine sugar, season with salt, Cayenne pepper and a 

\ little malt vinegar. Serve on a lettuce leaf. Garnish with 

chopped parsley. 

CABBAGE SALAD, HOME STYLE. 
Prepare the cabbaga the same as for Cole Slaw. Make a 
boiled salad dressing in the following manner : Put equal 
parts of water and cider viuegar into a farina boiler. 
Add a little sugar, salt, paprica, chunk of butter and a 
pinch of mustard, cover and let cook thirty minutes. Beat 
some egg yolks, dilute with a little cold water, and stir 
briskly into the hot mixture ; remove from fire as soon as 
itcongeals. Bydegrees incorporate one-fourth its quantity 
, <>f rich sweet cream. Put in ice box to remain uutil cold; 
then mix with the cabbage and serve in a salad bowl. Gar- 
nish the top with a basket made of a hard boiled egg filled 
with chopped chives. 

CABBAGE SALAD, MAFONNAISK. 
The same as the foregoing, using mayonnaise instead of 
boiled salad dressing. Serve on salad plate. Garnish with 
fancy cut pickled beets, 
t CABBAGE SALAD. PLAIN. 

Shred, and chill the cabbage in ice water, drain and press 
dry. Mix with olive oil and vinegar, season with salt and 
a few drops of Tabasco sauce. Serve in small pyramids OD 
a curly lettuce leaf. Red cabbage can be prepared in the 
^same manner, and arranged alternately In pyramids with 
the white, making a very attractive dish. Shreds of ham 
and bacon are often fried and added to the above. 
> CABBAGK «'\-]\ FLEMISH STYLE. 

Chop the cabbage very line ; put into a deep saucepan 
with a lump of butter. Add a ham-bone, chopped onion, a 
faggot of parsley and a few pepper corns : braise thirty 
minutes. Moisten with the required amount of - 
white stock (to make the soup), let boll and shove back to 
simmer until the cabbage is cooked to a pulp. Thicken 
dour and water (whitewash); let boil until it becomes 
transparent. Remove the ham-bone and faggot, rub through 
a hair sieve. Season with pepper, salt and a glass of white 
wine. Serve with sippets of bread. 

SAUERKRAUT. 
Is a much esteemed German dish. The cab- 
bage is cut fine and allowed to ferment under 
pressure in brine made of its own juice and salt. 



22 THE VEST POCKET 

SAUERKRAUT, GERMAN STYLE. 

Wash the sauerkraut in cold water to remove the bad 
odor, drain and proceed the same as directed in Hot Slaw. 
German Style. Caraway seeds may be added if desired- 
SAUERKRAUT, AMERICAN STYLE. 

Wash, drain, press dry, braise in butter for two hours, 
moistening occasionally with a ladle-ful of consomme: 
thicken with grated raw potato. Add some chopped sour 
apples. Season with Cayenne pepper and salt. Serve in a 
deep vegetable dish. 

PICKLED RED CABBAGE. 

Shred the cabbage fine with a slaw cutter. Put into a stone 
jar in layers, sprinkle each layer with salt, let stand for 
forty-eight hours Drain off the salt liquor which has . 
f jrmed, and pour over a well-seasoned pickle of boiling 
vinegar. (Black pepper, cloves, mustard seed and sliced 
ginger root are the best for seasoning. ) When cold hermeti- 
cally seal the jar and store in a cool place. , 

CALAMINT. 

(Fr. Calament). (Ger. Kalaminth). 

A genus of perennial plant Calamintha of the . 
Mint family. Also called basil thyme The 
roots of this aromatic herb, when cut in small 
pieces and infused in alcohol, imparts a delicate 
violet odor ; used for flavoring pastries, des- 
serts, etc. 

CANTALOUP. 

(Fr. Cantaloup). (Ger. Cantaloupe Melonen). 

Takes its name from the castle Cantalupo, in 
the Marca d'Ancona, Italy, where they were first 
grown in Europe from seed imported from Ar- 
menia. It is a variety of the musk melon, having 
a yellowish or pale-green skin and reddish flesh 
when ripe. An error is often made by calling all ■ 
kinds of melon cantaloup. 

CANTALOUP TO SERVE. 
Select those having a pleasant sweet odor, yellowish skin, - 
and when picked the stem will break off close to the melon. 
Putin icebox to remain until thoroughly chilled. Cut in 
half, remove the seeds. Serve on a folded napkin. The 
old custom cf filling the cavity with ice is the subject of * 
severe criticism. To a connoisseur it is a gross insult, 
which is justly founded on the fact that the delicate flavor 
is entirely destroyed by the ice- 4 

CAPERS. 

(Fr. Capres). (Ger. Kapern). 

The caper plant Cap parts spinosa is a low 
shrub of Mediterranean countries cultivated in 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 23 

the south of Europe for its flower-buds, which are 
grayish-green and have a sharp aromatic flavor. 
When pickled in vinegar they are used as a con- 
diment and in making salads, sauces, etc. Capers 
are often substituted by nasturtium seeds and un- 
folded elder buds, which compare favorably in 
size and appearance, but not in flavor. 

CAPER SAUCE. 

Is used for boiled mutton, salt water, fish. etc. The stock 

is made into a white sauce, seasoned and the capers added. 

CARAWAY. 

(Fr. Carvi)- (Ger. Kummel). 

Is a biennial plant of the parsley family, Carum 
Carta. The seeds have an aromatic smell and a 
warm pungent taste. They are extensively used 
in German cookery for seasoning and also for 
flavoring liquors, confections, pastries, etc. The 
roots, which resemble the parsnip, were once a 
popular vegetable, but now are rarely used. 

CARDOON. 

(Fr. Cardon). (Ger. Karrtone). 

Is a large herbaceous plant Cynara Carduncu- 

lus of the aster family. Also called the prickly arti- 
choke. The thick fleshy stalks and ribs of the 
leaves are blanched and eaten by the Spanish and 
French as a vegetable. 

CARDOON WITH OX MARROW. 

Select the inner white stalks which are crisp and tender. 
Blanch in acidulated water, press dry, rub off the outside 
skin, cut in pieces three inches long, saute in butter, 
moisten with wbite stock, cover with an oiled paper and 
simmer until tender and the liquor is all evaporated. 
Season with white pepper, salt and a little lemon juice. 
Serve on fancy cut pieces of buttered toast. Garnish with 
slices of boiled ox marrow rolled in finely chopped sweet 
herbs. 

CARDOON SALAD. 

Select the young leaves. Blanch, press dry, put in a salad 
bowl that has been thoroughly rubbed with a clove of garlic. 
Dress with olive oil and vinegar. Season with salt and 
Cayenne pepper. Sarve in same bowl. 

CARROTS. 

(Fr. Carottes.) (Ger. Mohren oder Gelbe Ruben.) 

The common carrot is an umbelliferous plant 
of many varieties. The best known specie, Dau- 



24 THE VEST POCKET 

cus Carota yields in cultivation a reddish yellow 
and usually spindle shape edible root the first 
year. It is supposed to possess medicinal pro- 
perties; yet it is of less nutritive value than the 
potato, being largely composed of water, cellulose 
and saccharin matter. The famous carrot was 
considered a choice table vegetable by the ancient 
Greeks, and still retains iis popularity to such an 
extent that hardly a soup, sauce or stew would be 
considered properly prepared without its flavor. 
It is plentiful the year around and cannot be sur- 
passed as a vegetable for seasoning. 

BOILED CARROTS WITH WHITE SAUCE. 

Wash the required number of young carrots, scrape from 
the crown down, imrncrge in cold water, cut in dice half an 
inch square, or scoop out with a Parisienne cutter. Boil in 
salted water until tender, drain and simmer in a white sauce 
for twenty minutes. Season with salt, pepper, grated nut- 
meg and a little lemon juice. Serve in a deep vegetable 
dish. 

CARROTS. MAITRE D'HOTEL. 

Clean, boil whole in salted water until tender. Cut length. 

wise In quarters, saute in butter, season with salt, pepper 

and a little lemon juice. Arrange neatly on a platter, 

sprinkle with finely chopped parsley. Serve. 

CARROTS, A LA CREME. 

Clean, cut in slices half an inch thick. Parboil in salted 
water, drain. Simmer until tender in equal parts of rich 
cream and Bechamel sauce. Season with salt, white pepper 
and a little grated nutmeg, sprinkle with chopped parsley 
and serve in deep vegetable dish. 

CARROTS, POULETTE. 

Clean, cut In fancy shape with a vegetable scoop. Parboil, 
drain and simmer until tender in poulette sauce. Season 
with salt and a few drops of Tabasco sauce. Serve in paper 
cases or on fancy cut croutons. Garnish with chopped hard 
boiled eggs. 

CARROTS WITH FINE HERBS. 

Clean, cut in half lengthwise. Stamp out with a small 
column tube (about the size of macaroni), blanch. Mince 
some shallots, saute in butter, add the carrots, moisten with 
strong chicken broth, cover with an oiled paper, simmer 
until tender. Season, sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve 
in a deep vegetable dish. 

GLAZED CARROTS FOR GARNISH. 

Clean, scoop out with a small Parisienne cutter, blanch? 
put in a saute pan, cover with demi-glaze. Braise in a hot 
oven until tender, strain off the remaining sauce, return to 
fire in a clean saute pan. Sprinkle with a iittle powdered 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 2$ 

sugar, toss until quite dry and glossy. Use for garnishing 
meat entrees. 

MASHED CARROTS. 

Select young carrots, clean without scraping. Cut in 
slices, boil in salted water until tender, drain, mash through 
a fine sieve. Return to Are, slowly evaporate the moisture, 
finish with a chunk of butter and sweet cream. Season with 
salt and white pepper. Serve the same as mashed turnips, 
or with boiled beef. 

CARROTS SOUFFLE. 

Prepare the same as mashed carrots. Separate the re- 
quired number of fresh e^gs (one to a portion), beat the 
yolks and mix with the mashed carrots; whip the whites to 
a stiff froth, stir gent ly into the pulp. Put into paper cases, 
bake in a slow oven until it becomes a rich golden color. 
Serve on a folded napkin. 

PUREE OF CARROTS. 

Clean the required number of young carrots without 
scraping. Cut in slices, braise in butter with chopped shal- 
lots, sprig of celery, a ham bone and a few mixed spice^; 
add strong beef bouillon, let boil, shove back to simmer 
until the carrots are cooked to a pulp, remove the ham bone, 
thicken with flour and water or grated raw potatoes. Cook 
until it becomes transparent. Hub through n puree strainer, 
season with salt and white pepper. Serve with plain boiled 
barley in a side dish. 

FRIED YOUNG CARROTS. 

Select small young carrots of uniform size. Clean and 
submerge in boiling water. Rub off the outside skin with a 
clean cloth. Boil until tender in salted water, drain, and 
press dry. Season, roll in flour, fry in butter. Serve on 
fancy cut croutons. 

PICKLED CARROTS. 

Put plain boiled carrots (whole) into a stone jar, add 
some mixed spices, cover with vinegar. Use for garnishing 
salads, etc. 

CARROT AND BEET-ROOT SALAD. 
Arrange alternately slices of cold boiled carrots and beet- 
roots in a border around the edge of a platter. Fill center 
with finely shredded celery. Season and dress with olive 
oil and malt vinegar. Serve. 

CATCHUP OR CATSUP. 

(Fr. Catchup.) (Oer. Catchup.) 

Catchup was originally an East India pickle, 
called Kitjap. Now a popular sauce for meat, 
fish, etc. Prepared from walnuts, mushrooms 
and tomatoes. 

WALNUT CATCHUP 
Gather twenty pounds of green walnuts, pound them to a 
pulp, put into a flve-Kallon stone jar with one-half pound of 
ground ginger, one-fourth pound of chopped shallots, six 



26 THE VEST POCKET 

cloves of garlic, four bruised red pepper pods, one-fourth 
pound of ground cloves, one pound of salt Let macerate 
for four weeks in a warm place (stir every day). Then pour 
three gallons of boiling malt vinegar over them, let cool, 
strain through a fine cloth, bottle and cork tightly. Store 
in a dry place. 

MUSHROOM CATCHUP. 

Procure twenty pounds of full grown hothouse mush- 
rooms, trim off the lower part of the roots, shake out the 
sand (do not wasb or peel them). 

Pack in layers in a six-gallon stone jar with salt between 
each layer (using two pounds of salt). Let stand for six 
hours, then mash into a pulp with a wooden potato masher- 
Let stand for two days (stirring every six hours), then let 
stand without stirring In a warm place until a thick white 
scum rises to the top. 

Strain through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan, add 
four ounces of chopped ginger root, four ounces of crushed 
pepper corns, half pound mustard seed and one ounce of 
whole mace. Boil up gently, pour into a clean stone jug. tie 
a thin piece of cheese cloth over top and let steep six months 
in a cool place. Then heat it again by setting the jug in a 
hot water bath. Strain through a muslin bag and bottle 
for use. 

TOMATO CATCHUP. 

Select twenty pounds of freshly picked ripe tomatoes. 
"Wash, cut in four, put in a clean saucepan and cook until 
reduced to one-half. Rub through a fine sieve, return to 
the fire, add two quarts of elder vinegar, one ounce of 
groun.l cloves, one ounce of ground allspice, three ounces 
of ground white pepper, and one ounce of ground cinnamon. 
Simmer for four hours, remove from fire, add three pounds 
of confectioners' glucose- Bottle while hot, being careful 
to cork very tightly. Store in a cool place. To prevent fer- 
mentation, which is somewhat troublescme, add ten grains 
of salicylic acid. 

CAULIFLOWER. 

(Fr. Chou-fleur.) (Ger. Blumenkohl.) 

Cauliflower is a fleshy compact edible head, 
formed by the young flowers of a cultivated var- 
iety of cabbage, Brassica oieracea. 

Broccoli and cauliflower differ so little in ap- 
pearance that one is often mistaken for the other. 
Yet the latter no doubt is the more succulent and 
possesses the best flavor. They are, however, 
prepared and cooked the same. 

Cauliflower is cultivated to a perfection by our 
market gardeners, who are well paid for their 
pains. It is in season from June to October and 
from February to April. When purchasing, 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 27 

select the heads that are compact, clear snowy 
white and free from worms. 

BOILED CAULIFLOWER. 

Pick off the leaves, neatly trim the axle close to the head, 
wash thoroughly in cold water, and steep in salted water 
for two hours before cooking; drain, wipe dry. Cut a lemon 
in half, rub over the head to keep it white, boil in salted 
water until tender. Remove from Are and let stand in 
same water until ready to serve; drain and serve in a deep 
vegetable dish, with drawn butter, Hollandaise or cream 
sauce poured over. 

CAULIFLOWER, VINAIGRETTE. 

Serve cold boiled cauliflower on a lettuce leaf with vin- 
aigrette sauce; garnish with gherkins cut fan shape. 
CAULIFLOWER SALAD. 

Pick cold boiled cauliflower apart, serve in a salad bow] 
with French dressing. 

CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN. 

Boil in the usual way, drain, cut off axle close to head, 
place in gratin dish, pour rioh Bechamel sauce over sprinkle 
with grated American cheese, fresh bread crumbs and little 
chunks of butter. Bake until it becomes a rich brown 
color; serve in same dish. 

CAULIFLOWER, MAYONNAISE. 

Serve cold boiled cauliflower on a lettuce leaf with Mayon- 
naise dressing. Garnish with fancy cut pickled beets. 
CAULIFLOWER FRIED IN BATTER. 

Trim, wash, boll until tender in salted water, drain, wipe 
dry with a cloth, pick off the small branches, seast n with 
salt and while pepper, roll in flour, dip in batter, fry in hot 
fat. dniln. Serve on folded napkin. Garnish with fried 
young parsley. 

CAULIFLOWER FOR GARNISH. 

Trim, wash, and boll the heads until tender in malted 
water. Pick the miuiII branche* apart, drain, press dry in a 
cloth, dip in meat glaze and use to garnish entrees- 
CAULIFLOWER, ITALIAN. 

Serve plain boiled cauliflower in a border of rice, with 
white Italian sauce poured over. 

CAULIFLOWER CREAM SOUP. 

Trim, wash, blanch In salted water, drain, and finish 
cooking In strong white broth; remove the cauliflower when 
done- Prepare a mirepoix of butter, a sprig of ce'ery, bay 
leaves, carrot, chopped shallots and flour, let braise slowiy 
for fifteen minutes without browning; add broth, stirring 
vigorously to make it smooth; let boil, shove back to sim- 
mer one hour. Strain, add one-fourth sweet cream, season 
with salt, Cayenne pepper and grated nutmeg; pick the 
cauliflower into small bits, add to the soup and serve with 
slices of buttered toast separate. 



■28 THE VEST POCKET 

CELERIAC. 

(Fr. Celeri-rave.) (Ger. Seller ie-Knolle.) 

Is a species of celery Afium graveolens ra^a- 
ceurn, having a globe shaped edible root, com- 
monly called the turnip-rooted celery. The seed 
of this plant is imported from Hamburg, and it is 
quite extensively cultivated in this country, being 
highly favored by the Germans as a salad, also 
for seasoning soups, etc. Celeriac is in season 
from October to May. 

BOILED CELERIAC, MELTED BUTTER. 

Select smooth young roots, peel off the outside skin, cut 
in quarters, boil in salt water until tender. Drain, slice, 
season and serve in a deep vegetable dish with drawn butter 
poured over. 

CELERIAC SALAD, GERMAN STYLE. 

Prepare and boil the same as directed in the foregoing. 
Drain, press dry, and put away to remain until cold. Rub 
a salad bowl with a clove of garlic, slice in the boiled celer- 
iac, season with salt and a little Cayenne pepper, dress with 
olive oil and vinegar. Serve in the same bowl. Garni«h 
the top with slices of hard boiled eggs. 

CELERY. 

( Fr. Celeri. ) ( Ger. Sellerie.) 

Is an aromatic plant of the parsley family 
Afium graveolens, cultivated principally for the 
stalks, which are blanched during growth by heap- 
ing the earth around them as they spring above 
the ground. Celery has become such an import- 
ant article of food that it is now indispensable. 

The outer stalks are picked off, leaving only 
the inner tongue or "heart", which is chilled and 
eaten raw as a relish. The remaining stalks that 
are not suitable to serve as a relish, can be 
used for soups, salads, and prepared in various 
ways as a vegetable. (See salads). Celery is in 
season from July to March. The home grown is 
considered the best flavored, yet the Michigan is 
prefered by some. The California celery grows 
very large, but is fibrous and does not possess the 
delicate flavor that characterizes the others. 

TO PREPARE CELERY FOR A RELISH. 
Cutoff the upper leaves, trim the bottom or root neatly 
around (being careful not to cut away more than is neces- 
sary to remove the portion that is discolored), pick off the 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 20. 

outer stalks until only the heart remains, wash them thor- 
oughly, then steep in ice water until they are crisp and 
tender. The outer stalks should be tied in little bundles 
and sent to the kitchen, to be used for salads, soups, etc. 

Serve the hearts on a relish dish covered with shaved ice, 

or on the bread and butter plates when used for a banquet. 

FRIZZLED CELERY FOR SALADS, ETC. 

Select the best of the outer stalks, wash, cut in pieces two 
inches long, place each piece between a clothes pin, shred 
both ends very fine with a sharp knife, set aside to steep 
one hour in ice water, when they will be found to be a very 
attractive garnish for salads. 

BOILED CELERY, WHITE SAUCE. 

Cut outer stalks in pieces three inches long, wash, and 
steep in salt water for two hours. Drain and boil In white 
broth until tender, remove from the fire, strain off the broth, 
thicken with roux, season, arrauge the celery in a deep dish, 
pour over the sauce. Serve. 

CREAM OF CELERY. COMTESSE. 

Cut the celery In small pieces, wash, braise with mirepoix 
in butter for fifteen minutes, add sufficient flour to thicken 
the soup, slowly incorporate the required amount of strong 
chicken broth, boil up and shove back to simmer for three 
hours, strain through a fine hair sieve. Season with salt, 
white pepper, and a little nutmeg. Finish with a liaison 
of egg yolks, and sweet cream. Serve with croutons. 
CELERY SALAD. 

Cut the tender part of the outer stalks in dice half an inch 
square, wash on a colander, steep In ice water for one hour, 
drain, press dry, put into a salad bowl, season with salt and 
a few drops of Tabasco sauce. Dress with olive oil and 
malt vinegar. Serve on curly lettuce leaves. Garnish 
with water-cress and beets cut in fancy shape. 
CELERY MAYONNAISE. 

Prepare the celery the same as in the foregoing. Season 
and mix with Mayonnaise. Serve in small pyramids with 
some of the Mayonnaiso poured over. Garnish top with 
capers. 

STEWED CELERY IN GRAVY. 

Cut the outer stalks in small pieces, wash and blanch in 
salt and water. Return to fire In clean sauce pan, cover 
with gravy and let simmer until tender. Season with Cay- 
enne pepper and salt. Servo as a vegetable or with meat 
entrees. 

CHERVIL. 
(Fr. Carfeuil.) (Ger. Kerbel.) 

Is a garden herb, Anthriscus Cerefolium of 
the parsley family, with pinnately divided leaves 
which are used for seasoning soups, salads and 
for flavoring vinegar. The root of one of the 
species closely resembles the carrot and is said to 



30 THE VEST POCKET 

be good to eat, yet it has never become very pop- 
ular. 

CHESTNUTS. 

(Fr. Chat aig ne on Marron.) (Ger. Kastanie.) 

Is an edible nut of a forest tree Castanea vesca 
of Europe and America. The nuts grow in clus- 
ters, two or three enclosed in a prickly burr, 
which opens after a few autumn frosts. Then the 
nuts can be easily gathered by slightly shaking 
the tree. The Spanish, French and Italian 
chestnuts (Marron) grow much larger than the 
American, and are more suitable for the various 
culinary purposes to which they are adapted, yet 
they are not as delicate and sweet for eating raw. 

The marron, when preserved in syrup, is ex- 
tensively used in confections, pastries and des- 
serts, being the important feature of the famous 
Nesselrode Pudding. 

CHESTNUTS. HOW TO PREPARE. 

Make two incisions, crossing each other on the rounding 
side of the chestnut, with the sharp point of a knife. Then 
put the nuts on a shallow baking sheet, and set them on the 
shelf of the range until the shell begins to dry and cur! away 
from the meat. Pull off the shell and rub the nut with a 
coarse kitchen towel to remove the tissue or skin. Put in a 
cool dry place and use when needed. 

BOILED CHESTNUTS. 

Shell and rub off the skin of the required number of 
chestnuts. Put them, after picking out the discolored and 
wormy ones, into a cheese-cloth sack. Boil in salt water 
until tender, pour off the water and remove tbe chestnuts 
from sack. Simmer in sweet cream for fifteen minutes, 
season with butter, salt and white pepper. Serve as a veg- 
etable in the usual way. 

CHESTNUT STUFFING. 

After cleaning the chestnuts, boil them to a pulp in sweet 
cream: add enough fresh bread crumbs to absorb the mois- 
ture. Season with plenty of good butter, salt and white 
pepper. An excellent stuffing for game and poultry. 
CHESTNUT GARNISH CHIPOLATA. 

Pick out small sound chestnuts, clean in the usual way, 
put into a cheese-cloth sack and boll until soft (but not 
broken), drain, and remove from the sack. Cut out a like 
number of carrots, the same size of the chestnuts, with a 
Parisian cutter; boil in salt water, drain and press dry. 
Boil the same amount of Ohipolata sausage; remove the 
skin. Put all together in a sauce pan, cover with chicken 
glaze (that has been diluted and slightly thickened), sim- 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 31 

mer for twenty minutes, season with salt, Cayenne pepper 
and grated nutmeg. Use for garnishing meat entrees, etc 
CHESTNUT SALAD. 
(See Nut Salads.) 

CHICK-PEAS. 

(Fr. Pois-Chiche.) (Ger. Kichererbsen.) 

Is the seed of a leguminous plant, Cicer arieti- 
num of Asia, Africa, and Southern Europe. This 
nutritive little vegetable, the cultivation of which 
in Mediterranean countries dates from a very 
early period, is an important article in Egyptian 

1 and Spanish cookery. 

When roasted they are the common "parched 
pulse," the chief food of travelers while crossing 

• the vast desert tracts of the far East. They are 
also one of the many ingredients used in the 
preparation of the native Spanish dish, Olla- 
podrida. The harmonizing nature of these peas 
is such that they are frequently employed by 
the French in many of their ragouts, yet they are 

\ not considered consistent enough to constitute a 
dish in themselves. 

CHICORY. 

. (Fr. Chicoree.) (Ger. Cichorie.) 

Is a perennial herb, Ctchorium Intybus, of the 

aster family, extensively cultivated in Europe, 
Asia, and the United States. Its finely divided 
and much curled leaves, when blanched in 
growth, make an excellent autumn and winter 
, salad. The roasted and pulverized roots are used 
for adulterating coffee. 

CHICORY SALAD. 
! Select the well blanched heads, trim off the green leaves, 
pick apart, wash thoroughly, let steep in salt water for an 
hour, then drain and press dry in a clean clott?. Rub the 
salad bowl with a clove of garlic, put in the chicory, 
season with salt and Cayenne pepper. Pour on some olivo 
oil, mix. add a few drops of malt vinegar. Serve in same 
bowl. This salad is much esteemed by the French. 

CHIVES OR CIVES. 

(Fr. Cives.) (Ger. Schnittlauch.) 

The chive is a small bulbous plant, Allium 
» Sc/iocnoprasum, of the onion tribe, which is 



32 THE VEST POCKET 

propagated by dividing the root. The numerous 
leaves are slender, awl-shaped, and grow from 
four to six inches long. They impart a very 
pleasant onion flavor to soups, salads, cheese, etc. 

Chives appear on the market very early in the 
spring, planted in small square boxes filled with 
rich soil, they will grow up several times before 
their virtue is destroyed, if placed near a window 
and treated like a potted plant. (Care should be 
taken in gathering to cut the leaves close to the 
root.) 

The stew of rabbit, venison, game, etc., called 
"Civet," is highly seasoned with chives, from 
which feature they are so named. 
CINNAMON. 

(F-\ Cannelle.) {Ger. Zimmt.) 

Is the inner bark of the shoots of the Cinna- 
rnomam Zeylanicum, a tree cultivated in Ceylon, 
Sumatra and Borneo. It has an aromatic and 
slightly pungent flavor, and is largely used in , 
pastries, confections, cordials, etc. It is safe to 
say that little pure Ceylon cinnamon reaches the 
consumer without being adulterated with cassia / 
lignea, Chinese cinnamon. 

CLOVES. 

(Fr. Clous des girofles.) (Ger. Nelken.) 

Is the unexpanded flower buds of the clove 
tree, Eugenia caryofihyllata, which is culti- 
vated in Zanzibar, Brazil and the West In- 
dies. The use of this pungent aromatic spice, 
which contains preservative power, has become 
so universally known that it is now indispensable 
in pickling and other culinary operations. The 
name "clove" is taken from the Latin Clovus 
(a nail), which it closely resembles. It is also , 
applied to other articles, as a clove of garlic, 
which means one of the small bulbs; and a clove } 
cheese, about eight pounds. "\ 

CORN. (Indian.) 

( Fr. Mais.) ( Ger. Korn oder Mais. ) 

Maize or Indian corn is a large species of Amer- *• 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 33 

ican cereal grass of the genus Zae Mays. It 
yields when ripe numerous hard starchy kernels 
on a woody cob. Maize is extensively cultivated 
over the greater part of America and to some ex- 
tent in Europe, Asia and Africa. 

It may be truthfully said that there are few 
plants of which the uses are more various than 
Indian corn, and few which are of greater im- 
portance to man. 

In Europe the word "corn" is applied to all 
kinds of grain, as wheat, rye, barley, etc. But 
in the United States it has been appropriated to 
Maize (Indian corn). 

The ripe seed of the field varieties is made into 
samp, hulled corn, hominy grits, yellow and 
white Indian meal, corn starch, etc., each of 
which contains enough nutritive value to consti- 
tute an entire meal, if properly cooked. 

Pop-corn is a small variety, grown principally 
for popping. The kernels contain an abundance 
of oil, which expands when heated over a hot 
fire, causing the seed coating to explode, and the 
inside of the kernel to puff out in a snowy white 
mass several times its natural size. 

The garden variety, cultivated for eating green, 
is quite distinct from the others, being more rich 

• in sugar and less starchy. The unmatured kernels 
when prepared and cooked in different ways form 
the excellent vegetable, which is dear to the heart 
of every true American. Green corn appears on 
the market about June 15th, and continues until 
September, during which time it is preserved for 
winter use by canning, and is so successfully done 
that it is frequently better than the fresh. In 

b buying, select the freshly picked and closely ker- 
neled ears, which have a snowy-white appear- 
ance and in the milky state ; the latter feature 
can be easily determined by slightly pressing one 
of the kernels with the thumb nail. If a starchy 
milk oozes out and the corn possesses the other 

Equalities, it is in the pink of condition. 



34 THE VEST POCKET 

BOILED GREEN CORN ON THE -COB. 

Select the corn as directed in the foregoing. Remove the 
husks, pick off the silk, trim the ends neatly with a sharp 
knife. Go over each ear with a clean scrubbing brush to 
be sure the remaining silk is all removed from between the 
kernels. Plunge tbe corn into a saucepan of boiling salt 
water, cook from fifteen to twenty minutes. Take up and 
serve on a folded napkin, with butter, pepper and salt sep- 
arate . 

If a large quantity is to be cooked, have several saucepans 
in readiness so that when the contents of oue is served 
another will be ready. In tuis way the corn does not be- 
come water-soaked or over-cooked. It is a good idea to add a 
little milk to the water, if the cobs are dark and not closely 
kerneled, which is frequently the case early In the season. 
STEWED GREEN CORN IN CREAM. 

Clean and 6ilk the corn in the usual way. Plunge into 
boiling salt water, cook eitcht minutes, remove from the 
Are, wrap in a clean cloth and let remain until it becomes 
cool; then shave off the kernels with a dull knife. Put them 
in a shallow saucepan, cover with rich cream, simmer for 
twenty minutes. Season with butter, salt and a little white 
pepper. Serve in a deep vegetable dish. 

SUCCOTASH. (Corn and Beans.) 

Prepare the corn as directed in the foregoing, except 
when it is put Into the saucepan to simmer, add one-fifth 
its quantity of plain boiled Lima beans. (See Lima Beuns> 
Season and serve as a vegetable. 

GREEN CORN AU GRATIN. 

Prepare and cook the corn ten minutes In boiling salt 
water, wrap in a cloth; when cool, shave off the kernels, put 
them in a saute pan, add a little strong Bechamel sauce, 
simmer for ten minutes or until it is thoroughly heated. 
Season, put in gratin dishes, sprinkle top with fresh bread 
crumbs and small bits of butter. Bake in a hot oven until 
they are a rich brown color. Serve while hot in same dish. 

GREEN CORN FRITTERS. 
Select, husk and silk the corn in the usual way. Rasp off 
the kernels with a coarse cheese grater or a regular "corn 
rasp." Put the pulp in a mixing bowl with one^half its 
quantity of sweet milk, a little salt and sugar. Add enough 
flour and the proper amount of baking powder to make it 
the consistency of thick pancake batter. Beat in a few raw 
eggs, one at a time. Fry in shallow grease. Sprinkle 
with powdered sugar and serve on a folded napkin with a 
pot of maple syrup separate. 

CORN OYSTERS. 
Rasp off the kernels as directed in Corn Fritters. Put the 
pulp into a mixing bowl, beat in a few raw eggs, salt, mix 
in equal parts of flour and fine cracker crumbs (add a little 
baking powder) to make it the consistency of thick fritter 
batter. Fry in shallow grease, about the size of a half dol- 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 35 

lar. Serve as an entree or use to garnish chicken Mary- 
land, etc. 

CREAM OF GREEN CORN. 

Prepare the required amount of green corn, rasp off the 
kernels. Make a white mirepoix of one leek cut in small 
pieces, a faggot of parsley, a few pepper corns, blade of 
mace, and a chunk of butter. Put them in a deep sauce- 
pan, braise (but do not brown) fifteen minutes, then add the 
rasped corn and sufficient strong white stock to make the 
soup. Boil up and shove back to simmer for one hour. 
When done remove the faggot and rub through a puree 
sieve. Return to fire in a clean saucepan, add one-fourth 
its quantity of Bechamel sauce, simmer gently for a few 
minutes longer. Season with salt and Cayenne pepper. 
Finish with a liaison of egg yolks and sweet cream. Serve 
In soup tureen, with slices of buttered toast separate. 

QUEEN CORN CHOWDER, NEW ENGLAND STYLE. 

Rasp off the kernels of several ears of freshly gathered 
green corn. Cut a piece of salt pork in small dice, put them 
into a saucepan with a like amount of minced onions, braise 
for a quarter of an hour over a slow fire. Cover with strong 
white stock, simmer thirty minutes and remove from the 
fire Peel and cut a number of new potatoes In thin slices 
with a Saratoga chip machine. Rinse them in cold water, 
drain and shake in a pan of flour until they are completely 
covered. Place a layer of the potatoes on the bottom of a 
French casserole (a stone butter jar will do if a casserole is 
not handy), then a layer of the corn pulp, and a ladief ul of 
the minced and cooked onions and salt pork. Season and 
sprinkle each layer with flue cracker meal and chopped 
young parsley. Continue in this manner until all the In- 
gredients are used up. Add enough white broth to cover 
the chowder. Put on the lid and bake in a slow oven for 
two hours. Serve in same dish if possible, with cheese 
crackers separate. 

GRKEN CORN AND TOMATOES. 

Rasp off the kernels of the required amount of green corn, 
put them in a saucepan, add a like amount of peeled ripe 
tomatoes, cut in dice- Simmer until the juice is nearly all 
evaporated. Season with salt, Cayenne pepper and a chunk 
of butter. Serve on fancy cut slice of buttered toast. 
8TEAMKD GREEN CORN ON THE EAR. 

Gather the corn when in the milky state. Uomove the 
outside husks only; then pull back the remaining ones and 
carefully pick out all the silk; trim off the small end. re- 
place the husks to completely cover the ear. Wind a small 
cord around them to hold the husks in plnco. Steam for 
twenty-five minutes over a kettle of boiling salt and water. 
Remove the husks. Servo immediately covered in a folded 
napkin. Butter, salt and pepper separate. This method is 
much practiced in the Southern states. 

ROASTED GREKN COUN ON THE EAR. 

Prepare the ears the same as for steaming. Dig a hole In 



36 THE VEST POCKET 

a bed of hot wood ashes, put in the corn and roast for thirty 
or forty minutes. Remove, shake off the ashes, pull away 
the husks. Serve in the usual way. Green corn is prepared 
in this way for camping parties and clam bakes. 
SAMP. 

Samp is the broken kernels of Indian corn. This process 
was originated by the Massachusetts Indians, who cracked 
the parched kernels between two stones aud called it 
"Saupac." 

The commercial article now known as samp is simply 
coarse hominy. 

BOILED SAMP. (Breakfast Cereal.) 

Procure freshly prepared samp, wash ami soak in cold 
water over night. In the morning, drain, put in a farina 
boiler or steamjacket kettle, cover with fresh water, add a 
little salt and cook slowly for two hours, stir occasionally 
and add more water if necessary to make it of the right 
consistency. Serve as a breakfast cereal with sugar and 
cream. 

FRIED SAMP. 

Plain boll the samp as in the foregoing; when done stir in 
one-fifth its quantity of wheat Hour, cook a few minutes 
longer, remove from the fire, turn out into square cake tins, 
put away to got cold; then cut in slices half an inch thick, 
roll in flour and fry very brown in shallow grease. Serve 
on folded napkin, with maple syrup separate. 

BOILED HOMINY GRITS. (Breakfast Cereal.) 

Blft the hominy through a coarse sieve, wash in cold 
water, drain. Fill a saucepan (the required size) half full 
of water, salt; when the water boils add the hominy grits, 
stir briskly to prevent its becoming lumpy. Shove back to 
cook slowly for three hours. Should it become too thick add 
a little more water. Serve with sugar and cream separate. 
FRIED HOMINY GRITS. 

Plain boil the hominy; when nearly done stir in one-fifth 
its quantity of wheat Hour, cook a little longer, pour into a 
square mold, put away to get cold. Cut in slices, fry brown 
in shallow grease. Servo it neatly arranged on a folded 
nai kin. with maple syrup separate. Hominy is often pre- 
pared this way and served as a garnish' with roasts, wild 
duck, etc. 

INDIAN MEAL MUSH. 

Is prepared, cooked and served the same way as Boiled 
Hominy Grits. Yellowor white Indian meal may be used, 
lnciluu meal mush and milk is a very popular dish among 
country people who often prefer it to a more substantial 
meal for Sunday supper. 

FRIED INDIAN MEAL MUSH. 

Prepare and cook the same as Fried Hominy Grits; don't 
forget to add a little flour before turning It out into the 
molds. The nature of Indian corn is such that it con- 
tains no gluten, therefore in cooking samp, hominy grits . 
and Indian meal mush for frying, it is absol"»ely necessary 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 37 

to add a little wheat Hour to keep it from breaking up and 
becoming troublesome to fry. This true American dish is 
many times spoiled by European cooks, who insist that it 
should be breaded before it can bo properly fried. 

HULLED CORN. 

The white variety of held corn is usually selected for this 

purpose. The hulls are removed by macerating the whole 

kernels in a weak lye made of hardwood ashes. It is then 

thoroughly washed in several waters. 

BOILED HULLED CORN. 

Put the freshly prepared hulled corn into a farina boiler 

or a steamjacket kettle, cover with sweet milk and cook for 

eight hours. As the milk evaporates add more. Season 

1 with pepper, salt and butter. Serve In a deep vegetable 

dish. 

CORN SALAD. (Lamb's Lettuce). 

» (Fr. Mache.) (Ger. Feld-Salat oder Lammerlattlch.) 

This is an annual salad plant Vcderianella 
olitoria, that grows wild in the grain fields of 
Europe. It is also extensively cultivated and 
used in winter and early spring as a substitute for 
lettuce. Wild Corn Salad makes an excellent 
► green when cooked like spinach. 

CRESS. (Water). 

(Fr. Cresson defontain^. (Ger. IVasser-Kresse). 
\ 

Is a perennial salad plant of the species Nastur- 
tium officinale, which grows wild on the banks of 
small streams and in moist places. The leaves 
* have a slightly pungent and yet pleasant taste. 
This plant has the distinction of possessing a 
flavor that is agreeable to almost everyone. 

CRESS. (Garden or Pepper). 

(Fr. Cresson de jar din). (Gter. Garten Krcsse). 

} This species, Lepidium sativum, is said to have 
been first cultivated in Germany about the begin- 

j ning of the sixteenth century; the continuation of 
which has been so successful that now many 
gardeners make a specialty of growing Cress to 

i» supply the market the year 'round. 

The leaves grow large, tender and delicately 
flavored, which makes it in every respect super- 

.4 ior to Water Cress. In order to have a protracted 
crop it is necessary to sow a new lot of seed every 



38 THE VEST POCKET 

week, as it matures very rapidly and is useful 
only when young. 

CRESS SALAD. 

Procure freshly gathered garden or water cress. Cut off 
the coarse stalks, pick out the wilted leaves, wash in cold 
water, drain, press dry in a clean towel. Prepare a French 
salad dressing without using much oil. Put the cress into 
a bowl, season, mix in the dressing. Garnish with slices of 
hard boiled eggs. Serve in same bowl. 

CRESS FOR GARNISHING. 

Garden cress is most suitable for this purpose. Cut the 
band or cord that holds the bunches together. Pick out the 
dead and discolored leaves. Wash and steep in cold water 
until it becomes crisp. Then tie about three or four sprigs 
in a bunch with white thread, cut off the lower part of 
sialks to make them of equal length, set aside in cold water 
until they are needed. 

CRESS BUTTER. 

Wash a few bunches of cress. Pick off the leaves, press 
dry and chop them very One. Put a lump of butter in a 
mixing bowl, work with the hand until it becomes waxy. 
Put in the chopped cress, add a little lemon juice and a 
small amount of sweet paprica; mix thoroughly. Slide a 
star tube into an ornamenting sack, put in the butter, 
gather in the top and lay aside. 

Pick off some large green cress leaves, arrange them in 
clusters of three, (like clover leaves), on a sheet of wax 
paper with the stems toward the center and the leaves 
slightly overlapping each other. Then force the butter out . 
through the tube in small stars or rosettes upon the center ' 
of the leaves making a complete little flower. Put in ice- 
box to remain until cold, use when needed to garnish fish 
entrees, etc. 

CUCUMBERS. 

(Fr. Concombres). (Ger. Garken). 

Is a creeping garden plant of numerous species 
of the genus Cucumis sativus. It is a native of 
southern Asia but has been cultivated from a very 
early period in all civilized countries. The green 
fruit is usually eaten raw as a salad, or pickled 
when they are small; yet they can be prepared 
and cooked in various ways. Among the best ' 
known varieties for salad are the Telegraph, 
Long Green, Giant of Arnstadt, Swan-Neck and 
White Spine. The latter is by far the best flav- 
ored and most suitable for the table. Many of 
these varieties are grown in hothouses, therefore 
cucumbers are in reason the year 'round. For 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 39 

pickling we have the Green Prolific, Westfield 
Pickles, Fordhook, Early Clusters, Gherkins, etc. 
The word "Gherkin" is applied to all kinds of 
small cucumbers pickled, but it properly belongs 
to a small prickly variety. Cucumbers are best 
when freshly picked from the vine; then with 
plenty of olive oil, they may be eaten with im- 
punity; but when they are thrown around the 
market for a number of days and have become 
wilted they are apt to cause harmful results. 

CUCUMBERS FOR RELISH. 

Select freshly picked cucumbers that arc from eight to 
ten inches long, cut away the bitter end, pare off the skin 
deep enough to remove the green portion, score lengthwise 
with the tines of a table fork. Put them in an earthen 
bowl and freely sprinkle with salt. Put in ice-box to re- 
main two or three hours before they are served, then rinse 
them in ice-water, press dry, cut in thin slices and serve 
with French salad dressing separate. 

This is the proper way to prepare cucumbers to serve 
with nsh. 

CUCUMBER SALAD. (1). 

Prepare the cucumbers as directed for Relish, cut in slices 
one-fourth inch thick. Rub the salad bowl with a clove of 
garlic, put in the cucumbers. Prepare the dressing by rub- 
bing the yolk of a hard boiled egtf with the yolk of a raw 
one, add a few drops of Tabasco sauce and slowly incorpor- 
ate some olive oil, vinegar and. lastly, the required amount 
of salt to season the salad; mix the dressing with the cu- 
cumbers. Serve m same bowl. 

CL CUMBER SALAD. (2). 

Prepare the cucumbers in the usual way. Cut in slices 
half Inch thick, press dry in a clean towel. 

Dressing: Blanch some Brazil nuts, pound them t) a 
smooth paste, add a like amount of fresh bread crumbs, a 
clove of garlic chopped fine. Cayenne pepper, salt and suffi- 
cient sweetcreamto make it the consistency of mayonnaise. 
Rub through a fine sieve, finish with a little lemon juice. 

Mix with the cucumbers, dish on curly lettuce leaves, 
garnish top with capers. Serve- 

CUCUMBER SALAD. (3). 
Pare several small cucumbers, cut away the bitter end, 
slice very thin, put in an earthen bowl, sprinkle with salt, 
set aside to marinade for several hours, drain off the liquor, 
press between two plates until they are quite dry. Return 
them to the bowl adding a handful of chopped chives, and 
a like amount of sliced cold boiled potatoes. Mix with 
thick sour cream, season with sweet paprica and a little 



40 THE VEST POCKET 

more salt if necessary. Dish on a salad plate ; garnish with 
a few sprigs of garden cress. Serre. 

CUCUMBER AND TOMATO SALAD. 

Arrange alternately slices of cu'-iiiiibers and tomatoes 
overlapping each other in a wreath around the border of a 
salad plate. Fill center with garden, cress. Poor over 
French salad dressing. Serve. 

CUCUMBER AND GREEN ONION SALAD. 

Prepare the cucumbers as directed for Relish. Slice them 
very thin, add some finely shredded green onions, season 
with salt and Cayenne pepper. Dress with olive oil and 
vinegar. Serve on salad p'.ate. 

STUFFED CUCUMBERS. 

Select several green cucumbers about six inches long, cut 
off the bitter end, pare and steep in cold salt water until 
they become crisp. Then insert a column tube into each 
end far enough to have the incision meet. Push out the 
center. Fill the cavity with chicken or veal farce. Stop 
up the ends with n portion of the heart. Roll each cucum- 
ber separate in an oiled paper. Arrange in a saucepan 
moisten with white broth, put on cover, braise in a slow 
oven for forty minutes. Glaze and serve as an entree, or 
cut in slices and use for garnishing. Game, lobster or crab 
farce can be substituted for the chicken or veal. 

BRAIDED CUCUMBERS WITH OX MARROW. 

Prepare the cucumbers the same as for stuffing, except 
insert a long piece of ox marrow instead of the farce meat. 
Stop up the ends, wrap each one separate in a piece of 
cheese cloth. Braise until tender. Glaze and serve on a 
hot platter; garnish with slices of lemon dipped in finely 
chopped parsley. 

CUCUMBERS FOR GARNISH. 

Select small thick gherkins. Pare, cut in quarters length- 
wise, dig out the seeds, blanch in salt water, drain, press 
dry. sprinkle with a little powdered sugar, saute in butter 
until they are a golden color. Season with salt and < ay- 
enne pepper. Tae cucumbers become transparent tvnsn 
prepared thio way. making a very nice garnish for dishes 
cooked Flemish style. 

FRIED CUCUMBERS. 

Pare a large cucumber, cut in slices about three-fourths 
of an Inch thick, remove the seeds with a column tube 
leaving the slice in the form of a ring. Steep in cold salt 
water one hour. Drain, press dry, season, roll in flour, fry 
in deep grease until they are done. Serve on a, fo'ded nap- 
kin. Garnish with a sprig of fried parsley on each ring. 
DILL PICKLES. 

Select medium sized cucumber pickles (about five inches 
long'. Steep them in cold water over night. In the morn- 
ing drain off the water, pack in layers in a clean oak bairel 
with a sprig of dill and wild grape leaves between each 
layer. Cover with a salt brine that is strong enough to bear 
up an egg. Store in a cool place for a month before using. 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 41 

GHERKINS. (Sour). 

Wash a thousand small gherkins, put them into a clean 
oak tub. cover with a sail brine that will bear up an egg, 
add four ounces of powdered alum: let them marinade in 
the brine for three days. Heat to the boiling point three 
gallons of cider vinegar diluted with three quarts of water, 
add one-fourth of pound each whole allspice, cloves, stick 
cinnamon and three ounces of white mustard Feed. Drain 
off the salt brine from pickles, put them into stone jars add 
a few small Mexican red peppers. Pour on the boiling 
spiced vinegar. Cover and store in a cool place for a few 
days, when they will be ready for use. 

GHERKINS. (Sweet). 

Prepare the same as for sour gherkins, except add seven 
pounds of light brown sugar to the vinegar when it is being 
boiled. 

CURRY. 

(Fr, Cai-i). (Ger. Pulcerisiries Gewurze (au» Ostindien). 

Curry-powder is a West India condiment com- 
posed of pulverized Cayenne pepper, salt, cinna- 
mon, cloves, ginger-root, cardamons, onions, 
garlic, coriander-seed, cocoanut, tumeric, etc. It 
is used for making stews of meat, fish, vegetables, 
etc., in India and elsewhere. 

DANDELION. 

(Fr. Dent-de-lion ow Pissenlit), (Ger. Lotoenzahn). 

The wild dandelion is a common hardy peren- 
nial plant, Taraxacum officinale, which grows 
in profusion on lawns and pastures. Each plant 
bears a compact yellow flower. The deeply 
notched leaves, which closely resemble chickory^ 
are gathered early in the spring and used for 
greens and salad. The roots are pulverized and 
used as a substitute for coffee. 

Through cultivation the dandelion has been so 
successfully improved that it now numbers among 
the best spring salad plants grown. 

DANDELION GREENS. 
Gather the young plants early in the morning while they 
are wet with dew. Cut off the coarse roots, wash thoroughly, 
steep in salt and water for several hours to remove the 
bitterness. Boil a ham shank for two hours, throw in the 
dandeions and cook gently for forty-five minutes. When 
done drain, chop fine, season with butter, pepper and salt. 
Pick off all the meat from the ham phank. mince very fine. 
Dish the greens on a plate, sprinkle the top with the minced 
ham; serve with a quarter of hard boiled egg on each 
portion. 



42 THE VEST POCKET 

DANDELION SALAD. 

The plants that grow in sandy soil are the most suitable 
for salad, as the stalks and leaves are usually better 
blanched. Cut off the roots and green portion of the leaves. 
Wash and steep in salt and water. When they become 
crisp, drain, press dry. Rub the salad bowl with a clove 
of garlic and put in the dandelions. Season with salt and 
sweet papriea, dress with olive oil and a few drops of vine- 
gar. Serve in same bowl. 

DANDELIONS AND POTATO SALAD. 

Gather and clean the dandelions as directed in the fore- 
going. When they become crisp, press dry, cut in pieces 
about an inch long. Slice the same amount of cold boiled 
potatoes, put into salad bowl with the dandelions, add sev- . 
eral minced green onions. Season with salt and Cayenne 
pepper. Cut a piece of bacon in small dice, fry to a golden 
color, add a little vinepar, and pour over the salad by de- 
grees, mixing it gently at the same time. Dish on a salad 
plate with a leaf of lettuce underneath. Garnish with 
capers. Serve. 

DILL. 

(Fr. Anrth). (Ger. Dill). 

Dill is an annual umbelliferous herb, Peuceda- 
num graveolens. It yields finely divided leaves, 
yellow flowers and pleasant aromatic seed. The j 
plant is a native of the Mediterranean countries, 
and is extensively grown in India, where it is 
highly esteemed for culinary purposes. In this 
country the leaves and flowers are used in pick- 
ling, flavoring soups and sauces. 
EGG-PLANT. 

{Fr. Aubergine). (Ger. Eierpflanze). 

This excellent vegetable, Solanum Metongena, 
commonly called mad-apples, is of East India 
origin. Yec it is cultivated for its large smooth 
egg-shaped fruit in almost every country on the 
globe. 

Egg-plant is in season from May to January, in 
fact, in favorable seasons, we are supplied with 
it the year 'round. 

EGG-PLANT PLAIN, FRIED. 
Peel the egg-plant fruit, cut in half lengthwise, then in 
slices about half an inch thick. Sprinkle each slice with ' 
salt, place them together again, cover with a damp cloth, 
set aside for two hours. Wash off the salt, drain, press dry, 
rub each slice with a piece of lemon, roll in flour and fry in 
hot fat until done- Drain, dish on a hot platter. Serve • 
with rich Hollandaise sauce separate. 



VEGETABLE BOOK 43 

EGG-PLANT FRIED IN CRUMBS 

Peel the fruit, divide in half lengthwise. Cut in slices 
half an inch thick. Parboil in salted water, drain, press 
dry. Season with pepper and salt. Egg and bread in fresh 
bread crumbs. Fry in hot lard. When done, drain. Serve 
on a folded napkin with Remoulade sauce separate. 
EGG-PLANT FRIED IN BATTER. 

Prepare the fruit the same as in the foregoing, except dip 
In French fritter batter. Fry until done; drain and serve 
on a folded napkin. 

EGG-PLANT AND TOMATOES FRIED. 

Peel a small egg-plant fruit. Cut in slices half an inch 
thick, rub each slice with salt, place together again, set 
aside for a short time. Then parboil, drain, roll in flour. 
Fry in shallow grease. 

Fry the same number of slices of ripe tomatoes. Arrange 
the slices of each alternately, overlapping each other on a 
hot platter. Glaze and serve- 

EGG-PLANT AU GRATIN. 

Cut a large egg-plant fruit in half, put on a baking pan 
(cut side up) bake in a slow oven one hour, or until it is 
done. 

Mince a green sweet pepper, saute in butter with the 
same amount of finely minced onion, add a ladleful of strong 
Allamande sauce. Rub off the skin of the baked egg-plant 
fruit. Cut in dice half an inch square, add to the sauce; 
season with salt, chopped parsley and grated nutmeg. 
Simmer for twenty minutes. Then put into gratin dishes, 
sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, fresh bread crumbs 
and bits of butter. Bake until brown. Serve while hot in 
same dish. 

EGG-PLANT OMELET. 

Cut the fruit in half, bake in a slow oven until done, pare 
off the skin, cut in small dice. Mince and saute a few 
shallots, add the egg-plant fruit, moisten with a ladleful of 
strong white sauce. Season with salt, sweet paprica and 
chopped parsley. Roll in the omelet. Garnish the top 
with a slice of fried tomato. 

STUFFED EGG-PLANT FRUIT, INDIENNE. 
Select the small fruit, wash and wipe dry. Cut off a 
piece near the stem to form the cover. Dig out the center 
with a vegetable scoop. Mince it very fine. Cut a small 
onion and a green sweet pepper in small dice, saute in 
butter. Add the minced egg-plant fruit, some ripe toma- 
toes cut in pieces, and enough rice to absorb the moisture 
when done. Simmer for forty-live minutes. Season with 
salt, curry powder and minced sweet herbs. Fill the rind 
with the mixture, place on cover. Bake in a slow oven for 
one hour. Serve on a hot platter neatly garnished with 
quarters of hard boiled eggs. 

EGG-PLANT FRUIT. STUFFED PLAIN. 
Select medium size fruit, wash. Cut in half lengthwise; 
scoop out the inside without injuring the skin. Chop it 



44 THE VEST POCKET 

very fine. Mince and saute a small onion in butter, add the 
chopped fruit, moisten with a little white stock, simmer for 
thirty minutes. Add sufficient fine cracker crumbs to ab- 
sorb the moisture. Season with salt and sweet paprica, 
remove from the Are, fill the skin, place each half in a large 
gratin dish, sprinkle top with fresh bread crumbs and bits 
of butter. Bake until it becomes a rich brown color. Serve 
in same dish. 

MASHED EGG-PLANT FRUIT. 
Select large fruit, pare, cut in thin slices. Rub with salt, 
place together again, wrap In a damp cloth, put aside for 
three hours. Then arrange the slices in layers in a stone 
jar with a thin slice of Bermuda onion and a few Chili 
peppers between each layer. Moisten with a little strong 
consomme; place on the cover and bake in a slow oven 
until it Is cooked to a pulp. Rub through a sieve, season, 
squeeze in a little lime juice. Serve the same as mashed 
turnips. 

ENDIVE. 

(Fr. Scarole). (Ger. Endivie). 

This well known salad plant, Cichorium En- 
divia has a close resemblance to chicory. Yet it 
can be easily distinguished by the largo annual 
roots and the decided bitter taste of the leaves. 
There are several sorts of these plants cultivated, 
such as the White, Green, Curled, etc., all of 
which are highly prized as a winter and early 
spring salad. For preparing, see Chicory. 
FENNEL. (Sweet). 

(Fr. Fenouil). (Ger. Fenchel). 

Is an umbelliferous plant, Foenicalum Vulgare. 
Sweet Fennel is the only one of the several spec- 
ies that is directly concerned in culinary opera- 
tions. This plant is a native of Southern Europe; 
but is commonly cultivated in India and America 
for the aromatic seeds which are distilled for the 
oil. Fennel oil is quite extensively used in mak- 
ing bitters, cordials, etc. The leaves when young 
are used for seasoning soups, salads and sauces. 
FILBERTS. 

(Fr. Avelines). (Ger. Lambertsnusse). 

Filberts are a large species of a cultivated 
variety of hazel-nut, Corylns Ai'cllana. The 
English Filberts are quite large and have a pleas- 
ant oily flavor. For preparing, see Hazel-nuts. 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 45 

GARLIC. 

(Fr. Ail). (Ger. Knoblauch). 

Garlic is an onion-like bulbous plant, Allium 
Sativum, having a close similarity to the leek. 
Each bulb is composed of a number of smaller 
ones which are called cloves. Garlic is a native of 
Central Asia, and is a popular condiment in all Or- 
iental countries. This valuable member of the on- 
ion tribe imparts a very pleasant flavor to soups, 
salads, farces, etc. But, on account of it posses- 
sing an exceedingly strong acrid taste, it must be 
used with moderation. 

GINGER. 

(Fr. Gingembre). (Ger.Jngicer). 

This is a plant of the genus Zingiber officinale. 
It is largely cultivated in the East and West 
Indies for the rootstocks, which have a hot spicy 
flavor. Ginger is much used in confections, pas- 
tries, and for making beer, ale, cordials, etc. 

GREEN PEPPERS. 

(Fr. Piments verts). (Ger. Grime Pfeffern). 

There are many species of peppers grown, but 
I shall only mention under this head those of the 
genus Capicu7ti, which includes the common an- 
nual garden varieties, such as the Ruby King, 
Golden Dawn, Long Bell or Bull Nose, Sweet 
Mammoth, Red Chili, etc. These varieties in 
their unripe state are used for seasoning soups, 
sauces and stews and are prepared in various 
ways as a vegetable. The ripe pods are much 
used in pickling and are also dried and ground, 
and are then known as Cayenne pepper, Paprica, 
etc. 

STUFFED GREEN PEPPERS, MEXICAN. 
Select several green peppers of uniform size. Wash and 
•wipe dry. uninerge them (whole) Into a fryer of hot fat, let 
remain for a few seconds, take out and rub off the skin. 
Cut off the stem end, dig out the seeds and remove the ribs 
(which is the hot portion). Chop and pound equal parts of 
raw chicken breasts and fresh pork to a farce, season with 
a clove of garlic, salt and Cayenne pepper. Add one fourth 
its quantity of fine cracker meal. Moisten with rich sweet 
cream. Rub through a sieve, add some whole blanched 



46 THE VEST POCKET 

almonds. Fill the cavity of the peppers, arrange In a saute 
pan. moisten with a little consomme, cover with an oiled 
paper. Braise in a slow oven for one hour. Glaze and 
serve on a hot platter. The stuffing may be made of lobster, 
shrimps, crab meat, or anything to suit the taste- 
SAUTE GREEN PEPPERS. 

Select large green peppers, plunge them into hot fat, rub 
off the skin. Cut in half, remove the stem and seeds. Cut 
away the ribs. Saute in butter for a few minutes, then 
moisten with a little strong white broth.. Cook slowly for 
thirty minutes, or until done. Season with chopped shal- 
lots, parsley, salt and sweet paprica. Serve on fancy cut 
slices of toast. Garnish with chopped yolks of hard boiled 
eggs. 

CHILI SAUCE. 

Chop very fine ten green sweet peppers, one peck of 
peeled ripe tomatoes, six sound onions and one small head 
of cabbage. Put the chopped mass into a clean saucepan, 
cook slowly for one hour. Then add one-half pound of 
white sugar, two ounces each of ground ginger, cinnamon, 
cloves, mustard, and four ounces of celery seeds. Simmer 
one hour longer, salt to taste. Add one-half pint of strong 
cider vinegar. Bottle and store for use. 

GUMBO. (See Okra). 

HAZEL-NUTS. 

(Fr. Noitcttes). (Ger. Haselnusse). 

Hazel-nut is a small shrub of the oak family, 
Corylus Americatia. This plant grows in dense 
thickets in many parts of the United States. It 
yields a small sweet and delicately flavored nut, 
the meat of which is used to a great extent by 
confectioners in making candies, etc. But their 
real culinary value is never fully appreciated 
until prepared and eaten as a salad. 

HAZEL-NUT SALAD. 
Soak a pound of shelled hazel-nuts over night in slightly 
salted water. In the morning blanch them and remove the 
skin, cut in half. Remove the seeds from one pound of 
Malaga grapes. Wash and cut three well bleached stalks 
of celery in dice one-half inch square. Cut one pound of 
boiled chicken breasts in squares the same size. Put alto- 
gether in a salad bowl. Season with salt and sweet paprica. 
Mix with mayonnaise to which has been added one-fourth 
its quantity of whipped cream. Set in ice-box until it be- 
comes very cold. Serve on lettuce leaves in pyramids with 
some of the dressing poured over. Garnish with capers and 
the petals of red and white roses. 

HOPS. 
(Fr. Houblons). {Ger. Hop fen). 

This is a long twining plant, Humulus Lufidus* 



VEGETABLE BOOK. H 7 

laving a perennial root and annual stalks. The 
strobiles or female flowers are used by brewers 
:o impart a pleasant bitter taste to malt liquors 
md to prevent sourness. For the latter reason 
:hey are also employed by bakers in making 
feast. The young shoots are frequently prepared 
ind eaten like asparagus. 

BOILED HOP-SHOOTS. 

Gather the young shoots just as soon as they spring from 
iheground. Wash and tie in bunches like asparagus, steep 
n salt water to remove the bitterness. Boil in meat stock 
jntil tender. Serve on slices of buttered toast, with drawn 
jutter separate. 

FRIED HOP-SHOOTS Itf CRUMBS. 

Plain boil the young shoots. Press them dry. season, roll 
n flour, egg and bread in cracker meal. Fry in hot tat. 
-erve on a folded napkin with rich Hollandaiso sauce 
separate. 

II0P-SU00T3, VINAIGRETTE. 

Flain boil the shoots. Put in ice-box to remain until they 
>ecome cold. Arrange on lettuce leaves. Serve with vin- 
ligrette sauce poured over. 

HORSE-RADISH. 
(Fr. Raifort). {Get-. Meerretiig), 

Horse-radish is a cultivated plant of the radish 
family, CocJdcaria Armoracia. It was originally 
i native of Central Europe, but is now extensively 
»rown in all sub-tropical countries. The roots, 
which have a sharp pungent taste, are grated and 
used as a condiment, and in cookery for prepar- 
ing sauces, salads, etc. 

ILOivSK-RADlSII SAUCE FOR BOILED FRESH BEEF. 

Thicken the plain heef bouillon with a roux. Season and 
add the grated horse-radish to taste. 

HORSE-RADISH SAUCE FOR BOILED SEA FISH. 

Prepare a white sauce of the court bouillon. Season and 
add the grated horse-radish and a little anchovy essence. 
HORSE-RADISH SAUCE. (Cold). 

Prepare a mayonnaise sauce in the usual way. Add to It 
some grated horse-radish and a few drops of tarragon 
vinegar. 

JASMINE. 

{Fr. Jasmin). (Ger. Jasmin). 

This is a plant of a number of species of the 
naturalized order of Jasminum. But the only 
bne that has any culinary significance is the J. 



48 THE VEST POCKET 

officinale. This variety is much cultivated in 
Asia, the white or yellow flowers yielding the 
well known Jasmine oil, which is so commonly 
used in the manufacture of cordials and perfumes. 
It is also employed to some extent for flavoring 
high grade confections. 

JUNIPER. 

(Fr. Genevrier). (Ger. Waehholder) . 

This is a common North. American shrub, 
Juntyerus communis, having small purple ber- 
ries, which are used in the manufacture of gin 
and other liquors. 

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 
(See Artichokes). 

KALE OR BORECOLE. 

(Fr. Choufrise vert). (Ger. Kohlsprossen) . 

This is a hardy species of cabbage of the nat- 
ural order cruciferous. It does not, however, 
form a head like cabbage, but yields an abund- 
ance of finely curled leaves. In many parts of 
Europe kale is a highly prized winter and spring 
vegetable, though it has not become very popu- 
lar in this country. The plant will endure con- 
siderable frost without injury. The cultivated 
varieties which are found on the market during 
the winter months, are the Green Curled, Sea- 
Kale and Siberian. 

BOILED KALE AND SMOKED JOWL. 

Select several bunches of kale, cut off the roots, wash the 
leaves thoroughly, then steep them in salt water for sev- 
eral hours to remove the bitterness. Put a smoked jowl to 
boil in a large saucepan. When it is half done put in the 
kale and cook until it is thoroughly done. Take out the 
Jowl, drain off the water and chop the kale very fine. Season 
and add to it a little rich white sauce. Serve on a platter 
with slices of the jowl on top. Ham, bacon, salt pork, etc., 
can be used instead of jowl. 

KALE SALAD. 

Select the inside leaves of young kale, remove the roots 
and carefully wash the leaves. Steep them in salt water 
two or three hours. Then plunge into boiling water and 
cook until done. Drain, press dry, and cut in pieces about 
two inches long. Put into a salad bowl that has been 
rubbed with a clove of garlic. Season and mix with French 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 49 

salad dressing. Serve in same bowl. Garnish with quar- 
ters of hard boiled eggs. 

KOHLRABI. 

(Fr. Chourave). (Ger. Kohlrubi). 

This plant is a peculiar subordinate species of 
the cabbage family, Brassica oleracea gongy- 
lodes. The stem, which grows above the ground, 
expands or swells into a bulb-like formation much 
like a turnip, and provides the edible portion. 
Kohlrabi serves as a substitute for turnips in 
early spring. It is principally cultivated, how- 
ever, for feeding stock. For preparing, see tur- 
nips. 

LAUREL LEAVES. (See Bay Leaves). 
LEEK. 

(Fr. Poireau). (Ger. Lauch). 

The leek is a small succulent plant, Allium Por- 
rum, which is a close relative to the common onion, 
though it is easily distinguished by its broad flat 
leaves formed from a cylindrical base. It also 
possesses a milder and more pleasant taste. The 
leek was first cultivated by the Ancient Egyptians 
and was made popular in Rome by Emperor 
Nero. For seasoning soups, sauces and stews it 
has no equal. 

COCKIE-LEEKIE SOUP. 
i Prepare a strong white broth with one capon or fowl, and 
two veal shanks. Remove the fowl when it is done, reduce 
the stock to half. Clean and cut six leeks in pieces cross- 
wise about a quarter of an inch thick. Braise with a lump 
♦of butter in a clean saucepan for fifteen minutes. Strain 
and pour on the stock. Add the meat of the fowl after it 
has been picked from the bones and cut in small pieces. 
Simmer for one hour. Season with salt and white pepper. 
Serve with a dish of plain boiled barley separate. 

BOILED LEEKS, CREAM DRESSING. 

Select young leeks. Pull off the outside leaves, trim away 
uhe roots. Wash, cut in pieces two inches long. Blanch. 
Boil in salted water until done. Drain; arrange in a deep 
vegetable dish. Serve with rich cream sauce poured over. 
LEEKS, ROMAIN. 
Strip off the outside leaves and with them the skin that 
covers the white portion of the bulb. Blanch in salt water, 
drain and press dry. Saute in butter for a few minutes, 
,*hen moisten with a little strong white broth, cover with an 



50 THE VEST POCKET 

oiled paper and simmer until they are done. (The stock 
should all evaporate in cooking, leaving the leeks quite dry.) 
Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with a little pow- 
dered sugar, toss over a hot fire until the7 become well 
glazed. Serve on a hot platter. 

LEEK AND LETTUCE SALAD. 

Clean and cut the leeks In pieces about three inches long. 
Blanch, boil in salted water. When they are done, drain 
and press dry. Put in the ice-box to remain until they be- 
come cold. 

Clean and shred the required amount of Cos lettuce. Ar- 
range it in a pyramid in the center of a large salad plate. 
Cut the leeks in half lengthwise. Arrange them endwise 
around the pyramid of lettuce (cut side out) forming a 
perfect border. Pour French salad dressing over. Garnish 
the base of each with a slice of hard boiled egg. Serve- 

LENTILS. 

(Fr. Lentilles.) (Ger. Linse.n). 

Are the seed of an annual leguminous plant, 
Lens esculeyita. In oriental countries and many 
parts of Europe lentils are as common as peas 
and beans in this country. Their origin is not 
exactly known; but according to tradition they 
were widely cultivated by the ancient Egyptians 
and Hebrews. By the latter, no doubt, they were 
highly prized, for Esau sold his birthright to 
Jacob for a single bowl of pottage of lentils. 
They, however, compare favorably in nutritive 
value with peas and beans. As a commercial ar- 
ticle they can be bought whole, cracked, or ground 
into meal. 

PUREE OF LENTILS. (Soup). 

Soak the lentils in water over night. In the morning 
drain and wash thoroughly. Blanch, and again wash in 
several waters. Put them to cook in strong mutton broth. 
Add a ham bone, a carrot, several onions studded with 
cloves, a stalk of celery and a boquet of sweet herbs. Boil 
up and skim carefully, then shove back to simmer until 
they are done. 

Prepare a mirepoix of a lump of butter, flour and a 
chopped leek. Slightly brown and incorporate it with the 
puree. 

Remove the ham bone, carrot, celery, boquet and onions. 
Rub the lentils through a fine sieve. Add more broth, if 
necessary, to make it of the proper consistency. Season 
with pepper and salt. Serve with bread sippets. 

PUREE OF LENTILS, CONDE. (For Garnishing). 

Soak the lentils for several hours. Blanch in salted 
water. Skim off all that rises to the top. Drain and return 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 51 

to fire in a clean saucepan; cover with water. Add a small 
piece of salt pork, a carrot, an onion, boquet of sweet herbs, 
and a small sack of mixed spices. Boil slowly until they 
are thoroughly done and the water has nearly evaporated. 
Then remove tbe pork, carrot, onion, boquet and spices. 
Rub the lentils through a fine hair tammy. Put the mass 
into a stone jar and set it in the bain-marie. Season with 
salt and white pepper. Add a little tomato sauce. Use to 
garnish boiled meats and entrees. 

LETTUCE. 

(Fr. Laitue.) (Ger. Lcttich oder Salat.) 

Lettuce is the most common of all green salads. 
It is a hardy annual plant of the genus Lactiica 
sativa. The numerous varieties, for conven- 
ience sake, are divided into two classes — the Cab- 
bage, which includes the various low forms with 
rounding heads and broad spreading leaves; and 
the Cos, the species with long, narrow, upright 
leaves, having a downward tapering shape. 

While lettuce does not possess any great amount 
of nutritious properties it is a very refreshing 
addition to more substantial dishes, and for gar- 
nishing it is indispensable. We are plentifully 
supplied the year 'round with both classes. 

In serving I have found it most practical to 
allow the guests to prepare their own dressing at 
the table. 

LETTUCE SALAD. (1). 

Take a head of freshly gathered Cabbage-lettuce. Pick 
off the green leaves, cut it in four, arrange in a salad bowl. 
Prepare a dressing by rubbing the yolk of a hard boiled egg 
with the yolk of a raw one. Slowly incorporate six table- 
spoonfuls of olive oil, a little cider vinegar, a dash of 
Tabasco sauce and salt to taste. Pour over the lettuce. 
Garnish with quarters of hard boiled eggs and a few chop- 
ped chives. Serve. 

LETTUCE SALAD. (2). 

Select fresh Cos lettuce, wipe the leaves clean without 
washing (if possible). Put them into a salad bowl; set in 
ice-box to remain until cold. Take out, season with salt, 
white pepper and a little powdered sugar. Pour French 
salad dressing over them. Serve in same bowl. 
LETTUCE SALAD. (3). 

Take a large head of Cabbage-lettuce. Pick off the out- 
side leaves, divide in six pieces. Arrange on a deep salad 
plate. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Season w.th salt 
and white pepper. Pour on some rich cream and a few 
drops of cider vinegar. Mix carefully. Garnish with chop- 



52 THE VEST POCKET 

ped pistachio nuts. Serve. This method is much practiced 
in Eastern states. 

LETTUCE SALAD. (4). 

Take several small heads of Cabbage-lettuce. Pick off 
the outside leaves. Trim the stem end so that the head 
will stand erect. Then very carefully pull the head apart, 
(without detaching the leaves). Season with salt and pap- 
rica. Cut a piece of bacon in small dice, saute it to a golden 
color, add a little cider vinegar, and while hot pour it into 
the lettuce head. Serve on a salad plate. 

STUFFED COS LETTUCE (Salad). 

Take the required number of Cos lettuce heads. Pick off 
the wilted leaves, neatly trim the stem ends, remove the 
hearts or inside leaves. Put in the ice-box to remain until 
cold. Cut the hearts in small pieces. Put into a salad 
bowl with a like amount of boiled chicken breasts cut in 
small dice. Stone some ripe sour cherries, add them to the 
above. Season with salt and a little Cayenne pepper. Mix 
with mayonnaise to which has been added one-fourth its 
quantity of thick sour cream. Fill the cavity of the lettuce. 
Tie top of the leaves together with a piece a pale green 
baby ribbon. Serve on a small salad plate, one head to 
each person. 

LETTUCE AND TOMATO SALAD. 

Clean several heads of Cabbage-lettuce. Put them in the 
ice-box to chill. 

Peel and core the required number of small ripe tomatoes, 
scoop out a small cavity in each, fill it with mayonnaise. 
Cut the lettuce in four. Serve a quarter of it with each 
tomato, neatly arranged on a salad plate. Garnish with 
chopped chives. 

LETTUCE SALAD, GERMAN STYLE. 

Clean a few heads of lettuce, wash and press them dry. 
Cut in coarse shreds, put into a salad bowl, mix with them 
some finely chopped green onions and thin slices of cucum- 
bers; season with salt and pepper. 

Shred a piece of bacon, saute it to a golden color, add a 
little cider vinegar, and while hot pour It over the lettuce; 
thoroughly mix. Garnish with slices of hard boiled eggs. 
Serve in same bowl. 

BRAISED LETTUCE FOR GARNISHING. 

Take several small heads of Cabbage-lettuce. Pick off 
the outside leaves. Trim them to a uniform size, Care- 
fully pull the leaves apart without detaching them from 
the stem. Then stuff the cavity with chicken farce; put 
them in place again. Wrap each head separately in a piece 
of cheese cloth. Arrange them in a saute pan, moisten with 
a little strong white broth. Cover and braise in a hot oven 
for twenty minutes or until they become heated through. 
Take them out of the cloth, cut in quarters. Glaze and use 
for garnishing meat entrees or serve as a vegetable. 
CABBAGE-LETTUCE, D'UXELLE. 

Clean the required number of heads of Cabbage-lettuce. 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 53 

Cut in quarters. Spread the cut sides with plenty of sauce 
D'Uxelle. Arrange them in a shallow saute pan. Moisten 
with a little strong consomme, cover with a thin oiled paper. 
Braise in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. Take up and 
serve quickly on a hot platter. 

CREAM OF LETTUCE SOUP. 
Take the coarse outside leaves of lettuce, thoroughly 
wash and press dry. Chop them very fine. Put into a 
saucepan with a lump of butter, sprig of celery, a chopped 
onion and a bouquet of sweet herbs. Braise for a few min- 
utes, then moisten with strong white stock. Simmer slowly 
for two hours. Slightly thicken with flour and water. Re- 
move from the Are, take out the bouquet and stalk of celery. 
Rub through a fine sieve. Return to fire In a clean sauce- 
pan, add one-fourth its quantity of thick Bechamel sauce. 
Boil up, skim. Finish with a liaison of egg yolks and sweet 
cream. Season with salt and white pepper. Serve with 
cheese straws separate. 

MACARONI. 

(Fr. Macaroni). (Ger. Maccaroni). 

This is a kind of stiff paste made of wheat flour 
and water, then molded into pipes or tubes and 
dried in the sun or by artificial heat. The same 
material is also formed into various other shapes, 
as spaghetti, vermicelli, alphabetical letters, etc. 

The flour is prepared from the glutinous gran- 
ulars of hard varieties of wheat. It was origi- 
nally claimed that macaroni could only be made 
from wheat grown in Italy, which without doubt 
was a mistake, for it is now successfully manu- 
factured in France, England and many other 
countries. 

Macaroni is a cheap article of food and can be 
made into many excellent dishes. In Genoa and 
Naples it forms a substantial part of the natives' 
diet. 

MACARONI. HOW TO BOIL. 

Always purchase the best grade. It costs but a little more 
and the best results are sure to be obtained. 

Carefully remove the macaroni from the paper (avoid 
breaking as much as possible), lmmerge it (whole) in a 
large saucepan of boiling salt water. Cook from twenty to 
twenty-rive minutes. Remove from the fire, drain and 
immediately cover with cold water. Let stand until it be- 
comes cool. Then drain, press dry and use as needed. 

If macaroni has become dry and brittle it is best to steep 
it in cold water for a few minutes before boiling. For es- 



54 THE VEST POCKET 

tablishments where it is in constant demand, several pounds 
can be boiled at a time and kept in the ice-box for a number 
of days, if put into a stone jar and covered with water. 

MACARONI AU GRAT1N. 

Boil the macaroni (whole) in salted water for twenty- 
minutes. Immerge in cold water, drain, press dry. Cut in 
pieces one inch long. Put it into a saute pan with a lump 
of butter, season with salt, Cayenne pepper and a little 
grated nutmeg. Add the required amount of Bechamel 
snuce and a handful of grated Parmesan cheese, chafe on 
the tire until thoroughly mixed (do not use a spoon), and 
the cheese has become stringy. Then put it into gratln 
dishes, smooth down the top. Sprinkle with fresh bread 
crumbs and bits of butter. Bake in a hot oven until it be- 
comes a rich brown color. Serve while hot in same dish. 
MACARONI A L'lTALIENNE. 

Cut boiled macaroni in pieces three inches long. Put into 
a saucepan, add a ladleful each of tomato and Madeira 
sauce. Season with salt, Cayenne pepper, grated nutmeg 
and a pinch of dry mustard. Throw in a handful of grated 
Parmesan cheese, simmer for twenty minutes over a slow 
tire, chafe at frequent intervals. When done, dish on a hot 
plaiter. Sprinkle top with grated Swiss cheese Surve. 
MACARONI, Q ENEVOIS. 

Boil the macaroni in the usual way. Cool and let it drain 
on a sieve. Boil the required number of Cbipolata sausage 
(two for each person). 

Cut the macaroni in pieces a half inch long. Put it 
into a saute pan, add a ladleful of strong veal gravy. Sea- 
son with salt and white pepper. Toss over the Are until it 
becomes hot. Then heap on the center of a platter. Ar- 
range the sausage endwise around the base to form a border. 
Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese. Shove into a hot 
oven and let remain for five minutes. Serve while hot. 
CH1POLATA SAUSAGE. 

Is made of equal parts of game and lean freeh pork, 
pounded to a smooth farce, seasoned with salt, pepper, nut- 
meg and plenty of finely chopped shallots. Then run into 
sheep casings and tied about two inches long. 

Chipolata dressing, for stuffing poultry, game, etc., is 
prepared of the same material, except about a third of its 
quantity of blanched and pounded Italian chestnuts (mar- 
rons) are added. 

TIMBALE OF MACARONI, A LA CREME. 

Line the timbale molds with thinly rolled puff paste, trim I 
off the ragged edges, fill the cavity with dry beans. Bake. 

Boil the macaroni in the usual way. Drain and cut in 
pieces about a quarter of an inch long. Put in a saute pan 
with a small lump of butter, season with salt and Cayenne \ 
pepper. Add a ladleful of rich cream sauce and some 
grated Parmesan cheeso, simmer until it becomes hot. 
Finish with a liaison of egg yolks and sweet cream. Empty 
out the beans from the timbale shells. Fill in the macaroni, 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 55 

turn upside down on a platter. Garnish the top of each 
with a slice of truffle cut star shape- Serve- 
MACARONI, NAPOLITAISE. 

Lard a piece of lean beef with fat bacon. Make several 
small incisions in it with a thin pointed knife; insert a clove 
of garlic in each. Put some sliced carrot, a bouquet of sweet 
herbs, :m onion, sprig of celery, pepper corns, bay leaves 
and several peeled ripe tomatoes into a saucepan. Lay in 
the beef, which has been slightly browned in a hot oven. 
Add a ladleful of Espagnolo sauce and a bottle of claret. 
Cover and braise in a slow oven for four hours, from time 
to time adding a little consomme- Boil and cut the macar- 
oni in pieces one inch long. Put it into a saute pan with a 
small lump of butter. When it has become hot add some 
grated Parmesan cheese. 

Take out the beef, cut in small pieces, add to the macar- 
oni. Strain, skim and pour on the sauce- Season. Chafe 
over the fire until it is thoroughly mixed. Dish on a deep 
platter. Garnish with mushrooms saute. Serve very 
hot. 

TIMBALE OF MACARONI, SERPENTINE. 

Thoroughly grease as many plain timbale molds as needed, 
dust them with line cracker meal. Then line with well 
oiled rice paper. 

Procure the best grade of Italian macaroni. Boil it twenty 
minutes in salted water. Drain, and immerge it in a ran 
of ice water. When cool, drain and carefully press it dry. 
Pick out the whole pieces and run them around the inside 
of the mold spiral shape Fill the cavity with Macaroni a 
la Creme- Pour a half inch of water in a baking pan; set 
in the molds. Cover them with an oiled paper. Rake in a 
slow oven for thirty minutes. Unmold, remove the paper, 
place on hot platter. Garnish top of each with a fresh 
mushroom saute. Serve. 

MACARONI, MILANAI8B. 

Boil and cut the macaroni in pieces one and a half Inches 
long. Put it into a saute pan with a small lump of butter. 
Season with salt, Cayenne pepper and nutmeg. When it 
has become hot put In a handful of grated Parmesan cheese, 
and a ladleful each of Espagnole and tomato sauce. While 
it is simmering add equal parts of smoked tongue, mush- 
rooms and black truffles cut julienne style. Serve. 
CURRIED MACARONI. 

Boll the macaroni in the usual way. Cut in pieces two 
inches long. Crack the bone of two veal shanks. Put them 
into a saucepan with a carrot, an onion studded with cloves, 
sprig of celery and a bouquet of sweet herbs. Cover with 
cold water and boil until the meat falls from the bones. 
Strain off the stock, thicken it with a roux, add the required 
amount of curry powder. Cut the meat in small pieces. 

Mince some shallots, saute in butter. Throw in the mac- 
aroni. Strain on the curry sauce. Add the meat, simmer 
for fifteen minutes. Serve. 



56 THE VEST POCKET 

MACARONI RAVIOLES. 

Procure the large kind of macaroni (of German manu- 
facture). Tie four or five pieces loosely in a cheese cloth 
(allowing enough room to swell). Soak in cold water ten 
minutes, boil in salt water for a quarter of an hour, sub- 
merge in a pan of ice water. When it has become cold 
drain on a sieve. 

Mince and pound in a mortar some boiled spinach and a 
piece of ox-marrow. Add to it some minced and saute 
shallots, fresh bread crumbs and a handful of grated Par- 
mesan cheese. Moisten with a little consomme, season 
with Cayenne pepper, salt and grated nutmeg. Incorporate 
enough raw eggs to make it of the proper consistency. Rub 
through a fine sieve. 

Remove the macaroni from the cheese cloth. Cut in 
pieces three inches long. Put the farce into an ornament- 
ing sack. Stuff the pieces of macaroni. Arrange them in a 
saute pan, cover with veal gravy. Braise in a slow oven 
for twenty minutes. Serve on a hot platter or use to gar- 
nish soups, entrees, etc. 

CREAM OF MACARONI (Soup). 
Boil and drain the required amount of macaroni. Pre- 
pare a mirepolx using an onion, carrot, stalk of celery, 
bouquet of sweet herbs, and a blade or so of mace. Braise 
slowly for a few minutes, but do not brown. Add sufficient 
strong white broth to make the soup, having it of the proper 
consistency. Boil and simmer for three hours, strain, sea- 
son with salt and sweet paprica. Finish with a liaison of 
egg yolks and sweet cream. Cut the macaroni in pieces 
one-fourth of an inch long, add it to the soup. Serve with 
a little grated Parmesan cheese sprinkled in each portion. 

MACARONI SOUP A L'lTALIENNE. 
Break the macaroni in pieces about an inch long. Cut 
several onions, carrots, a small turnip, stalk of celery and 
a head of cabbage in slices with a Saratoga chip machine. 
Put them into a saucepan with a lump of butter. Braise 
slowly for a few minutes. Moisten with strong beef bouil- 
lon, simmer for two hours. Then add the macaroni, sev- 
eral peeled ripe tomatoes and the same amount of raw 
potatoes cut Julienne style. Cook thirty minutes longer. 
Season with salt, white pepper and chopped young parsley. 
When served, sprinkle each portion with grated Parmesan 
cheese. 

MACE. 
(Fr. Marts). (Ger. Muskatenbluthe). 

Mace is the network or "aril" which surrounds 
the nutmeg. When dried it is a very valuable 
spice in cookery. It imparts a pleasant flavor 
to all dishes having milk or cream as a basis. 

(See nutmeg). 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 57 

MARJORAM. 

(Fr. Marjolaine). (Ger. Majoram). 

This is a perennial aromatic and fragrant plant 
of the genus Origanum, belonging to the mint 
family. Sweet Marjoram was once a very popu- 
lar seasoning, but now it is seldom used. The 
oil, which is expressed from the green leaves, is 
sometimes employed in making cordials. 
MARRONS. 
(See chestnuts). 

MINT. 

(Fr. Menthe). {Ger. Munze). 

Mint is an aromatic herb of the genus Mentha. 
The most common species are, the peppermint, 
spear-mint, garden-mint and pennyroyal-mint. 

Spearmint is the most suitable for all culinary 
purposes, and is very easily distinguished from 
the others by its wrinkled and spear shaped 
leaves. 

Mint is the most powerfully flavored herb em- 
ployed in cookery, therefore its use is almost 
entirely confined to making mint sauce. Yet a 
cook will occasionally venture to drop a sprig into 
a pot of green peas. 

Mint oil is principally used in the manufacture 
of cordials, bitters and medicines. 

MINT SAUCE. 
Wash the mint In several waters to remove the sand. 
Pick off the leaves, press dry, chop fine and cover with vine- 
gar. Add enough sugar to sweeten it. Put into stone jug 
and use when needed. Serve separate with roast lauib and 
mutton. 

MOREL OR MORIL. 

(Fr. Morille). (Ger. Morchel). 

This is a kind of edible mushroom, Morchella, 
csculenta. The surface of the upper part is re- 
ticulated and very porous, for which reason they 
should not be gathered after a rain or while wet 
with dew. The cultivated varieties are much 
used, when dried, for seasoning soups, sauces 
and stews; but like all mushrooms are best when 



58 THE VEST POCKET 

fresh. Its season is from April to June. The 
wild species are usually found in sandy places, 
and, being exposed to the rain and wind during 
growth the sand becomes so imbedded in the 
pores that it is impossible to wash it out; conse- 
quently they are of little or no value as food. 

MORELS, SAUTE. 

Gather the morels before they are full grown. Wash 
them several times in lukewarm water, drain. Trim off the 
bottoms, cut in half. Parboil in sliyhtly salted water for 
ten minutes. Immerge in cold water, press dry in a clean 
towel. Chop a few shallots, saute them in butter, throw in 
the morels and cook slowly lor twenty minutes. Season 
with salt, pepper and chopped parsley. Moisten with a 
glassful of white wine Arrange on a fancy cut slice of 
toast, pour over the butter. Garnish with a sprig of fried 
young parsley. Serve. 

MORELS, STUFFED. 

Wash, and trim off the stems Parboil them in salted 
water for ten minutes, immerge in cold water, drain and 
can fully press them dry. Thoroughly wash and chop the 
stems and trimmings. Saute in butter with a few chopped 
shallots. When done add a few bread crumbs to absorb 
the butter; season with salt and paprica. Remove from 
the Are, set aside until they become cool. Then add the 
mass to some cooked chicken farce and with it stuff the 
more's. Arrange them in a buttered saute pan, sprinkle 
with fresh bread crumbs and bits of batter. Bake until 
they are a rich brown. Serve with Colbert sauce, or use to 
garnish meat entrees. 

MORELS. (Prepare for garnish). 

Select small ones, wash them thoroughly. Parboil for 
fifteen minutes, drain on a towel. Saute slowly in butter 
with some chopped onions and a faggot of parsley. Take 
up. glaze and use to garnish meat dishes. 

Tkey may also be served with Allemande, cream or Es- 
pagnole sauce. 

MUSHROOMS. 
(Fr. Champignons). (Ger. Schwammes). 

Mushrooms are the fruit of one of the lowest 
of the great series of flowerless plants of the 
classified order Fungi, and not the plant itself as 
is commonly supposed. The common edible 
species now largely cultivated are of the genus 
Argicus campestris, of which several varieties 
are edible; but many are said to be very poison- 
ous. The plant in its younger stage is a network 



VEGETABLE COOK. 5^ 

of white threads, which are called mycelium or 
spawn, and it is from the joints of these threads 
that the mushroom developes. The spores from 
which the spawn is bred, is the decay of higher 
organism. Yet they possess a delicate flavor and 
are eagerly sought for; but their nutrient value 
is slight. 

Mushrooms are quick in growth and rapid in 
decay, therefore they are suitable for food only 
when fresh and crisp. Their season is from Oc- 
tober to May, yet in some sections of the country 
they can be had the year 'round. 

For reasons of there being no set rules by which 
an edible mushroom can be distinguished from a 
poisonous fungi, the selection should be intrusted 
to a competent judge, particularly when wild 
mushrooms are used. 

By permission of the author of "Vaughan's 
Vegetable Cook Book" I have the pleasure of 
presenting the following article, which I consider 
deserving of recognition: "The highest authori- 
ties say an edible mushroom can be easily dis- 
tinguished from a poisonous fungi by certain 
characteristics. A true mushroom grows only in 
pastures, never in wet boggy places and never 
about stumps or trees. They are of small size, 
dry, and if the flesh is broken it remains white or 
nearly so and has a pleasant odor; though there 
is a white variety which grows in woods or on the 
border of woods that is very poisonous. The cap 
of a true mushroom has a frill, the gills are free 
from the stem, they never grow down against it, 
but usually there is a small channel all around 
the top of the stem. The spores are brown, 
black or deep purple black, and the stems are 
solid or only slightly pithy. It is said if salt is 
sprinkled on the gills and they become yellow the 
mushroom is poisonous; if black they are edible." 

The skin on the cap of a non-poisonous mush' 
room is easily removed, while that of a toad-stool 



60 THE VEST POCKET 

or other poisonous fungi firmly adheres and can 
be removed only in small bits. 

MUSHROOMS. (How to prepare for cooking.) 

Obtain freshly gathered mushrooms. Sort out the but- 
tons, saving them for garnitures and sauces. The large 
open ones are most suitable for broiling, baking, stufHng, 
eic. Trim off the stems, peel the caps, thoroughly wash 
them In cold water, to which has been added the juice of a 
lemon. Drain them on a clean towel and use as needed. 
The stems after being washed can be chopped and used in 
stuffings, purees and sauces. 

ESSENCE OF MUSHROOMS. 

Put the stems, peelings and broken mushrooms In a stone 
Jar. Sprinkle them with a little salt, put in ice box to 
macerate over night. In the morning mash them, strain 
off the juice and reduce it to half on a slow fire- By this 
method the delicate flavor of the mushroom Is preserved, 
making it much more preferable to mushroom catsup for 
seasoning. 

MUSHROOM CATCHUP. 

(See catchup). 

BROILED MUSHROOMS. 

Select large open mushrooms. Peel, cut off the stems 
close to the gill. Wash in slightly acidulated water, drain 
on a clean towel. Put them into an earthen bowl, season 
with salt and pepper, squeeze on a little lemon juice, pour 
over some olive oil, cover with an oil paper and set aside 
for an hour. Then broil over a quick fire. Arrange on 
fancy cut slices of buttered toast. Serve very hot under a 
glass cover. 

STUFFED MUSHROOMS. 

Select medium size open mushrooms. Peel the caps, cut 
off the stems, wash and drain them. Chop the stems with 
some shallots and parsley, saute in a little butter, add a 
ladleful of thick Allemande sauce, and a little claret. Sea- 
son with salt and white pepper. Simmer until it is thor- 
oughly heated, then add enough egg yolks to bind the mass. 
Stuff the gill side of the mushrooms, sprinkle with fresh 
bread crumbs and bits of butter. Arrange in a buttered 
saute pan. Moisten with a little white broth. Bake for 
fifteen minutes in a slow oven. Then brown the tops with 
a hot salamander. Serve on a folded napkin. 

STUFFED MUSHROOMS. ITALIENNE. 

Cut off the stems; peel and wash the required number of 
large open mushrooms. Wash and chop the stems with a 
clove of garlic and a small onion. Saute in butter, add a 
ladleful of reduced tomato sauce, simmer for twentv min- 
utes, season with Cayenne pepper, salt and a little nutmeg. 
Put In enough fresh bread crumbs to absorb the moisture, 
add a handful of grated Parmesan cheese, stuff the mush- 
rooms, sprinkle the top with fresh bread crumbs and bits of 
butter. Arrange In a greased saute pan, moistened with a 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 6l 

glassful of white wine. Bake in a slow oven for twenty 
minutes. Serve on a bot platter, garnished with macaroni 
a la creme. 

STUFFED MUSHROOMS, T1ERRA DEL FUEGO. 

Select medium size cup-shaped mushrooms, break off the 
stems, peel the caps, wash and drain them on a towel. 
Wash the stems, chop them with a few shallots, a sprig of 
celery and a green sweet pepper. Saute in butter or a little 
olive oil for ten minutes. Moisten with a ladlef ul of strong 
chicken broth, simmer slowly until it is reduced to half, 
then put in enough rasped bread crumbs to make it the 
proper consistency. Season with salt, paprica and chopped 
parsley. When finished add a black truffle cut in julienne 
style. Thoroughly mix. Stuff the caps, smooth the stuffing 
down neatly with a palette-knife. bruBh them over with a 
liaison of eggs, dip into fresh bread crumbs. Saute in 
butter until they become a golden color. Arrange on fancy 
cut slices of toast. Serve on a folded napkin, with rich 
Allamande sauce separate- 

MUSHROOM BUTTONS. 
(Prepare for Sauce and Garnitures.) 

Pick out the buttons, trim off the stems, peel and wash 
them In cold water to which add a little lemon juice. Put 
them into an earthen casserole with a lump of butter and a 
glassful of white wine. 

Put on the cover and simmer slowly until they are heated 
through. Then add the juice of a lemon and put them into 
a Mason jar, put on cover and set in a cool place and use as 
a substitute for canned mushrooms. 

MUSHROOMS AU GRATIN. 

Pick out large open mushrooms, break off the stems, peel, 
wash and drain them on a towel, gill side down. Wash and 
chop the stems with a few shallots and a little parsley. 
Saute them with a handful of shredded raw bacon. Put 
with them several peeled ripe tomatoes (cut in small 
pieces). Simmer thirty minutes. Then add a handful of 
grated American cheese and enough broken crackers to 
absorb the moisture. Season with salt and paprica. Stuff 
the mushrooms in the usual way. Neatly form the stuffing 
pyramidal shape. Sprinkle with fresh bread crumbs and 
bits of butter. Arrange them on a baking sheet and bake 
in a medium oven until they become a rich brown color. 
Serve on fancy croutons, garnished with rosettes of mashed 
potatoes. 

CREAM OF MUSHROOMS, SUPREME. 

Clean about two dozen large mushrooms, cut them in 
pieces a half inch square (stem and all). Put them into 
a stone jar, cover with cold water, place in a slow oven and 
cook until they become tender. When done rub through a 
fine sieve. Cut a few shallots, a carrot and a sprig of celery 
in small pieces, braise them in butter for fifteen minutes. 
Then add a bunch of parsley, blade of mace and flour 



62 THE VEST POCKET 

enough to thicken the soup. 

Blend the flour and butter to a smooth paste. Slowly in- 
corporate the required quantity of strong veal broth. Boil 
up and shove back to simmer two hours. Skim off the fat 
strain and add the mushroom pulp. Season with salt, white 
pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Bluish with one-fourth 
the quantity of builed rich sweet cream. Serve with a 
bundle of cheese straws separate. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE, (Brown). 

Take the trimmings and stems of mushrooms that have 
been used for other purposes. Wash, drain and chop them 
with a few shallots. Put them into a clean saucepan, cover 
with water, add the juice of a lemon, a sprig of parsley, a 
blade of mace and a few pepper corns. Cook slowly until 
they become tender and the water has evaporated to half. 
Remove from fire, rub through a fine sieve, add the mass to 
Espagnole sauce or strong veal gravy. Season with salt, 
cayenne pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Beat in a lump 
of butter and a glassful of white wine. 

Garnish with button mushrooms cut in slices. 

(See Button Mushrooms Prepared for Sauces.) 
MUSHROOM SAUCE, (White). 

Prepare the stems and trimmings as directed in Brown 
Mushroom Sauco. Add the pulp to some reduced Alla- 
mande sauce. Season and incorporate a lump of butter 
and a glassful of white wine- Garnish with button mush- 
rooms cut in slices. 

MUSHROOMS PLAIN BAKED. 

Select the medium sized open ones. Break off the stems, 
peel and wash in acidulated water. Drain gill side down on 
a clean cloth. Arrange them with the gill side up in a 
shallow saute pan, season with salt and pepper. Put a 
small lump f butter in the center of each. Bake in a slow 
oven about twenty minutes. Baste them at intervals with 
the drawn butter. When done arrange on fancy cut slices 
of toast. Servo on a hot platter, garnishud with a sprig of 
fried parsley. 

MUSHROOMS SAUTE. 

Break off the stems, peel, wash and drain the required 
number of medium size mushrooms. Mince a few shallots, 
put into a saute pan with a lump of butter. Throw in the 
mushrooms. Season with salt, white pepper and a little 
grated nutmeg, cook slowly until they become tender, then 
add a ladleful of veal gravy and simmer for a few minutes 
lorger. Serve on a hot platter or use to garnish steaks and 
chops. 

FRICASSEE OF MUSHROOMS, POULETTE. 

Clean the mushrooms in the usual way. Cut them in dice 
about half an inch square. Mince a few shallots, saute 
them in butter, put in the mushrooms and cook slowly for 
ten minutes, then add some reduced poulette Bauce and 
simmer for twenty minutes longer. Season with salt, white 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 63 

pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Serve in paper cases, 
croustades or Romain cups. 

MUSHROOM OMELET. 

Prepare an omelet in the regular way. Use Fricassee of 
Mushrooms for a filler. 

MUSHROOM PATTIES. 

Prepare some puff paste patties. Fill them with Fricassee 
of Mushrooms, Poulette. Serve. 

MUSHROOMS DRIED. 

In the mushroom season it is always advisable to dry a 
few for summer use. For stews, ragouts, etc., they are 
better than canned. Clean the mushrooms, wash in slightly 
salted water, drain them on a clean cloth. Put a thick 
sheet of Manilla paper on a baking sheet, lay on the mush- 
rooms, dry them in the sun if convenient or cover with a 
paper and set on the shelf of the range to remain until they 
become perfectly dry. Put them into a tin can, cover as 
nearly air tight as possible. Store in a cool place. 

CANNED MUSHROOMS. (Champignons and Cepes). 

A greater part of the canned mushrooms used in this 
country are imported from France and doubtless they are 
the best In the world. Champignons is the French equiva- 
lent for mushrooms, which covers the common edible var- 
ieties. But Cepes are a distinct species of the genus Boletus 
edulis. They grow in abundance in the fields and pastures 
of France. They are also largely cultivated and canned 
in olive oil. Cepes are said to be more savory and better 
flavored than the common Champignons. Canned mush- 
rooms are more extensively used by American cooks than 
the fresh ones, being always convenient and suitable for 
soups, sauces and garnitures. 

CANNED MUSHROOMS FOR STEAKS. 

After opening the can, drain off the liquor into a small 
saucepan or an earthen casserole, reduce it to one-fourth. 
Cut the mushrooms in slices, saute in butter for a few sec- 
onds, add the reduced liquor, a ladlef ul of strong veal gravy 
and a little white wine. Season with salt and Cayenne 
pepper. Dish over the steak. Serve. 

SAUCE OF CANNED MUSHROOMS. (Brown). 

Open the can, drain off the liquor, reduce to half. Cut the 
mushrooms in slices. Saute them in butter, add the reduced 
liquor, a little lemon juice and sufficient Espagnole to make 
the sauce. Season with salt and Cayenne pepper. 

SAUCE OF CANNED MUSHROOMS. (White). 

Prepare the mushrooms and liquor as directed in the 
foregoing, use rich veloute sauce instead of Espagnole. 
Season and add a ladlef ul of mushroom essence if at hand. 

MUSKMELON. 

(Fr. Melon Musquee). (Ger. Bisammelone). 

This is the rich and lucious fruit of a creeping 



64 THE VEST POCKET 

annual garden plant, Cucumis Melo. The musk- 
melon is cultivated in many varieties, such as the 
Hackensack, Paul Rose, Cantaloup, Rocky Ford, 
netted gem, nutmeg, etc. 

While many of these seem to be distinct species, 
they are all bred from the muskmelon and from 
it they derive their most important features. 

(For serving see Cantaloup). 

MUSTARD. 

(Fr. Moutarde). (Ger. Senf). 

The common mustard is a hardy garden plant 
of the genus, Brasstca, of which there are but 
two true species, the black and the white. There 
are quite a number plants of the same family 
called mustard; but none of them are of any 
culinary importance. Black, and white mustard 
is largely cultivated in Europe and America for 
their seeds, which yield about one-fifth their 
weight of volatile and exceedingly pungent oil. 
A paste made of the powdered seeds is a much 
esteemed condiment. The young leaves are 
eaten as a salad and cooked like spinach. 

MUSTARD AND CRESS SALAD. 
Gather the leaves when young and tender. Wash them 
in salted water, drain and press dry in a clean towel. Clean 
a few bunches of cress, pick off the leaves, put them into a 
salad bowl with the mustard- Season with salt and paprica. 
Pour on some olive oil and the juice of a lemon. Gently 
mix with a wooden salad fork. Serve as a breakfast salad. 

ENGLISH MUSTARD. (Plain). 

An Englishman will invariably call for Colman's mustard, 
so it ia advisable to keep a few boxes in stock. Make u thin 
smooth paste of the ground mustard and cold water, add a 
little salt and sugar. Then it Is ready to serve. Mix only 
in small quantities, for it becomes black and unfit to serve 
in a very short time- 

FRENCH MUSTARD. 

Put a pint of white wine into a clean saucepan, add to it 
some mixed spices, a crushed clove of garlic, some celery 
seeds and a little salt. Steep on the back part of the range 
for one hour. Mix a pound of mustard flour to a smooth 
paste with equal parts of cider and tarragon vinegar. 
Strain out the spices from the wine and add to the paste 
while boiling hot. Mix thoroughly and bottle for use. 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 65 

NASTURTIUM. 

(JV. Nasturce au Capucine), (Ger. Kapuzinerkresse) . 

The natural order of this plant is generally 
known as water-cress, although it is but one of 
about twenty species of the genus Trofaeolum. 
Some species are cultivated expressly for their 
gorgeous colored flowers and beautiful light green 
foliage; yet the whole plant is characterized by a 
warm pungent flavor like the cress. It was for- 
merly a native of South America, but is now 
largely grown in all countries having a favorable 
climate. The young leaves and shoots are eaten 
as a salad and the blossoms are used for orna- 
menting, while the young seed pods are pickled 
and used as a substitute for capers. 

NASTURTIUM SAUCE. 
Clean three or four each of young carrots and white tur- 
nips. Cut them in spherical shapes the size of a French 
pea with a small Parisienne cutter. Boil them until tender 
In separate saucepans (add a little vinegar to set the color). 
When done immerge in cold water, drain and mix with a 
like amount of nasturtium pods and French peas. Prepare 
a rich white sauce of chicken or veal stock. Season with 
salt, Cayenne pepper and a little lemon juice. Add the 
mixed vegetables. Serve with fleb, entrees, and boiled 
meats. 

NASTURTIUM AND POTATO SALAD. 
Boil several small potatoes In salted water until done. 
Drain and remove the skins while hot; set aside until they 
become cold. Then cut in thin slices. Gather some nas- 
turtium leaves and blossoms, neatly trim, and wash them 
in salted water. Drain and press dry. Save some of the 
choice leaves and blossoms to garnish top of salad. Cut 
the remaining leaves into shreds, mix with the potatoes, 
season with salt and white pepper. Cut a piece of bacon in 
6mall dice, saute it with some chopped shallots. When they 

, become a golden color add a little cider vinegar, pour it 
over the salad, carefully mix with a wooden salad fork' 
Dish in a pyramid on a salad plate, sprinkle with chopped 
parsley. Garnish top with the nasturtium leaves and blos- 

• urns. Serve. 

NEW ENGLAND BOILED DINNER. 

(By courtesy of Chapin A- Gore, Chicago, who have made it a 
epeciatty for twenty-flve years. > 

Take a well corned brisket of beef, twelve pounds of salt 
pork and a sugar cured liaui, put them into a large sauce- 






66 THE VEST POCKET 

pan and cover with cold water. When they have boiled two 
hours add ten or twelve rutabagas cut In quarters, eight 
medium sized heads of cabbage, and twelve or fifteen car- 
rots, (whole). 

Wash a dozen blood beets, put them into a saucepan, 
cover with some of the meat stock, boil. When done rub off 
the skin. 

When the rutabagas, cabbage and carrots are nearly 
done add a peck of small white onions and the same amount 
of medium size peeled raw potatoes. 

When all the vegetables and meat is cooked, remove the 
saucepan from the fire. Take out the meat, trim it for 
carving. Drain the vegetables on a colander, lay them 
separate on the steam-table platters. Dish some of each 
vegetable to a portion, laying a thin slice of the corned 
beef, pork and ham over the top. Garnish with the beets 
cut in fancy shapes. Serve- 

NUTMEG. 

(Fr. Nuscade). (Ger. Muskatennuss). 

Nutmeg is the seed or fruit of the nutmeg 
tree, Myristicafragrans, a native of the Banda 
Islands. It is also cultivated in other tropical 
countries. The fruit grows nearly the size and 
shape of a small pear. 

The fleshy exterior after being dried splits in 
two, releasing the seed, which is enveloped in a 
net-work or aril. (See Mace). 

The Penang nutmeg, which is considered the 
best, yields as high as eight per cent, of pungent 
aromatic oil and upon this, the value is based. 

There are many inferior grades of nutmegs in 
the trade, such as the male and wild nutmeg. 
The kernels of these, however, are long and less 
spherical in shape than the Penang. They are 
also strongly impregnated with turpentine. 

To preserve the nutmeg from the insects pecu- 
liar to their native country they are dusted with 
powdered lime and it is best to wash them in | 
warm water before using. When thev become 
old and dry they lose their aromatic principles, 
so to determine their freshness, stick a pin into 
one and if the oil oozes out it is fresh. The 
flavor of nutmeg is very agreeable to the taste, 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 67 

and : s especially fine for seasoning cream soups, 
sauces and desserts. 

NUT SALADS. 

CHESTNUT SALAD. 
Shell about a dozen sound Italian chestnuts (Marrons), 
blanch and rub off the skin. Boil them in milk until tender, 
then remove from the Are and allow them to cool in the 
milk. Wash two heads of celery. Remove the bones from 
one cooked Fartrldge breast. When the chestnuts have be- 
come cold, drain off the milk and press them dry. Cut the 
Ingredients in dice about half an inch square, put them In 
a salad bowl, season with salt and sweet paprica, add three 
table-spoonsful of mayonnaise dressing and gently mix. 
Dish in a pyramid on a salad plate, with some cooked as- 
paragus tips arranged endwise around the pyramid, leaning 
toward the center. Garnish with nasturtium leaves and 
blossoms. Serve. 

ALMOND SALAD. 
Blanch a half pound of Jordan shelled almonds. Split 
and steep them in milk over night. Cut one cooked chicken 
breast and three heads of celery in small dice. With a 
email tube press out the seeds from a half pound of Malaga 
grapes (leaving them whole). Drain off milk from the al- 
monds and press them dry. Putthe ingredients into a salad 
bowl. Season with salt and white pepper. Mix with may- 
onnaise dressing to which has been added one third Its 
quantity of whipped cream. Dish on a curly lettuce leaf. 
Garnish with cress. Serve. 

WALNUT SALAD. 
Blanch a pound of shelled English or California walnuts- 
Rub off the skin. Put them into a salad bowl, season with 
salt and white pepper. Squeeze on the juice of a lemon, 
cover with an oiled paper, and set In the ice-box to remain 
for two or three hours. Peel and core four large sound 
greening apples, cut in slices crosswise. Lay them on a 
bed of cress. Dish a spoonful of the walnuts on each slice 
and serve. 

PECAN SALAD. 
The same as walnut salad. 

BRAZIL-NUT SALAD. 

Peel off the skin from half a pound of shelled Brazil-nuts. 

Cut them in thin slices, put in a salad bowl, season with 

6alt and sweet paprica, cover with white wine and let them 

macerate over night. Cut a like amount of plain boiled 

Jerusalem artichokes in slices. Drain the wine from the 

nuts into a clean saucepan, reduce it to one-fourth, when 

it becomes cold add to it half a cup of mayonnaise dressing. 

Putthe artichokes with the nuts, mix in the mayonnaise, 

serve on a nest of shredded lettuce. Garnish with capers. 

PISTACHIO NUT SALAD. 

Blanch and pound four ounces of shelled pistachio nuts 



68 THE VEST POCKET 

to a smooth paste in a mortar, Mix with it one coffee cup 
of mayonnaise dressing. Peel and cut six ripe winter 
pears and three heads of celery in small dice. Put them 
Into a bowl, season with salt and sweet paprica. Squeeze 
on the juice of a lemon and put into ice-box to remain until 
they become cold. Then mix in about half the above salad 
dressing. Arrange the salad on curly lettuce leaves. Dish 
over it the remainder of the dressing. Garnish with shreds 
of black truffles and baskets of hard boiled eggs. 8erve. 

OAT. 

(Fr. Avoine). (Ger.Eafer). 

The oat is a well knowu cereal plant, Avena 
satira, cultivated in all cool countries, but most 
extensively in the United States. It is more 
hardy than wheat, but will not ripen as far north 
as barley. 

Oats are principally used for feeding horses 
anr* cattle, yet some of the large white varieties 
are used for human food. Those for this purpose 
are kiln-dried and submitted to a process of mill- 
ing that removes the hulls. 

In form of food it is known as oatmeal (fine 
ground and steel cut), and rolled oats. Oatmeal 
is very nutritious and as a flesh producer it ranks 
high. In Scotland and other parts of Europe 
oatmeal porridge forms the largest part of both 
the rich and poor man's breakfast. In this coun- 
try it is steadily growing in popularity, though 
we have not as yet learned to look upon it as a 
substantial regimen of diet. 

OATMEAL GRUEL. 

Soak some fine ground oatmeal in cold water over night. 
In the morning drain off the water, put in a farina boiler, 
siightly salt and cover with fresh milk. Cook for three 
hours, (add more milk from time to time if necessary). Re- 
move from the fire, press through a clean towel, sweeten to 
taste. For serving cold: pour the unsweetened gruel into 
fancy molds or cups and put in the ice-box to remain until 
it sets like a blanc mange. Serve with sugar and cream. 
OATMEAL PORRIDGE. 

Soak the required amount of steel cut oatmeal in cold 
water over night. In the morniDg put it into a farina' 
boiler, slightly salt, add more water, cook for one hour 
(stir at intervals). Serve in oatmeal bowl with butter, 
sugar and cream. 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 69 

FRIED OAT MEAL MUSH. 

Make a thick mush of rolled oats. When cooked done, pour 
into square tins and put away to pet cold. Then cut in 
6lices. egs.' and lightly bread it. Fry in hot fat. Sprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and serve on a fancy folded napkin. 
ROLLED OATS. 

For the past few years rolled oats have almost entirely 
taken the place of oatmeal. By a process of modern mill- 
ing the oats after being hulled are steamed and passed 
through a number of hot rollers which forms them into 
flakes or wafers. Oats prepared in this way require only 
about thirty minutes' cooking, while it would take at least 
one and a half hours to accomplish the same result with 
oatmeal. 

PORRIDGE OF ROLLED OATS. 

Fill a saucepan, the required size, two thirds full of water, 
slightly salt, and allow it to boil, then stir in the rolled oats 
with a wire whip. When it begins to boil shove back to 
simmer for thirty minutes. Do not stir again, only pass a 
wooden paddle along the bottom to keep It from burning. 

OKRA. 

(Fr. Gombo). (Ger. Ocher oder Ocker). 

This was originally an East India plant, 
Hibiscus, esculent us, but it is now largely culti- 
vated in southern United States and elsewhere. 
The green capsules or pods, which contain an 
abundance of nutritious mucilage, are a highly 
prized vegetable in the south, particularly by the 
Creoles. They are used for seasoning and thick- 
ening soups, stews, and also served as a vegetable. 

DRIED OKRA. 

Pick the pods when young ana tender, thoroughly wash 
in salt water, cut them in slices about half an Inch thick, 
string on a cord and hang In a warm shady place until they 
become perfectly dry, then store for winter use. Powder 
and use for thickening soups and stews. 

OKRA, PLAIN BOILED. 

Select the young and tender pods, cut off the stems, wash 
and steep in cold water for an hour. Drain and plunge 
into a saucepan of boiling salt water. Cook until tender, 
drain, season with salt and pepper: serve whole In a vege- 
table dish with drawn butter to which has been added a 
little lemon juice. 

OKRA AND ENDIVE SALAD. 

Plain boil the okra as in the foregoing. When it is done 
Immerge in cold water, drain and press dry. Clean the en- 
dive in usual way, make a bed of it on a salad plate. Cut 
the okra pods in half lengthwise, neatly arrange them (cut 
6ide up) on the endive. Stone and chop several olives 



70 THE VEST POCKET 

pickled gherkins and a clove of garlic. Add to them some 
olive oil and a little strong cider vinegar. Season with salt 
and Cayenne pepper. Pour over the salad. Sprinkle with 
some chopped sweet herbs. Serve. 

OKRA SAUTE, CREOLE. 

Chop a sound onion and a few cloves of garlic, saute them 
in butter for a few minutes. Add several peeled ripe toma- 
toes (cut in quarters). Simmer for thirty minutes, then 
add as many boiled okra pods as required. Cover the saute 
pan and cook until the mass begins to thicken. Remove 
from the fire, season with salt and red pepper. Dish on 
slices of buttered toast. 

FRIED OKRA PODS. 

Clean and cut off the stem end of several okra pods, wash 
them in cold water. Cook until tender in boiling salted 
water. When done drain on a sieve and put away until 
they become cool. Then split the pods in two lengthwise, 
season with salt and pepper, roll in hour and fry in butter. 
Serve on a fancy folded napkin. The pods can also be 
dipped in batter and fried like fritters. 

OKRA PODS PREPARED FOR GARNISHING SOUPS 
AND STEWS. 

Select the pods that are young and crisp. Thoroughly 
wash them. Cut in slices about half an inch thick. Put 
them into a clean saucepan, pour on enough boiling water 
to cover them, slightly salt and cook until done. Pour into 
a stone jar and put in ice-box to be used when needed. 

Canned okra is prepared In much the same way, except 
it is cooked in the cans and hermetically sealed. 
CHICKEN SOUP WITH OKRA. 

Clean four young chickens, cut them in joints, fry until 
urown in butter with three sound onions cut in slices. Put 
into a saucepan, moisten with a gallon and a half of con- 
somme, add a bouquet of sweet herbs and a half pound of 
rice. Put on the fire and slowly simmer for one hour, then 
add two quarts of okra prepared for soup. Cook fifteen 
minutes longer. Season with salt and Cayenne pepper. 
Serve- 

OKRA SALAD. 

Clean and boll the okra pods. When done, drain and put 
away to cool. Then cut in slices about a quarter of an inch 
thick. Rub a salad bowl with a clove of garlic. Put in 
the okra, add a finely chopped green sweet pepper, some 
freshly grated horseradish, season with salt and white 
pepper. Pour over some olive oil and a little tarragon 
vinegar. Gently mix and serve on a curly lettuce leaf gar- 
nished with a few sprigs of water-cress. 

ONIONS. 

(Fr. Oignons). (Ger. Ziviebeln). 

The onion is a biennial plant of the lily tribe, 
Allium Cefa. It yields a peculiar pungent bul- 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 71 

bous root, which is formed by a series of closely- 
compact coats. The pungency is due to its con- 
taining a small percentage of strong acrid volatile 
oil which is more pronounced in the small red 
varieties than any other. 

The genus Allium, extends to a number of 
other species, such as the leek, garlic, chives, 
shallots and rocambole. These are treated un- 
der their respective names. 

The onion is a native of Egypt, where it is 
said to have been cultivated from a very early 
time. Among the kinds most highly esteemed 
for their size and mild flavor are the Bermuda, 
Spanish, Mexican and California: though none 
are more suitable for general purposes than our 
common native onion. 

The young ones grown from seed are especially 
fine as a relish and for flavoring salads. 

BOILED ONIONS. 

Peel as many medium size common onions as required. 
Blanch in slightly salted water, drain and return to the 
Are in equal parts of milk and water. Boil until tender. 
Take up and serve in a deep vegetable dish with drawn 
butter, cream or white sauce poured over. By blanching 
two or three times the pungency is entirely eliminated; but 
the onion looses nearly all of its nutrient qualities. 
BOILED SPANISH ONIONS. 

Proceed the same as directed in the foregoing, except do 
not blanch them. 

CREAMED SPANISH ONIONS. (1). 
Clean and boil the onions in half milk and water (slightly 
salt) until two-thirds done, then arrange them in a saute 
pan, pour on enough sweet cream to one-third cover them; 
season with salt, white pepper, and butter. Cover with 
an oiled paper and slowly simmer for thirty minutes or 
until thoroughly cooked. Take up with a skimmer, leaving 
the cream on Are to reduce to half. Serve in a deep vege- 
table dish with the reduced cream poured over. 

CREAMED SPANISH ONIONS. (2). 
Peel and cut the onions in slices one-fourth of an inch 
thick, blanch in salted water, drain on a sieve, season with 
salt and white pepper, dust with flour. Put them into a 
saute pan, moisten with a little white broth, put on the fire 
and when they begin to boll add enough sweet cream to 
cover them. Simmer for thirty minutes, gently chafe at 
Intervals to prevent them from bumi n g ; W hen done add a 



72 THE VEST POCKET 

lump of butter. Serve on fancy cut slices of buttered 
toast. 

BAKED ONIONS. 

Clean, blanch and parboil the onions. Arrange on a but- 
tered baking pan. Cover with an oiled paper and brown in 
a slow oven. Serve on a platter. Garnish with croutons 
and sprigs of parsley. 

BRAISED STUFFED ONIONS. 

Select large onions, peel them, scoop out the center of 
each, making quite a large cavity. Blanch them in salted 
water, drain on a colander. Prepare a farce of equal parts 
of cooked beef, raw veal and fat fresh pork. Season with 
salt and paprica, bind with egg yolks. Stuff the onions. 
Arrange them side by side in a buttered saute pan, cover 
and braise in a slow oven for forty minutes. Take up' 
glaze and serve as an entree or use for garnishing other 
dishes. 

BURNT ONION SAUCE. 

Peel and parboil the onions in salted water, drain and 
press dry. Chop them to a pulp, put into a saucepan, add 
a little granulated sugar. Cook the mass slowly until it 
becomes almost black, then moisten with equal parts of 
cold water and strong cider vinegar. When it has become 
liquefied, strain through cheese cloth and add one-fourth 
its quantity of Japanese Soy- Bottle for use. 
PUREE. SOUBISE. 

Peel and blanch the onions, drain, press dry and chop 
very fine- Put into a saucepan, add enough strong chicken 
broth to cover them (the broth should be reduced to a demi 
glaze), simmer until they are thoroughly done. Rub 
through a fine tammy. Add some thick Bechamel sauce, 
thoroughly mix and use as needed. 

ONION SAUCE. 

Prepare a rich sauce poulette, add some puree Soubise 
and a lump of butter. Season to taste. Serve. 
SPANISH ONION SAUCE. 

Add some puree Soubise to Espagnole sauce, season with 
salt, Cayenne pepper and a little burnt onion sauce. 

PUREE OF ONIONS. (Soup). 

Prepare some strong beef bouillon, strain and skim off 
the fat. Put a lump of butter into a saucepan, add to it a 
bouquet of sweet herbs, and flour enough to make a roux- 
Chafe over a hot fire until it becomes a golden color. Add 
the bouillon by degrees. stirring it briskly to make a perfect 
blend; cook for thirty minutes, strain, and add one-fourth 
its quantity of puree Soubise. Thoroughly mix. Season 
with salt and white pepper. Serve with bread 6ippets 
separate- 

ONION SO OP, BRETONNE. 

Clean and slice several red onions. Put them into a 
saucepan with a lump of butter, bouquet of sweet herbs 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 73 

and a ham bone, braise for fifteen minutes. Then add 
some navy beans (that have been soaked over night). 
Cover with beef bouillon and cook until the beans are 
thoroughly done. Remove the ham bone and bouquet, rub 
through a fine sieve, season with salt and white pepper. 
(Add more bouillon if too thick). Serve with croutons. 

SMOTHERED ONIONS. 

Peel the onions, divide In half, and cut in thin slices. 
Put a lump of butter Into a oaute pan, place on the Are, 
throw in the onions and braise them slowly, (chafe the pan 
at frequent intervals to keep them from burning) until 
they become a light brown color. Season and serve as 
required. 

GLAZED ONIONS FOR GARNISHING. 

Select the little silver-skin pickling onions, peel and 
blanch them in salted water. Drain and return to the 
fire In a saute pan with a lump of butter, moisten with a 
little bouillon, cover and slowly simmer for ten minutes. 
Remove the cover, season and sprinkle them witb a little 
powdered sugar. Put in a hot oven to glaze, shake at in- 
tervals to allow them to become glazed all over. Use for 
garnishing beef a la mode and other entrees. 

GLAZED ONIONS, ANOTHER WAY. 
Pick out onions about the size of a walnut. Peel and 
blanch them, drain and press dry. Put them into a saute 
pan. moisten with some veal gravy, cover and simmer until 
done. Season and paint them with drawn butter, shove 
into a hot oven to glaze. Serve as a vegetable, or use for 
garnishing. 

ONION JUICE. 

Peel and grate a large onion on a cheese or lemon grater, 

let the pulp fall into an earthen bowl. Gather Into a ball 

and squeeze through a clean towel. The juice is much used 

for green salads, such as lettuce, endive, etc. 

GREEN ONIONS FOR RELISH. 

Onions grown from the seed are the best for eating green. 

Cut away about half of tte green tops, peel and trim off the 

roots. Steep in cold water for two hours before using. 

Serve covered with crushed ice in a celery dish. 

FRIED ONIONS. 

Peel and cut the onions in slices about a quarter of an 
Inch thick, separate the rings, dip them in milk and then in 
flour. Season with salt and pepper. Fry in hot fat, drain 
on a towel. Serve on a fancy folded napkin. 

FRIED ONIONS, ANOTHER WAY. 
Peel and divide the onions in half, cut in thin slices, put 
into a skillet with some bacon fat. Moisten with a little 
cold water. Cover and cook until they become brown and 
the water has evaporated. Serve with beefsteak, chops, 
and other dishes as may be required. 



74 THE VEST POCKET 

BERMUDA ONIONS AU GRATIN. 

Peel, and boil until done in half milk and water, several 
large Bermuda onions. Drain them on a sieve, cut in half 
crosswise, arrange cut side up on a buttered baking pan. 
Season, and mask them with a spoonful of Bechamel sauce. 
Sprinkle with fresh bread crumbs and bits of butter. Brown 
them in a hot oven. Serve on a platter, garnished with 
sprigs of fried young parsley. 

PICKLED ONIONS. 

Select the small silver skin onions. Peel and trim them 
to the same size. Put into a stone jar and pour over them 
a strong boiling salt brine. Let stand over night. In the 
morning pour off the brine and again heat and pour it over 
the onions. The second morning heat some white wine 
vinegar, steeping in it some white mustard seeds and a little 
grated horse-radish. Drain off the brine and pour the 
boiling vinegar over the onions. When they are cold, 
bottle for use. 

BERMUDA ONIONS DRESSED. 

Peel and slice the onions, steep in salt water for two 
hours, drain and press dry. Put into a salad bowl, season 
with salt, white pepper and a little powdered sugar. Pour 
on some cider vinegar, sprinkle with chopped parsley and 
serve on curly lettuce leaves. 

ONION OMELET. 

Prepare an omelet in the usual way, heat a spoonful of 
puree Soubise. roll it into the omelet and serve while hot. 

ONION CUSTARD FOR SOUPS. 
Prepare a royal custard, season and mix with it some 
puree Soublse. Pour into a mold and poach in the usual 
way. 

OYSTER PLANT. (See Salsify). 

PARSLEY. 

(Fr. Persil). (Ger. Petersilie). 

Parsley is one of the best flavoring herbs known 
to modern cookery. The finely cut and much 
curled aromatic leaves are not only of great im- 
portance in seasoning soups, salads, sauces, en- 
trees, etc., but they are indispensable for garnish- 
ing. It is a biennial umbelliferous plant of the 
natural order Carum Pctroselinum. Most of 
the varieties of this genus are grown for their 
leaves, though there is a species extensively cul- 
tivated in Germany for the spindle shape root 
which is much like the parsnip. 

FRIED PARSLEY. 
Take young parsley, pick off the small branches, wash in 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 75 

water to which has been added a pinch of common soda. 
Press dry, fry In medium hot fat. Drain on a towel and 
use as needed. 

CHOPPED PARSLEY. 

Take a few bunches of freshly gathered parsley, wash 
thoroughly in cold water, trim off the large stems, puc into 
a small wire basket or colander, dip into a saucepan of 
boiling water to which has been added a pinch of soda. 
Then immerge into cold water, drain, press dry and chop 
very fine. Squeeze again in a strong cloth, shake it up 
lightly and put away on a clean platter for use. 

This method is not generally practiced, although when it 
Is required for soups, sauces, salads, stews, etc., a better 
result is obtained. 

CHOPPED PARSLEY (2). 

Take young parsley, wash it in cold water to which has 
been added a pinch of soda. Drain, press dry and chop very 
fine. Squeeze it in a strong kitchen towel saving the juice 
for coloring purposes. 

PARSLEY GREEN. 

From day to day save the juice from the chopped parsley. 
Put it into a stone jar, holding about a quart. Add on the 
first or second day two or three grains of salicylic acid (this 
will prevent It from becoming sour). Cover the jar and set 
on the shelf of range where the temperature is about 10u° 
Fahr. Then each day for a week or so add fresh juice, mix- 
ing well with the old. When the water evaporates and it 
begins to form into a paste, put Into a large neck bottle and 
store for use. 

PARSLEY SAUCE. 

Prepare a white sauce In the usual way, add to it some 
chopped parsley and the juice to color it. Season. 
FAGGOT OF PARSLEY. 

Tie in a bunch or bouquet several sprigs of parsley, a 
sprig of thyme, a small leek studded with three or four 
cloves, a sprig of celery, two bay leaves and a piece of car- 
rot. Draw the string tight enough to hold it in tact so it 
can be removed from the boup or sauce without straining. 

PARSLEY PREPARED FOR GARNISHING. 
Take bunches of parsley, trim off the stems, wash in 
slightly salted water, drain, put into a small colander, set 
it over a water tight vessel, cover the parsley with shaved 
ice. It should be prepared just before the meal and if the 
meal continues for several hours put on more ice. but never 
let It lay in water as the freshness is soon destroyed and it 
becomes slimy and discolored. 

PARSNIP. 

(PV. Panais). {Get-. Paatinake). 

The parsnip is a biennial umbelliferous plant 
Peucedanum sativum. It is cultivated in all 



76 THE VEST POCKET 

temperate countries for the edible fleshy root. 
Some of the wild species are said to be poisonous, 
but in cultivation it becomes a palatable and nu- 
tritious vegetable, both as human food and feed 
for cattle. It is especially valuable as a milk 
producer. 

The roots are also grated to a pulp, fermented 
and made into wine. 

PARSNIPS, SAUTE. 

Scrape the parsnips from the crown down. Trim off the 
tops, cut in pieces about three inches long then slice them. 
Wash, and steep in salt water for an hour Drain, and 
boil until tender in acidulated water. Drain on a colander. 
Season with salt and a little lemon juice. Saute in butter 
for a few minutes without browning. Serve in a deep vege- 
table dish. 

MASHED PARSNIPS. 

Scrape and wash the parsnips as directed in the forego- 
ing. Boil in salt water (add a little vinegar) until perfectly 
done. Strain off the water and leave the parsnips in sauce* 
pan on back part of the range to evaporate some of the 
excess moisture. Add a lump of butter, season with salt 
and a little white pepper, mash to pulp and serve as a vege- 
table, or garnish for boiled meats. 

FRIED PARSNIPS PLAIN. 

Scrape and wash the parsnips, cut in pieces two or three 
inches long, then in slices about half an Inch thick. Boil 
until done in salt water. Drain, season with lemon juice 
and salt, dip each piece into a basin of milk, roll in flour 
and fry in deep grease until they become a golden brown. 
Serve on a folded napkin. 

PARSNIPS FRIED IN BATTER. 

Prepare the same as for Plain Fried, except dip in French 
frying batter. Fry like fritters. Serve on a folded napkin 
garnished with sprigs of fried parsley. 

PEANUTS. 
(Fr. Arachides). (Ger, Erdnusae). 

The peanut or groundnut is a peculiar twining 
plant Arachis hyfogaea. It bears small bright 
yellow flowers on a long stalk, which after flower- 
ing curls down forcing the unmatured seed-pods 
into the ground where they ripen. The fruit 
when ripe is a hard fibrous pod containing from 
one to three seeds enveloped in a light brown 
skin. The peanut is doubtless a native of Amer- 
ica, though they are extensively cultivated in 



VEGETABLE EOOX. 77 

Africa and other hot countries. In Virginia, 
Carolina and Tennessee peanut growing is quite 
a large industry. An enormous amount of them 
are consumed every year. The greater part are 
eaten when roasted. 

Some are shelled and used by confectioners as 
a substitute for almonds. 

A larger part of the so called palm oil of com- 
merce is pressed from peanuts. 

SALTED PEANUT3. 
Take the large Virginia shelled peanuts, spread them out 
on a baking sheet, set into a slow oven to remain until the 
skin has turned a dark brown and commenced to loosen 
from the nut. Take out; when they become cool enough to 
handle rub off the skin. Put them on another pan, cover 
with a damp cloth and set aside for an hour. Then sprinkle 
with salt and dry in a slow oven for a few minutes. Serve 
in paper cases like salted almonds. 

PEAS. 

(Fr. Pois). (Ger. Erbaen). 

The cultivation of peas dates from the ancient 
Greeks and Romans. They are yet more widely 
known the world over than potatoes. The com- 
mon edible species now universally grown are of 
the genus Pisum sativum, and, while there are 
more than a thousand varieties none of them 
differ to any great extent in natural composition. 
Peas are usually eaten green as a fresh vegetable 
and when ripe they are split and used for soups, 
purees, or ground into meal. The fresh ones 
are in season from January to October. Our 
home grown are the best. When shipped from 
the South they invariably become heated in trans- 
portation and seldom reach the northern market 
in perfect condition. Our native canned peas 
are often preferable to the fresh ones. French 
peas (petits pois) are rapidly decreasing in popu- 
larity on account of being artificially colored. 

BOILED GREEN PEAS. 

Peas should be gathered early in the morning while wet 

with dew. Shell and rinse in cold water, the defective 

ones will rise to the top and can be easily skimmed off. Put 

a sauce pan half full of water on the fire, add to it a little 



THE VEST POCKET 



salt, and a bouquet consisting of one sprig of mint, one 
small green onion and four sprigs of parsley. When it 
boils throw in the peas and cook uDtil tender. Take out the 
bouquet, drain off the water and use as directed in the 
following recipes. 

GREEN PEAS IN CREAM. 

Simmer boiled green peas for ten minutes in sweet cream, 

season with butter, salt and a little white pepper. Serve in 

a deep vegetable dish. If they are off in flavor a little sugar 

will improve them. 

GREEN PEAS IN BUTTER SAUCE. 
Put a lump of butter into a saucepan, add enough flour to 
make a smooth roux. Add some white slock (a little at a 
time) until it becomes a thin white sauce. Put the peas 
into a clean saucepan, strain on the sauce, simmer for ten 
minutes. Season with salt and white pepper. Serve on a 
platter garnished with fancy croutons. 

GREEN PEAS, SAUTE WITH BACON. 

Cut a piece of bacon in small dice, saute it with a few 
chopped shallots. When they become a golden color, pour 
off some of the fat, moisten with a little white broth. Add 
a bouquet of sweet herbs and some finely shredded hearts 
of lettuce. Put in some shelled (raw) green peas, cover the 
saute pan and simmer slowly until the peas are done. Re- 
move the bouquet, season, and serve in a hot vegetable 
dish. 

GREEN PEAS FOR GARNISHING. 

Put a lump of butter into a saute pan, when it is melted 
put in the required amount of boiled green peas. Simmer 
until they become hot, season with salt, white pepper and 
a pinch of sugar. Sprinkle with finely chopped young 
parsley and serve in paper cases with spring lamb or 
entrees. 

GREEN PEAS, OLD FASHION. 

Shell some young green peas, wash them in cold water, 
skim off the ones that rise to the top, drain. Remove the 
heart of several heads of cabbage lettuce without detaching 
the outside leaves. Wash thoroughly and press dry. Fill 
the cavity with the peas, tie the head securely together 
with white twine. Put a lump of butter into a deep saute 
pan, put on fire, when butter has melted, arrange the stuffed 
heads in pan. Moisten with white broth, cover the pan and 
place in a slow oven to remain until the peas are tender. 
Take out, remove the cord, gently open the lettuce leaves, 
season the peas with drawn butter to which has been 
added some salt, white pepper and a little sugar. Ar- 
range the heads on a hot platter, pour over the remaining 
liquor. Serve. 

GREEN PEAS, PATSANNE. 

Cut several small young carrots, a little cabbage, and 
some lettuce into sma.ll dice. Braise with a lump of butter 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 79 

for fifteen minutes without browning. Add the shelled 
(raw) green peas, moisten with a little consomme. Cover 
•the saucepan and cook until the peas are tender. (Chafe 
at frequent intervals to prevent them burning). Season 
with salt and white pepper. Serve on a hot platter, sprinkled 
with chopped parsley. 

PUREE OF GREEN PEAS, CONDE. 
Simmer the required amount of boiled green peas in a 
little sweet cream until they become quite soft, remove the 
pan from the fire, rub through a fine sieve. Season with 
"salt, white pepper and a little sugar. Put the mass into a 
stone jar, set in bain-marie. Beat into it a lump of butter. 
Serve with entrees and other meat dishes. 

PUREE OF GREEN PEAS, ST. GERMAIN. 

Put some shelled (raw) green peas into a saucepan, add 
to it a faggot of sweet herbs containing a sprig of mint. 
Cover them with chicken broth, cook until tender. Then 
,remove the faggot and rub the peas through a fine sieve- 
Put the mass into a stone jar, add to it an equal quantity of 
boiling sweet cream. Season with salt, white pepper and a 
little sugar. Garnish with chicken quenelles. Serve. 

* GREEN PEA SOUP, HOME STYLE. 

Take about a quart of (raw) green peas. Put them into a 
saucepan with a lump of butter, one small onion (minced) 
a few sprigs of parsley and a sprig of fresh mint. Braise 

wthem for a few minutes over a slow fire. Cover with hot 
water and simmer until they are done. Remove from the 
fire and rub through a fine tammy. Put the mass into a 
clean saucepan, add one quart of strong veal broth, gently 

t boil up. Season with salt and white pepper. Beat in a 
lump of butter the size of an egg. Serve with thin slices of 
dry toast separate. 

GREEN PEAS, FRANCAISE. 

, Take some shelled green peas, wash and drain them in 
the usual way. Add a lump of soft butter, and with the 
hand rub all through the peas. Put them into a saucepan, 
cover with cold water and simmer until tender. Then strain 

.off the liquor into a clean saucepan and reduce it to hall- 
Thicken it lightly with a little plain roux and strain over 
the peas. Add a small piece of chicken glaze- Season with 
salt, sugar, and a dash of Cayenne pepper. Serve with 

| chops, cutlets, or as a vegetable. 

BOILED GREEN PEA3, SUPREME. 
Gather the young smooth pods early in the morning. 

• Shell, and boil the pods for thirty minutes in water. Strain 
off the liquor and in it boil the peas until tender. Season 
with salt, white pepper and a lump of butter. When cooked 

^in this way the pleasant zest is more pronounced. 

PUREE OF SPLIT PEAS. 
Soak some common yellow tplit peas in cold water four 
or five hours, (add a small lump of sal soda). Blanch and 



80 THE VEST POCKET 

thoroughly wash in cold water, drain. Braise a ham bone, 
an onion, carrot, head of celery and a few mixed spices 
Put iu the peas, cover with half stock and water, cook unti{ 
the peas are tender. Remove from the fire and rub through 
a fine sieve. Return to Are in a clean saucepan, add more 
stock to make It of the proper thickness. Boil up, season 
with pepper and salt. Serve with croutons. For Fridav 
and other fast days. 

GREEN PEA SALAD. 
Pick the green pods when they are very young. Throw 
them into a pan of ice-water, press dry, cut off the ends. 
Put into the salad bowl with the same amount of fresh 
garden-cress. Season with Bait and white pepper. Pour 
over some French salad dressing. Serve in same bowl. 

PENNYROYAL. (See Mint). 

PEPPER. 

(Fr. Poivre). {Ger. Pfeffer). 

The common black pepper of commerce is the 
fruit of a plant of the genus Piper nigrum. It 
furnishes us in the form of berries an aromatic 
and pungent condiment which is and has been 
since ancient times the most popular of all the 
spices. The spikes are gathered when the berries 
begin to turn red, then the berries are rubbed off 
and dried for use. 

White pepper is made by bleaching or remov- 
ing the outside layers of the black pepper. In 
this form it is less pungent and more useful for 
seasoning dishes of white appearance. 

The shot-pepper of Sumatra is said to be the 
most valuable. But when ground it is largely 
adulterated with cheaper varieties. 

Long pepper {Piper longum) is a well known 
article in the trade and doubtless more plentiful 
than any other. (See Green Peppers). 

PEPPERMINT. (See Mint). 

PISTACHIO— NUT. 

(Fr. Noix du Pistachier). (Ger. Pistazienuss). 

This is the fruit or seeds of the Pistacia vera. 
The tree is a native of Western Asia, the Canary 
Islands and Mexico. The nuts are of a greenish 
color and have something of an almond flavor. 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 8l 

Pistachio nuts are extensively consumed by the 
Greeks and Turks as a dessert and in the manu- 
facture of confections. Of late they have become 
very popular in this country for preparing dainty 
nut salads. They are also pounded to a paste 
and mixed with farces for making sandwiches. 

POKEBERRY OR POKEWEED. 

(Fr. Raisin de Phytolaque). (Ger. Kermesbeere) . 

The species of this plant most commonly known 
in this country is of the genus Phytolacca escu- 
lenta. Although there are about twenty varieties 
in different parts of the world known to botanists. 
Phytolacca esculenta, bears dark purple juicy 
berries which is said to be used in Portugal for 
coloring wine. The roots and berries are also 
used in medicine, and the young shoots are cooked 
and eaten like asparagus. 

POPPY. 

(Fr.Pavot). {.Ger. Mohn). 

The poppy of America is a showy herb of the 
genus Papaver. It is principally cultivated in 
gardens for its flowers, and from some species, 
opium is obtained from the milky juice. In 
Europe poppy-oil is used for adulterating olive 
oil. The seeds are also highly favored by the 
Jews for sprinkling over a particular kind of roll 
called Mohnsemmel. 

POTATO. 

(Fr. Pomme de Terre). (Ger. Kartoffle). 

The potato is a plant of the Nightshade family 
or better known to botanists as Sola?iu?n tuber- 
osum. The edible farinaceous tubers next to the 
cereals form the most important vegetable food 
of civilized man. 

The plant is said to be a native of Peru, Chili, 

, and Mexico. But the British Islands are doubt- 
less deserving of the credit of perfecting, through 
cultivation, many of the now popular varieties. 

^The tops or vines contain a poisonous substance 



82 THE VEST POCKET 

known as solanine; this, however, is not present 
in the tubers except when they are exposed to the 
sun. The real nutritive value of potatoes, taking 
them from an economical standpoint, is very- 
much overestimated as compared with other 
farinaceous foods. It is said by scientists that it 
takes from three to three and a half pounds of 
potatoes to supply the same amount of carbon 
and nitrogen contained in one pound of bread. 
Assuming this correct, potatoes are less than one- 
third the nutritent value of bread. But there is 
no doubt that when they are eaten with meat and 
other nitrogenous food they serve to make up a 
very wholesome diet. Potatoes are employed in 
the manufacture of starch, glucose and spirits. 

BOILED POTATOES IN JACKET3. 

Select the potatoes of uniform size, wash and scrub them 
n cold water until perfectly clean. Put them into a sauce- 
pan, cover with hot water, add a pinch of salt and boil 
slowly. When done drain off the water, cover with a clean 
cloth and place on the back part of the range to dry for a 
few minutes. Serve In a fancy folded napkin or use as 
directed in other recipes. 

BOILED POTATOES PEELED. 

Wash and peel the potatoes very thin, drop them into a 
pan of cold water, drain and proceed the same as directed 
in the foregoing. Serve on a folded napkin with drawn 
butter in a sauce bowl. 

BAKED POTATOES. 

Select medium large potatoes of uniform size, wash and 
scrub them very clean, lay on a pan. Bake them in a med- 
ium oven for forty minutes, or until done. Serve in a fancy 
folded napkin. 

MASHED POTATOES. 

Wash and peel the potatoes, cut the larger ones in two 
making them all as near of a size as possible. Put into a j 
saucepan, cover with hot water, add a little salt and boil 
until they are soft. Then drain off the water, replace the 
cover and let stand on tlie range fur a few minutes to eva- 
porate some of the moisture. Press through a potato i 
masher, season with salt and a lump of butter, stir until 
the seasoning is thoroughly mixed, then beat in sufficient 
boiling milk to make them a creamy mass. Serve in a vege- . 
table dish neatly formed into a pyramid. 
BROWNED POTATOES. 

Select medium size sound potatoes. Peel them the same 
as one would peel an apple. Arrange them on a baking pan, , 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 83 

seaeon with salt, brush them over with butter or meat drip- 
pings. Bake in a slow oven until done. (Shake the pan 
occasionally to make them uniformly brown.) Serve in a 
folded napkin or with short-ribs and other entrees. 
POTATOES RISSOLES. 

Select potatoes about the size of a hen's egg. Wash and 
scrub them in cold water. Boil them in their jackets. Set 
aside until they become cool. Then carefully remove the 
skins without disfiguring the meat. Immergo in hot fat 
until they become a golden color. Serve in a folded napkin 
or in a covered vegetable dish. 

IMITATION NEW POTATOES. 

Pick out the small round ripe potatoes, wash and peel them 
the same as new potatoes. Put them into a cheese cloth 
sack, tie the top. Have ready a saucepan containing 
enough of equal parts of milk and water (slightly ealted) 
to cover the potatoes. 8immer slowly until they are done 
Lift out the sack, allow them to drain on a colander for a 
few minutes, then place in the oven to dry for five minutes. 
Prepare a rich cream sauce seasoned with butter and salt- 
Remove potatoes from the sack, put them in a stone jar 
and cover with the sauce. Serve in a deep vegetable dish. 
POTATOES SPECIAL BAKED. 

Bake medium large size potatoes. When done cut off a 
piece lengthwise to form a cover. Then dig out the inside, 
which press through a potato masher, season with salt, 
butter and a little sweet cream. Stuff the shells, place on 
cover, and bake for ten minutes in a slow oven. Serve on a 
fancy folded napkin. 

POTATOES SOUFFLES. 

Select medium size potatoes; clean, and cut a piece from 
one end to make them stand up. Bake in usual way. When 
done cut off the opposite end, and remove the inside, which 
press through a potato masher, season with salt and butter. 
Separate the required number of eggs (ten eggs to twenty 
potatoes), drop the whites into a beating kettle and the 
yellows into the pan containing the potatoes, mix thor- 
oughly. Whip the whites to a stiff froth, stir them into the 
mass with a palette knife, being careful not to break the 
consistency. Stuff the skins, arrange them endwise on a 
pan, bake In a slow oven for fifteen minutes. Serve on a 
folded napkin. 

GERMAN FRIED POTATOES. 

Boil the potatoes in their jackets. When they are cold 
remove the skins and cut in slices about half an inch thick. 
Put into a shallow skillet with sufficient drippings to fry 
them. Season with salt and a little white pepper. Fry 
slowly (tossing at frequent intervals) until they become a 
golden brown. Serve on a hot platter garnished with a 
sprig of fried parsley. 

FRENCH FRIED POTATOES. 

Peel medium size potatoes, drop them into a tub of cold 



84 THE VEST POCKET 

water. Take out, cut in pieces about half an inch square 
and three inches long. Put them into a French frying 
basket, immerge in hot lard or clarified beef suet, cook until 
they are soft. Hook up the basket to allow the fat to be- 
come smoking hot, then let them down in the fat to remain 
until they are brown. Turn out on a clean kitchen towel, 
season with salt. Serve on a fancy folded napkin. 

POTATO CROQUETTES. 

Peel and mash the potatoes in usual way. Season with 
salt, butter and a little white pepper. While they are hot 
beat in several egg yolks. Then form them into balls the 
size of a small apple, roll in flour, egg and bread in fresh 
bread crumbs. With the thumb make an impression in 
each, making them resemble an apple. Brown in hot fat 
Serve on a fancy folded napkin with a sprig of parsley in- 
serted in the impression. 

POTATO CAKES. 

Prepare the potatoes as directed in the foregoing, except 
form them into thick round cakes. Roll in flour and check 
the top with a knife. Fry in shallow grease. Serve on a 
hot platter with parsley. 

POTATOES SAUTE. 

Boil the potatoes in their jackets: when they have become 
cold remove the skins, slice and gently toss over the fire in 
clarified butter. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve on 
a hot platter. 

POTATOES, LYONNAISE. 

Saute some minced onions in butter until they are a 
golden brown color. Then add some cold boiled potatoes 
thinly sliced or minced. Toss gently over the fire until 
they are thoroughly heated through. Form against the 
side of the pan omelet shape. When brown turn on a hot 
platter. Serve- 

POTATOES HASHED BROWN. 

Mince some cold boiled potatoes. Season and saute in 
butter. Form them omelet shape. When brown, turn on a 
hot platter, garnish with parsley. Serve. 
POTATOES AU GRATIN. 

Mince some cold boiled potatoes, mingle with them some 
rich cream sauce, season with salt, butter and a little Cay- 
enne pepper. Add a handful of grated American cheese, 
mix thoroughly. Put into gratin dishes, smooth down with 
a palette knife. Sprinkle with fresh bread crumbs and bits 
of butter. Brown in a hot oven. Serve in same dish. 
STEWED POTATOES. 

Cut some cold boiled potatoes in dice about half an inch 
square. Put them into a stone jar. Pour over some rich 
cream sauce (not too thick). Season with salt and butter. 
Serve in a deep vegetable dish. 

HASHED POTATOES IN CREAM. 

The same as the above except mince the potatoes. 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 85 

STEWED POTATOES IN CREAM. 
► Cut raw potatoes in dice a half inch square. Put them 
into a clean saucepan, cover with rich sweet cream. Sim- 
mer slowly until the potatoes are cooked. Season with salt 
and a lump of butter. Serve in a deep vegetable dish. 
» BROWNED MASHED POTATOES. 

Prepare the potatoes the same as for mashed. Put them 
into gratin dishes, form into a scalloped pyramid, sprinkle 
with drawn butter. Brown In hot oven. Serve in same 
4 dish. 

BROILED POTATOES. 
Peel several medium size potatoes, cut them lengthwise 
in slices about half an inch thick. Season with salt, dip 
jrfinto clarified butter. Arrange on a hand oyster broiler. 
Broil over a slow fire until done (brush occasionally with 
butter). Serve on a folded napkin garnished with a sprig 
of fried parsley. 
' MASHED POTATOES FOR BORDERS. 

Preparu the potatoes the same as directed for croquettes, 
adding whole eggs instead of yolks. Thoroughly grease the 
border molds with drawn butter. Sprinkle with fresh bread 
'"crumbs, fill them with the potatoes pressed in smoothly 
Bake in a slow oven for twenty minutes. Take out the 
molds, set aside to slightly cool. Then loosen the edges 
with a knife, unmold on a hot platter. Serve as the occas- 
j« sion may require. 

PUREE, JACKSON. 

Mince a small onion, sprig of celery and a leek, braise in 

butter a few minutes without browning. Add several 

,l*peeled raw potatoes, cover with strong veal stock. Add a 

faggot of herbs, simmer until the potatoes are thoroughly 

done. Remove the faggot and rub the mass through a fine 

sieve. Return it to fire in a clean saucepan. Add one- 

third of its quantity of reduced Bechamel sauce. Season 

** with salt, white pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Serve 

with bread sippets separate. 

POTATO PANCAKE. 
F Peel and grate six large potatoes on a cheese grater. Mix 
with the pulp three-fourths pound of wheat hour, six well 
beaten eggs and a little salt. Fry in shallow fat. Serve as 
I a vegetable or with beef a la mode and other entrees. 
SARATOGA CHIPS. 
Peel medium size potatoes, cut in thin slices with a Sara- 
toga chip machine. Let them stand in ice water for two or 
three hours. Drain on a colander, plunge into clean hot 
lard and fry until crisp. Take out, drain on a towel, salt, 
and serve while hot. To make Saratoga chips perfect the 
""•* potatoes must be of a white variety and perfectly ripe. 
POTATO SALAD, HOME STYLE. 
Boil several small potatoes in their jackets. When they 
are cold remove the skins and cut in thin slices. Put them 
4 



86 THE VEST POCKET 

into a salad bow), add sliced cucumbers, sliced hard boiled 
eggs and some minced onion. For twelve persons take 
twelve 6mall potatoes, three hard boiled eggs, one cucumber 
and one onion the size of an egg. 

DRESSING. Scald one cup of cider vinegar in a farina 
boiler. Mix one teaspoouful of flour with water, one table- 
spoonful of sugar, butter the size of an egg, one small 
spoonful of mixed mustard and two table-spoonfuls of 
Durkee's salad dressing. Add to the boiling mixture, and 
beat until it becomes a creamy mass, tben add three well 
beaten eggs and whip vigorously. Season with salt and 
white pepper. When it has become cold add one cup of 
thick sweet cream. Mix with the salad just before serving. 
POTATO SALAD, PLAIN. 

Boil the potatoes in their jackets; when cold remove the 
skin, cut in thin slices. Put into a salad bowl, add some 
minced onion. Season with salt and Cayenne pepper. Pour 
over some French salad dressing, mix and serve on acurley 
lettuce leaf. 

POTATO AND HERRING SALAD. 

To plain potato salad add some picked marinaded herring 
Serve. 

POTATO SALAD, GERMAN STYLE. 

Slice cold boiled potatoes. Put tueui in a salad bowl, add 
some minced onions, shredded lettuce and chopped parsley. 
Season with salt and paprica. Cut a piece of bacon Into 
shred*, fry it to a golden color, add some elder vinegar and 
pour it while hot over the salad. Thoroughly mix by toss- 
ing it in the bowl. Sprinkle with chopped chives and serve 
on a salad plate- 

NEW POTATOES. 

Wash and scrape off the skins of the potatoes, plunge 
them into a tub of cold water. (If they do not scrape easily 
pare them very thin). Boil in salt water until soft, drain 
and set back on range, covered with a towel to dry for a 
few minutes. Serve plain or with rich cream sauce- 
POTATOES FOR GARNISHING. 
POTATOES A L'ANGLAISE. 

Select potatoes about the size of a guinea's egg. Wash 
and boll them in their jackets; when done allow them to 
get cool. Then remove the skins, cut in quarters length^ 
wise. Cut a piece of bacon in shreds, fry for a few minutes 
in a skillet, throw in the potatoes, saute until they are a 
light brown. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve. 
POTATOES, AURORA. 

Cut large potatoes in slices a half inch thick. With a 
column tube a fourth of an inch in diameter stamp thein. 
out. Simmer until done in a sauce made of equal parts of 
Espagnole. Allemande and tomato sauce, to which add a 
piece of lobster butter, some lemon juice and a little sweet 
paprica. 



, 






VEGETABLE BOOK. 87 

POTATOES, A1GUILLETTE. 

Cut cold boiled new potatoes in dice a half inch square* 
Run them on a small tooth pick with a narrow strip of 
bacon woven between each piece. Inimerge in clean hot 
goose fat, fry until brown. Season and roll in chopped 
chives. 

POTATOES, BOULETTES. 

Scoop out little balls of raw potatoes the size of a large 
pill. Put into a saucepan with a lump of butter and a small 
piece of chicken glaze, put on cover, simmer until they are 
done. Season with salt, sprinkle with powdered parsley. 
Serve. 

POTATOES, BONNE FEMME. 

Pick out small potatoes about the size of a marble. Boil 
in liieir jackets; when cool remove the skins. Mince an 
onion, saute in butter, throw in the potatoes, cook until they 
are heated through. Sprinkle with fresh bread crumbs. 
Season and shove into a hot oven to brown. Serve. 

POTATOES, BRABANT. 

Cut raw potatoes in dice an inch square. Boil in salted 

water, drain on a sieve. Saute some minced shallots in 

olive oil. Throw in the potatoes, toss until they become 

heated through. Season and sprinkle with chopped parsley. 

POTATOES, BRETONNE. 

Cut small boiled new potatoes in slices. Mince an onion, 
a sprig of celery and a fresh mushroom. Saute in butter, 
add a little cider vinegar, throw in the potatoes. Season 
with salt and white pepper. Simmer until heated through. 
Serve. 

POTATOES, CHARLSRUHE. 

Cut cold boiled potatoes In thin slices. Saute some minced 
onions with a lump of butter. When they are a light brown, 
put in some flour, thoroughly blend, and dilute with sweet 
cream. Put in the potatoes, season and simmer until 
heated. Shred and blanch a piece of honeycomb tripe. 
Slice the same amount of cooked pork sausage, add to the 
potatoes. Fill into stiff paper cases, sprinkle with fresh 
bread crumbs and bits of butter. Brown in a hot oven. 
Serve. 

POTATOES, CHATEAU. 

Pass several peeled raw potatoes through a column tube 
about three-fourths of an inch in diameter. Cut them In 
equal lengths and taper the ends with a chateau knife. 
Boil in salt water. When done, drain. Lay In a pan 
sprinkled with grated American cheese. Put Into a hot 
oven to remain until the cheese has melted. Dust with 
powdered chives. Serve. 

POTATOES, CHIPOLATA. 

Peel small potatoes about the size of a hen's egg. Dig 
out the center with a vegetable scoop. Insert in the cavity 
a Chipolata sausage; plug up the hole. Arrange in a saute 



88 THE VEST POCKET 

pan, brush with butter, season, moisten with a little stock, 
braise until done. Then remove the cover and brown in a 
hot oven. Serve. 

POTATOES, CHIFFONADE. 

Cut several cold boiled new potatoes in slices a quarter 
of an inch thick, and the same amount of cold boiled beets. 
Lay the slices on a clean kitchen towel. Stamp them out 
with a column tube, run them alternately on a tooth pick. 
Shred some cabbage lettuce, make a bed of It on a salad 
plate. Lay on the potatoes and beets, remove the tooth- 
pick. Dress with a spoonful of thin ravigote sauce. Gar- 
nish with stoned olives and small gherkins cut fan shape. 
Serve. 

POTATOES A LA CREME. 

Cut cold boiled potatoes in Bmall dice. Simmer in thick 
sweet cream for a few minutes; slightly thicken with corn- 
starch. Season with butter, salt and white pepper. Serve. 

POTATOES, CREOLE. 

Cut raw potatoes in slices an inch thick. Stamp them 

out with a column tube. Boil until about half done in salt 

water; finish by simmering in Creole sauce; season and 

serve. 

POTATOES, COLBERT. 
Cut raw potatoes In dice about half an inch square. Par- 
boil and finish cooking In Colbert sauce. Roll them in 
chopped chives. Serve. 

POTATOES, DAUPHINE. 

Bake several large potatoes. When done, dig them out 
and press through a fine sieve. Season with butter, salt 
and Cayenne pepper. Add to the mass some grated Amer- 
ican cheese and sufficient eg? yolks to bind the mass. Flour 
the pastry board and form in small cutlets. Check the top 
with the back part of a knife. Arrange on a buttered bak- 
ing pan, and brush over with beaten egg yolks. Bake in a 
slow oven. Serve. 

POTATOES, DUCHESSE. 

Prepare a potato croquette mixture. Add to it a few 
beaten eggs. Slide a star tube into an ornamenting sack. 
Put In the mixture, force it out in rosettes on a greased and 
dusted baking pan. Bake in a slow oven until the edges of 
the leaves become brown. Serve. 

POTATO DUMPLINGS. 
Boil and mash some potatoes. Mix with the mass a few 
beaten eggs. Season with salt, butter and white pepper. 
Add enough flour and the proper amount of baking powder 
to form them into dumplings. Poach in boiling water until 
done. Serve at once. 

POTATOES, EPICUREAN. 

Cut some small new potatoes in thin slices, put them into 
a saute pan, moisten with white stock. Season with butter, 



VEGETABLE BOOK. gg 

salt and white pepper. Cover and place the pan In oven to 
remain until they are done. Remove the cover, sprinkle 
with grated Parmesan cheese and return to oven for a few 
minutes to melt the cheese. Serve on a hot platter, 
sprinkled with chopped parsley. 

POTATOES EN PAILLES. 
Cut raw potatoes in pieces about the size of a straw. Im- 
merge in hot fat and cook until they become a golden color. 
Drain on a towel. Season and serve on a folded napkin. 

t POTATOES, FRANC Al: IE. 

Scoop out some raw potatoes in shell shape with a scal- 
loped vegetable scoop. Fry in hot fat, drain on a towel, 
season with salt. Serve- 

POTATOES. FANCHONETTES. 
Grease some pattie pans, dust them with cracker meal. 
Line them with a potato croquette mixture. Bake until 
brown in a slow oven. Set aside until they become cool, 
then remove from the tins, place them on a buttered baking 
sheet. Prepare some potatoes the same as for souffles. 
Slide a star tube Into an ornamenting sack, force the mix- 
» ture out in pyramid shape in the cavity of the fanchonettes 
shells. Bake in a slow oven. When done serve imme- 
diately on a folded napkin. 

POTATOES. GASTRONOME. 

i Peel some large potatoes; cut in slices about one and 
one-half inch thick. Stamp out with a column tube, (half 
an inch in diameter). Boil in salted water, drain and press 
dry. Chafe in some melted meat glaze. Sprinkle with 

j» equal parts of chopped red tongue, ham, truffles and canned 
mushrooms. Season with salt and paprica. Serve. 

POTATOES, GENEVOISE. 

Butter some small timbale molds, set in ice-box to chill 

lt the butter, then sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and fill 

with potato croquette mixture- Bake in a slow oven until 

brown, unmold and serve on a hot platter garnished with 

sprigs of fried parsley. 

POTATOES, GEORGETTE. 
Select small potatoes of uniform size. Scrub them per- 
fectly clean. Dig out the inside with a vegetable scoop- 
* drop them into a tub of cold water. Drain, wipe dry and 
stuff with a farce made of minced onions saute, ox-marrow, 
shrimp tails and thick Allemande sauce, season with 
salt, chopped sweet herbs and paprica. Plug up the hole, 
B roast in hot charcoal ashes until done. Dust off the ashes, 
serve on a fancy folded napkin. 
For garnishing fish and entrees the potatoes can be 
I peeled, stuffed and browned in the oven. 

POTATOES, GLAZED. 
Peel small new potatoes about the size of a large marble. 
Lay them on a baking pan. Sprinkle with butter and brown 



90 THE VEST POCKET 

in the oven. When done brush with melted beef glaze, 
season and dry In a slow oven. Serve. 

POTATOES, HOLLANDAISE. 
Peel medium size potatoes. Cut in quarters, then pare 
off the ends to a point. Boil in salted water. When done 
drain, season and sprinkle with butter, chopped parsley^ 
and lemon juice. Serve. 

POTATOES. ITALIENNE. 

Cut in thin slices some cold boiled potatoes. Mince and 
saute an onion in butter, add some chopped ham and 
shredded anchovies. Mix in a spoonful of flour, moisten 
with sweet cream, beat vigorously to make a smooth 
sauce. Butter a gratin dish. Put in a layer of potatoes, 
cover with a spoonful of the sauce and some grated Par- 
mesan cheese. In this way fill the dish alternately with 
layers. Sprinkle top with fresh bread crumbs and bits of 
butter. Bake until brown In a hot oven. Serve in same 
dish. 

POTATOES, JULIENNE. 

Peel large potatoes. Square and cut In very thin slices, 
then in shreds. Immerge in hot fat and fry until crisp; 
drain on a towel. Season and serve. 

POTATOES, LONG BRANCH. 

Peel large potatoes, square the ends and run them through 
along branch potato machine, by which they are cut in 
long strings. Immerge In hot fat and fry until crisp. Drain 
on a towel. Season and serve. 

POTATOES, MA1TRE D'HOTEL. 

Peel small round potatoes, cut in quarters, parboil, drain 
and finish cooking in rich veloute sauce. Season with salt, 
white pepper, lemon juice and grated Parmesan cheese- 
Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve. 

POTATOES, MILANAISE. 

Mince some shallots, a green pepper and a sprig of celery. 
Braise in butter for a few minutes, then add aladlefuleach 
of tomato and Allemande sauce. When it boils, put in 
some small peeled (raw) new potatoes, cover the sauce pan, 
set in the oven to remain until the potatoes are done. 
Season with salt and grated Parmesan cheese- Gently toss 
over the fire until the cheese has become stringy. Sprinkle r 
with chopped parsley. Serve. 

POTATOES, MONACO. 

Peel several large potatoes, cut them In slices about half 
an Inch thick, lay on a towel, stamp out in cresents with a* 
column tube. Then proceed the same as directed for Pota- 
toes, Gastronome. 

POTATOES, NATUREL. 

Select small round potatoes, peel and boil until done in 
salted water. Season, sprinkle with drawn butter and 
chopped parsley. Serve. 






VEGETABLE BOOK. gi 

POTATOES, NAVARRAISE. 
Pare several large potatoes, cut them In slices about an 
Inch thick. Lay them on a towel and stamp them out with 
a column tube an inch In diameter. With a chateau knife 
pare down one end to form a ridged pyramid. Parboil in 
salted water, drain and fry in hot fat. Season and serve. 

POTATO NESTS. 
Select several medium large round potatoes. Wash and 
scrub the potatoes clean. Lay on a pan. bake in the oven. 
When done cut a piece from the top and remove the inside, 
being careful not to break the shell. Pass the in6ide por- 
tion through a potato masher. Season it with salt, white 
pepper and butter. Add some hot cream and enough egg 
yolks to bind the mass. Slide a small plain ornamenting 
tube the size of a straw Into the sack. Put in the mixture 
and proceed to line the shells to resemble a birds nest. 
Bake for five minutes in a hot oven. Fill with small meat 
entrees. Garnish with sprigs of fried parsley. Serve. 

POTATO NOODLES. 
Mash the required amount of white potatoes. Set aside 
to get cold. Season with salt, white pepper and a handful 
of grated Parmesan cheese. Mingle in some beaten eggs 
and sufficient flour to make a thick paste. Proceed the 
same as plain noodles. 

POTATOES, PARISIENNE. 
Peel large potatoes; scoop them out In little balls with a 
plain Parisienne cutter. Fry in hot fat until done. Drain 
on a towel, season with salt. Serve. 

POTATOES, PERSILLADE. 

Pick out small round potatoes of uniform size. Boll in 
half milk and water salted. When done drain, set back on 
range to dry for a few minutes. Season. Sprinkle with 
butter and chopped parsley. Serve. 

POTATO PUFFS. 

Peel small potatoes, cut them in slices about a quarter of 
an inch thick. Put them in a tub and let stand under the 
faucet with the cold water running over them for two or 
three hours. Drain and stew— fry in fat that is not over 
water boiling point. When the potatoes become soft to the 
touch, hang up the basket and shove the fryer on the hot 
fire. When it becomes smoking hot, let in the potatoes, 
stir gently until they puff up like a ball. Drain and serve 
at once on a folded napkin. 

POTATOES. QUENELLES. 

Take a potato croquette mixture, roll it out in small balls. 
Chafe in a pan of dry flour, shake out. Fry in hot lard. 
Serve. 

When potato quenelles are required for soup, add enough 
flour and a little baking powder to keep them from falling 
apart when they are poached. 



92 THE VEST POCKET 

POTATOES, REGENT. 
Boil some new potatoes. When they are done, drain and 
set aside to cool. Then cut in thin slices. Simmer in sweet 
cream, season with salt, butter and white pepper. Add 
enough fresh bread crumbs to absorb the cream. Mingle 
in a beaten egg. Fry in butter omelet shape. Serve. 

POTATO ROLLS. 
Form a potato croquette mixture into small rolls. Egg, 
bread and fry in hot fat. 

POTATOES. ROUENNAISE. 
Form a i otato croquette mixture into small balls. Dip 
into fritter batter. Fry. 

POTATOES, SERPENTINE. 
Cut the potatoes in tlie form of a serpent with a plain 
serpentine cutter. Fry in hot fat, drain, season and sprinkle 
with chopped parsley. Serve. 

POTATO TARTLETS. 
Line some small tartlet molds with thin pie crust. Fill 
thorn with dry beans bake- Prepare the potatoes the same 
as for Regent. Empty out the beans from the tartlets, All 
with the potatoes, sprinkle with crumbs and bits of butter, 
brown in a hot oven. Serve. 

POTATOES, VICTORIA. 
The same as for Rouennaise, except roll the balls in 
chopped chives before frying. 

POTATOES, WINDSOR. 

From peeled raw potatoes scoop out little balls with a 

plain Parisienne cutter. Boil them in salted water, drain 

and toss in butter Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. 

Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve. 

PUMPKIN. 

(Fr. Potiron). (Ger. Pfebe oder Kurbiss). 

The pumpkin is the gourd-like fruit of a num- 
ber of plants of the genus Cucurbita Bepo. The 
fruit of the common sort is an orange yellow when 
ripe. The vines are coarse and hollow, growing 
from twelve to twenty-five feet long. They are 
usually planted in corn fields and when ripe are 
used for feeding stock. The pumpkin was once 
regarded as an important vegetable food, but it 
has been superseded by the squash and vegetable 
marrow; though the esculent portion is something 
of a luxury when cooked to a pulp and made into 
pies. 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 93 

Pumpkins are most plentiful in October and 
November. 

PUMPKIN, PREPARED FOR PIES (1). 

Secure a medium size, ripe sugar pumpkin. Cut in half, 
take out the seeds, then cut in pieces, pare off the skin and 
remove the stringy pulp. Put into a clean saucepan, cover 
with hot water, slightly salt and cook slowly until the 
water has evaporated, and it assumes a light brown color. 
Stir occasionally to prevent it burning at the bottom of the 
pan. Remove from the Are, rub through a fine sieve. Use 
as needed. 

PUMPKIN, PREPARED FOR PIES (2). 

Cut the pumpkin In pieces about four inches square. Re- 
move the stringy pulp, lay on a pan and bake in a slow 
oven until soft. With a spoon dig out the meat, mash 
through a fine sieve and use as required. 

RADISH. 
(Fr. Radis). (Ger. Rettig). 

The radish is a crucifeous plant of the genus 
Rafhanus sativus. It is cultivated for the fleshy 
pungent edible root, which is eaten raw as a salad 
or relish. There is little doubt of the antiquity 
of this plant, for tradition informs us that it was 
much favored by the Egyptians, though the exact 
origin is somewhat obscure. Some of the most 
familiar varieties are the Black and White Span- 
ish (long and round), Celestial, Carmine, Turnip, 
Scarlet China (winter), Early White Turnip, 
White and Scarlet tip, etc. Most of these are 
best when young and crisp, but those grown for 
winter use ate covered with a thick fibrous skin 
which must be removed before eaten. The 
young leaves are cooked for greens, and the pods 
are pickled like capers. 

YOUNG TIPS. (How to Serve). 

Select the bunches that have fresh green leaves. With 
the scissors cut off the small roots from bottoms. Then 
detach the leaf stalks, leaving them about half an Inch 
long. Thoroughly wash, put into a relish dish, cover with 
cracked ice and serve. 

WINTER RADISH. (How to Serve). 

Winter radishes of all varieties must be pared. The thick 
fibrous skin is exceedingly pungent and unpalatable. If 
large, split them In half, and steep in salted water an hour 
before serving. 



94 THE VEST POCKET 

RED CABBAGE. 
(See Cabbage). 

RHUBARB. 

(Fr. Rhubarbe). (Ger. Ehabarber). 

Rhubarb is the common name of a number of 
plants of the genus Rheum. The garden rhubarb, 
of which the leafstalks are used as a substitute 
for fruit in making pastries, is said to be a native 
of Central Asia. 

RICE. 

( Fr . Riz ) . ( Ger. Rets ) . 

The article familiarly known to cooks and 
housewives as rice is the cleaned or hulled grain 
of an important member of the cereal grass family, 
Oryza sativa. In the natural state it is envel- 
oped in a coarse fibrous husk. Through a pro- 
cess of milling the husks are removed leaving the 
grain in pearl-like kernels, which differ in size, 
shape and color according to the variety and loca- 
tion in which it is grown. Some of the well 
known products made from rice are sugar, starch, 
flour and a distilled liquor called "Japanese 
sake". Rice is extensively cultivated in India, 
Australia, China, Brazil, Italy, Spain and South- 
ern United States. The largest quantity, how- 
ever, is produced in Carolina and Georgia, and 
the American rice leads the world in quality. 
Rice contains about 80 per cent, starch, but is 
devoid of flesh forming material. For which rea- 
son it does not form a complete diet without 
eggs, flesh or pulse. 

It nevertheless constitutes the principal food 
of over one-third of the human race, making it 
more largely consumed than any other cereal. 

BOILED RICE. 
Wash one pound of rice by putting it in a fine sieve, and 
immerging it several times in a pan of cold water ; or let 
the cold water from the hydrant run over it. Put a quart 
of water into a saucepan, slightly salt, and set on the fire, 
When it boils, put in the rice and slowly boil for twenty min- 
utes, then shove to the back of the range to evaporate the 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 95 

moisture. Serve as a vegetable, or use as dirscted iu the 
following recipes. 

STEAMED RICE. 
After washing a pound of rice, put it into a stone jar 
slightly salt, and pour on one quart of water. Cover the 
jar and set it in the steamer. Turn on the steam and let 

* cook for thirty minutes. Take off the cover and stir It from 
the sides and bottom of jar. Cover and finish cooking 
Serve plain or with sugar and cream. 

FRIED RICE. 
Wash and boil the rice in the usual way. When thor- 
oughly done beat in a few egg yolks. Turn out into a 
greased mold, allow It to become cold, then cut In slices, 
roll in flour and fry In hot fat. Sprinkle with powdered 
' sugar. Serve. 

FRIED RICE CAKES. 
The same as Fried Rice, except form the rice into cakes. 
|T RICE FRITTERS. 

Wash a pound of rice. Put into a stone jar and pour on 
a quart of milk. Add eight ounces of sugar and the grated 
rind of a ripe lemon. Cover and steam until It becomes a 
fl thick mass. Bind with four egg yolks. 

Dust a shallow pan with flour, spread the mixture an Inch 
thick over the pan and set aside to cool. Then cut in cir- 
cles, diamond or square. Dip in French fritter batter, fry 
« In hot fat. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and ornament 
with currant jolly. Serve while hot. 

RICE CROQUETTES. 
The same mixture as for fritters. Form it Into fancy 

* shapes as pyramids, pear-shape, or to represent anything 
desired. Ro'l in flour, fry in hot fat. Sprinkle with pow- 
dered sugar. Servo with sweet sauce. 

RICE PYRAMIDS EN SURPRISE. 
^ Fill a squaro pyramid mold with some plain boiled rice 
With the handle of a wooden spoon press a hole in the 
bottom, forming a shell. Fill the cavity with forcemeat or 
any small meat entree desired. Unmold on a hot platter, 
? with an appropriate sauce poured around them. 
CURRIED RICE. 
Wash and boil some rice iu plain chicken or veal broth; 
4 when about half done, sauto a minced onion in butter, add 
to the rice with the required amount of diluted curry pow- 
der. Mix thoroughly, cover the saucepan and finish cooking 
In a slow oven. Serve with entrees, etc. 

RICE, CREOLE. 
Mince one sound white onion and two green peppers, 
(the hot kind). Put into a saute pan with a lump of butt r 
and some shredded raw ham, fry slowly for ten minutes, 
then add a half pound of washed rice and a pint of beef 
bouillon; simmer for twenty minutes. Then put in four 



96 THE VEST POCKET 

ripe tomatoes (peeled and sliced), season with salt. Cover 
the pan and finish cooking in a slow oven. Serve as an 
entree. 

RICE CASSEROLE. 

Wash and boil some rice in beef bouillon (the quantity of 
bouillon can be governed by the amount of rice by assum- 
ing that the rice will absorb twice its weight of liquid sub- 
stances). When it is thoroughly done and the moisture 
has evaporated, season with salt and Cayenne pepper. Re- 
move from the fire and pound to a paste in a mortar. 
Slightly grease a casserole the proper size. Line it with tho 
rice paste, smooth down the top with a palette knife. 
Sprinkle with butter and place in a hot oven to remain for 
thirty minutes, or until it becomes crusty and a light 
brown. 

Remove from the fire and let stand for a few minutes, 
then fill the cavity with saute sweetbreads, chicken livers 
or any small meat entree desired. Unmold upside down on 
a platter, paint the surface with meat glaze. Set in a hot 
oven for a few minutes. Serve. 

RICE AU GRATIN. 
Wash and boil the rice in a stiong chicken broth. Add 
some reduced Bechamel sauce and a handful of grated 
Parmesan cheese. Season with salt and Cayenne pepper. 
Put into gratin dishes, sprinkle top with fresh bread crumbs 
and bits of butter. Brown in a hot oven. Serve in same 
dish. 

RICE, MILANAISE. 
Mince and saute an oniun in butter. Moisten with a quart 
of clear beef broth. Add a ham bone and a little Spanish 
saffron tied in a clean cluth. Put in a pound of rice. Sim- 
mer for twenty-five minutes. Then remove the ham bone 
and saffron bag. Season with salt and paprica. Add a 
double handful of grated Parmesan cheese, cook for a few 
minutes longer, or until the cheese becomes stringy. Form 
into neat pyramids. Garnish with slices of fried ripe to- 
matoes. Pour over some brown butter. Serve. 

RICE, NEAPOLITAN. 
Mince an onion, saute in olive oil to a golden color, add 
some washed rice. Moisten with consomme and reduced 
tomato sauce. Cook slowly until the rice is done. Then, 
add some saute mushrooms cut in shreds and the same 
amount of blanched oysters. Slowly incorporate a handful 
of grated Parmesan cheese; salt and Cayenne pepper to 
taste. Form into pyramids. Garnish base with boiled and* 
split crawfish tails. Serve as an entree- 

RICE, CONDE. 

Wash and boil the rice in milk, add a little salt and sugar 
to sweeten It. Flavor with orange or lemon extract. 
When the rice has become quite dry incorporate a few egg 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 97 

yolks to bind it. Set aside to remain until It becomes cold. 
Then form it into pyramids. Garnish with stewed prunes 
and glazed fruits. Serve cold. 

RICE BORDER. 

Wash and boil the rice in clean white stock; when the 
rice is done the stock should be evaporated. Season with 
salt and a little grated cheese. Press into a greased border 
mold. Smooth off the top. cover with an oiled paper and 
bake in a slow oven for thirty minutes. Remove from the 
oven, allow it to cool slightly, then unmold and fill the 
center with small meat entrees. Serve. 
RICE CROUSTADE. 

Prepare the rice as directed for Casseroles. Put the rice- 
paste into plain individual pudding molds. With the thumb 
press a cavity in the center, leaving the sides a half inch 
thick. Unmold on an oiled baking sheet. Brush over with 
melted butter and bake for thirty minutes in a slow oven. 
Fill the center with small meat entrees. Serve. 
RICE GRUEL. 

Wash and boil two ounces of rice in a pint of milk for one 
hour. Slightly salt and strain through a cheese cloth. 
Flavor with a little nutmeg- Serve plain or sweetened. 
RICE PATTIES. 

Prepare a mixture the same as directed for Casseroles 
Spread it on a shallow pan or pastry board about one and 
one-half inch thick. When it has become cool, stamp it 
out with a plain round patty cutter; egg and bread in fresh 
crumbs. Mark the tops with a cutter about half an inch 
smaller than the one with which they were stamped. Fry 
to a golden color in clear hot fat. Drain on a towel, remoye 
the cover and dig out the cavity. Use instead of puff paste 
patties. 

RICE PREPARED FOR SOUPS, ETC 

Wash and boil the rice twenty minutes in hot water. Re- 
move from the fire, immerge in cold water, drain and use 



RICE TIMBALES. 
Prepare the rice as directed for Casseroles. Butter the 
required number of timbale molds. Set them into the ice- 
box to remain until the butter has become cold. Then 
decorate them with truffles, carrots, and red tongue. Care- 
fully line them with the rice paste, by pressing it in tightly 
with the thumb. Fill with sweetbreads, forcemeat or any- 
thing desired. 

Spread a coating of the rice over the top. Bake in a slow 
oven for ten minutes. Unmold by passing a thin knife 
around the sides. Garnish with a slice of lemon and pars- 
ley. Serve. 

ROCAMBOLE. 
(See Onion). 



98 THE VEST POCKET 

ROMAINE OR COS LETTUCE. 

(Fr. Romaine). (Ger. Binde Salat). 

Romaine is one of the numeious varieties of the 
lettuce tribe, Lactuca. The leaves are long tap- 
ering and dark green. Each plant or head is 
usually tied at the top a week or ten days before 
being cut for the market in order to make it more 
crisp. For a course dinner salad there is noth- 
ing better. It is prepared for salad and cooked 
the same as lettuce. (See Lettuce). 

ROSEMARY. 

(Fr. Rosmarin). (Ger. Rosmarin). 

Rosemary is a hardy shrub, Rosmarinus offici- 
nalis The narrow grayish leaves have a fragrant 
odor, and a warm bitter and pungent taste. They 
are often used in cookery for flavoring soups, 
sauces and salads. But they are principally used 
in making perfumes and cordials. 

The plant is a native of Italy, Spain and France. 

RUTABAGA, OR SWEDISH TURNIP. 

(Fr. Chou-Navtt Rutabaga). (Ger. Gelbe Boden-Rube) . 

The rutabaga is a species of the common turnip 
Brassica comflestris. It possesses more nutri- 
tive properties than the common turnip, but is 
less delicate. It is principally cultivated for 
feeding stock; though when boiled and mashed 
with one-third potatoes it makes a very fine table 
vegetable. 

RYE. 

(Fr.Seigle). (Ger. Roggen). 

Rye is a grain produced by a common cereal 
grass, Secale cereale. This plant is a native of 
the Black Sea regions and has been cultivated 
since ancient times. Rye is most extensively 
grown in Central and Northern Europe, where 
it constitutes the principal breadstuff of a larger 
part of the population. It is the hardiest of all 
the cereals, being grown in higher latitude than 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 99 

any other food producing plant. It is also largely 
employed for malting purposes, being the source 
of much whisky and gin. 

SAFFRON. 

( Fr. Safran ) . ( Ger . Saffran) . 

True saffron is the stigmas of the flower of an 
autumnal crocus, dried and pressed into a cake. 
The plant is a bulbous herb, Crocus sativus, but 
the saffron of commerce is produced from hay- 
saffron, a subordinate species, the stigmas of 
which are in loose form (uncaked). Saffron has 
a warm, pungent bitter taste, aromatic odor and 
is a deep orange color. The color is soluble in 
water and alcohol, and has long been used for 
coloring liquors, confections and pastries. 
SAGE. 

(Fr. Sauge). (Ger. Salbei). 

The common garden sage is a perennial aromatic 
herb, Salvia officinalis. The leaves are rough 
and of a grayish color. Sage was much esteemed 
in ancient times for its medicinal properties, but 
now its use is principally confined to seasoning, 
dressing, sausage and cheese. The leaves for 
this purpose are usually dried, then pressed or 
ground. 

SALSIFY. 

(Fr. Salsifls). (Ger. Haferwurzel). 

Salsify is a hardy biennial plant of the genus 
Tragofogoyi forrifolius. It is principally culti- 
vated for the long spindle-shape root, which re- 
sembles the oyster in flavor. It is commonly 
called oyster plant or vegetable oyster. Black Sal- 
sify is a relative plant, excepting that it grows a 
little larger and the skin is coarse and grayish 
black in color. But the flesh is white, tender and 
sugary. Salsify is procurable from September to 
May. 

BOILED SALSIFY. DRAWN BUTTER. 
Scrape the roots from the crown down, trim and immedi- 
ately immerge in acidulated water, which will prevent 

LofC. 



IOO THE VEST POCKET 

them from turning black. Cut in pieces about three inches 
long, then split each piece. Boil in salted water, (acid the 
juice of a lemon) until tender. Drain on a colander. Put 
a lump of butter into a saute pan; when melted put in the 
salsify, season and simmer for a few minutes. Serve in a 
deep vegetable dish, with some of the butter poured over. 
FRIED SALSIFY IN BATTER. 

Boil as directed in the foregoing. Drain, season, roll in 
flour, dip in French fritter batter and fry in hot fat. Serve 
on a fancj folded napkin, garnished with parsley. 
FRIED SALSIFY IN CRUMBS. 

Plain boil the salsify, drain, egg and bread. Fry in hot 
fat. Serve on a curly lettuce leaf. 

SALSIFY A LA CREMB. 

Clean the salsify in usual way, cut in slices about one- 
half inch thick. Parboil in salted water. Then simmer in 
rich sweet cream until tender. Season with butter, salt and 
pepper. Serve in a deep vegetable dish. 

CREAM OF SALSIFY, BECHAMEL. 

Clean and cut the salsify in slices abeut as thick as a 
quarter. Simmer until tender in rich chicken broth. Then 
add the same amount of thick bechamel sauce. Thorougly 
mix and let it come slowly to a boil. Rub through a fine 
sieve, put into a stone jar and finish with a liaison of egg 
yolks and sweet cream. Season with salt, butter and white 
pepper. Serve with toasted oyster crackers separate. 
SALSIFY SALAD. 

Clean and trim the roots at the top and bottom. Boil them 
whole in acidulated water. Set aside to cool in same liquor. 
Then drain and press dry in a clean towel. Cut in thin 
slices, season with salt and sweet paprica. Dress with olive 
oil and lemon juice. Serve on lettuce leaves garnished with 
chopped parsley and boiled beets cut in fancy shapes. 

SAVORY. 

(Fr. Sarrietie). (Oer. Saturei). 
Savory is an aromatic plant of the genus Satu- 
rcia. It is a native of Southern Europe. There 
are two varieties, the summer and winter savory. 
Both are a low aromatic herb grown for seasoning 
soups, farces and dressings. 

SAVOY CABBAGE. 

(See Cabbage). 

SHALLOT. 

(Fr. Echalot). (Ger. Schalotte). 

The shallot is a kind of onion, Allium Ascalo- 
nicum, and a native of Syria. The bulbs form 



VEGETABLE BOOK. IOI 

in the axils oE the upright stems like garlic. 
& Shallots are the mildest form of an onion known 
and are highly prized the world over for season- 
ing delicate soups, sauces and entrees. 
SORREL. 

(Fr. Oseille). (Ger. Sauerampfer). 
Sorrel is a perennial plant of the genus Rumex, 

■V of which there are quite a number of species. It 
is a native of Southern Europe, and is cultivated 
in France and other parts of the Old World. The 

f entire family is impregnated with oxalic acid, 
though the French sorrel is more succulent and 
less acidulent than any other. It is much used 

y in Europe for soups, purees and salads, and is 
cooked like spinach. 

PUREE OF SORREL. 

\ Trim off the roots of the required amount of French sor- 
rel, wash in several waters to remove the sand. Blanch and 
finish cooking in slightly salted water. When done, drain 
and chop very fine. Put the mass into a saucepan, add a 

.< ladleful of rich bechamel sauce. Season with salt, white 
pepper and a good size lump of butter. Simmer until 
thoroughly heated. Serve on a hot platter, garnished with 
quarters of hard boiled eggs. 

SORREL SALAD. 
Pick the young leaves, thoroughly wash, drain and press 
dry in a towel. Put into a salad bowl, season with salt 
and white pepper. Shred and saute a piece of bacon to a 
l golden color, pour it over the sorrel, mix and serve in same 
bowl. Olive oil can be used instead of the bacon, but vinegar 
must be omitted. 

CREAM OF SORREL (Soup). 
Wash the sorrel in salted water, drain and braise it w!th 
a lump of butter. Moisten with white broth and simmer 
for thirty minutes. Then add an equal quantity of thick 
t Bechamel sauce. When it has become hot rub through a 
fine sieve, season with salt, white pepper, then finish with a 
liaison of egg yolks and sweet cream. Serve with slices of 
toast sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. 

STEWED SORREL. 

Wash, drain and chop the sorrel leaves very fine. Mince 

a few fresh mushrooms, also a slice of raw ham. Braise 

r with a lump of butter for a few minutes. Then put in the 

sorrel, moisten with a ladleful of white broth, cover the 

pan and simmer for thirty minutes. Season with salt and 



102 THE VEST POCKET 

white pepper. Rub the mass through a fine sieve, heat in a 
lump of butter. Serve on a hot platter. 

SORREL, PLAIN BOILED. 
Pick the sorrel leaves from the stems, wash thoroughly 
and boil in salted water for thirty minutes; drain on a col- 
ender. Put a lump of butter Into a saute pan throw in the 
sorrel, season with salt and white pepper. Toss it for a few 
minutes over a hot Are. Serve with boiled salt meats. 

SOY-BEAN. 

(Fr. Haricot Soya). (Ger. Soja Bohne.) 

The soy-bean is an annual plant Sofa hispida. 
The stem grows erect and is thickly covered with 
silky hairs, bearing two or three pods from the | 
axil of the leaves. There are several varieties, 
the seeds of which differ somewhat in color and 
shape but not in composition. 

The soy-bean exceeds by far all other pulses in 
nutrient value. The plant is a native of India, 
China and Japan, where it produces an important, 
article of food, the seeds being one of the princi- 
pal ingredients employed in making the famous 
soy (sauce). i 

Soy sauce was originated nearly a thousand 
years ago in China, where it is stil made by 
almost every family. The Japanese who were 
the first to manufacture it on strictly scientific 
principles, have made of it an enormous industry 
by improving the flavor of the sauce. 
JAPANESE SOY. (Sauce). 

The ingredients of soy are wheat, sea-moss and soy-bean. 
The wheat is soaked in water for forty hours, then kiln- 
dried. The beans are cooked to a pulp and mixed with the-, 
wheat, and the sea-moss is chopped fine and added. It is 
then put into a keg and allowed to ferment for several 
weeks, at the end of which time it is strained through a cloth 
sack and reduced to half by slow boiling. Then bottled and*- 
store away for three or four years before it is ready for use. 

SPEARMINT. (See Mint). 

SPICES. 

(Look under respective names). 

SPINACH. 

(Fr. Epinard). (Ger. Spinat). 

Spinach is a common annual garden plant, 



VEGETABLE BOOK. I03 

Spinacia oleracea of the Goosefoot family. It is 
said to be a native of Western Asia, but is exten- 
sively cultivated in all countries having a tem- 
perate climate. The plant yields thick succulent 
leaves of a dark green color. When boiled and 
seasoned they form a pleasant and wholesome 
vegetable, which is suitable to serve with all kinds 
of meats. Spinach is plentiful at all seasons. 

BOILED SPINACH— PLAIN. 

Pick off the coarse steins and wash the spinach In cold 
water several times. (Great care should be taken in wash" 
ing, for the sand and grit sticks very tightly to the leaves)" 
Fill a sauce pan half full of water; when it boils slightly salt 
and put in the spinach. (Keep It immerged in the water 
with a wooden paddle.) Boil for thirty minutes, drain and 
rinse in cold water. Drain and squeeze out the water. If 
the leaves are large chop them a little. Put Into a stone 
jar, then set into the bain-marie. Season with butter, salt 
and white pepper. Serve. 

SPINACH GREEN-No. 1. 

This is the common kitchen method: 

Select freshly picked spinach, pick off the stems and wash 
In several waters, Drain and press dry, chop very tine and 
pound to a pulp in a mortar, moisten by degrees with some 
luk?-warm water. When you have added about all the 
6pinach will absorb, take out and squeeze the juice through 
a kitchen towel. Throw away the pulp and set the juice on 
cool part of the range to remain until it coagulates. Then 
strain through a clean cloth and the coloring matter will 
remain on the cloth. This will servo to color soups, sauces 
and stews. 

sriNACH GREEN-No. 2. 

The green coloring principle of spinach and other leaves 
and grasses is called chloroplyll. Tho following is the best 
method of obtaining it for general purposes. Thoroughly 
wash and press the spinach leaves dry. Then pound them 
in a mortar and squeeze out the juice, heat it gradually to 
130 degrees Fahr. and remove the green flakes of chloroplylb 
which separate by filtration through calico. When the 
liquor has all passed through the filter set the chloroplyll 
aside for a time, beat the strained liquor 2C0 degrees F. to 
coagulate the albumen, remove the latter by filtration and 
throw it away. Evaporate the filtrate by a water-bath to 
the consistency of syrup. Then add to the chloroplyll and 
stir the whole together assiduously, continue the evapora- 
tion at a temperature not exceeding 140 degrees F. until 
the extract is of the suitable consistency. A higher tem- 
perature than that Indicated would cause the alteration of 



IC4 THE VEST POCKET 

the chloroplyll to a dark brown substance. This is soluble 
In either alcohol or water. 

SPINACH RAVIOLES. 

Take equal parts of blanched chicken livers, boiled veil 
and ox-marrow, chop and pound to a smooth paste in a 
mortar. Add a like amount of blanched spinach leaves. 
Season with chopped parsley, salt and white pepper. Pound 
again until the mass is thoroughly mixed, then rub through 
a coarse sieve, adding a good-sized handful of grated Par- 
mesan cheese. Roll out some rich pie crust, cut in pieces 
about three inches square, lay a spoonful of the above mix- 
ture on the center of each square. Brush the edges with 
the beaten yolk of an egg, fold in the four corners, and 
squeeze them together. Simmer for ten minutes in boiling 
stock, take out, drain and bake for thirty minutes in a slow 
oven. Servo on a hot platter garnished with parsley. For 
soups the crust is made of noodle paste and boiled only. 
PUREE OF SPINACH. (Plain). 

Clean and boll the spinach in the usual way. Drain and 
chop fine. Put a lump of butter into a saute pan, when 
melted throw in the spinach and heat thoroughly. Season 
with salt and white pepper. Serve on a hot platter gar- 
nished with quarters of hard boiled eggs. 

SPINACH A LA CREME. 

Clean and boil the required amount of spinach. When 
done, drain and press dry. Lay on a board and chop very 
fine. Put a lump of butter into a saucepan, set on the lire 
until it becomes a light brown, add the spinach. When 
heated through, slowly incorporate some rich cream. Sea- 
eon with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, Serve on a hot 
platter, garnished with poached eggs. 

BOILED SPINACH WITH HAM. JOWL AND OTHER 
PICKLED MEATS. 

Put the meat into a saucepan the proper size, cover 
with hot water and simmer slowly until done. Tien take 
it out and in the same liquor boll the spinach for thirty 
minutes. Drain on a colander, put into a stone jar and 
season with a lump of butter. 

SPINACH WITH GRAVY. 
Clean and thoroughly wash the spinach, blanch in salted 
water, drain and squeeze dry. Put a ladlef ul of veal gravy and 
a lump of butter into a saute pan. chafe over the fire until 
hot, then put in the spinach and simmer for twenty minutes; 
add more moisture if necessary. Season with salt and 
pepper. Dish on a hot platter, form into omelet shape 
Paint the top with melted glaze- Garnish with fancy 
croutons. Serve. 

SPINACH HOME STYLE. 
Select freshly picked young spinach. Wash thoroughly in 
several waters. Drain and boil in salted water for twenty 



VEGETABLE BOOK. I05 

minutes. Then drain again and press dry. Chop very fine. 
. Put a lump of butter into a saucepan; when melted put 
in the spinach, and heat thoroughly. Season with salt and 
white pepper. Serve in deep vegetable dish. 

SPINACH, MAIT11E D'HOTEL. 
' The same as the foregoing, except, add the juice of a lemon 
and a piece of meat glaze. Serve on a platter garnished 
with fancy croutons. 

SPINACH OMELET. 
Prepare an omelet in the usual way. Fill with spinach 
cooked Home Style- Roll up and serve. 

SPINACH SALAD. 

,' Gather the young spinach leaves just as they are coming 
out of the ground. Wash thoroughly and press dry; put 
into a salad bowl with some chopped chives and sorreL 
Season with salt and paprica. Dre6S with olive oil and 

1 vinegar. Serve in same bowl. 

SPINACH SOUP, MARROW DUMPLINGS. 
Braise in butter two sliced onions, one carrot, one small 
white turnip and a sprig of celery. Wash a peck of spinach, 
drain and chop fine- Add to the vegetables and cover with 
strong mutton broth. Simmer for two hours. Lightly 
thicken with flour and water. Rub through a fine sieve. 
Return to fire in a clean saucepan, season with a lump of 

f butter, salt, pepper and a pint of white wine. Prepare some 
marrow dumplings, and serve a few with each portion. 

SPINACH^EN PYRAMIDS. 
^ Pick and wash the spinach, boil for thirty minutes in 
salted water. Drain, press dry and pound in mortar to a 
pulp. Add some bacon shredded and fried to a golden color, 
and yolks of hnrd boiled eggs. Pound until the mass be- 
comes a perfect blend. Return to the Are in a saute pan. 
* Season with salt, white pepper, and a little grnted nutmeg; 
stir in a lump of butter. Press Into a square pyramid form 
and unmold on square slices of toast. Sprinkle with glaze 
( and servo. 

SPINACH WITH POACHED EGGS. 
Prepare the iplnach as for Puree of Spinach (Plain). 
Dish a spoonful on a sllco of buttered toast, smooth down, 
k and serve with a poached egg on each slice. 

SQUASH. 

(Fr, Sourge). (Go-. Sptisekurbease). 

The squash is the fruit of a creeping annual 
plant of the gourd family, Cucitrbita. The numer- 
ous species of the cultivated squash for common 
use are divided in two classes, the winter and 
summer. The best known varieties are the Hub- 



106 THE VEST POCKET 

bard, Hard Shell Turban, Boston Marrow, Crook- 
neck and Fordhook. 

Summer squash can be eaten before they are 
fully matured, while the winter varieties are not 
edible until they are ripe. The latter can also 
be preserved through the season. In Europe the 
squash is called vegetable marrow and is not re- 
garded with much favor. 

BOILED SUMMER SQUASH. 
Pare, cut In slices and remove the seeds. Boil in salted 
water for fifteen or twenty minutes. Spread a piece of 
cheese cloth over a colander. Pour on the squash, draia 
and squeeze out the water. Set in bain-marie. Season with 
a lump of butter, pepper and salt. Serve. 

BOILED WINTER SQUASH. 
With a heavy knife remove the thick, hard skin of a Hub* 
bard squash. Cut in pieces, remove the seeds, immerge in 
boilinjj salted water, cook until soft. Drain on a colander- 
Melt a lump of butter in a saute pan, put in the squash* * 
season with salt and white pepper, chafe gently until heated 
through. Dish on a platter. Shove it into a hot oven for a 
few minutes; take out and serve while hot. 

MASHED WINTER SQUASEI. 

Proceed the same as directed above, except mash through 
the colander and serve in a deep vegetable dish. 
FRIED HUBBARD SQUASH- 

Remove the hard skin with a heavy knife. Cut the squash 
in half, take out the seeds. Then cut in strips an inch and 
a half wide and three inches long. Steam until two-thirds 
done; take out and set aside to cool. Season, roll in flour 
and fry slowly in butter. Serve on a hot platter garnished • 
with fancy croutons. The squash can also be dipped in 
batter and fried like fritters. 

BAKED WINTER SQUASH. 

Select a fancy Hubbard squash, wash and scrub the out- 
side very clean, cut in pieces about three inches square, 
leaving the skin on. Arrange the pieces on a baking pan, sea- 
son with salt andwhite pepper. Put a piece of butter on each > 
slice and bake in a slow oven until soft. Serve hot on a 
fancy folded napkin. 

STUFFED SQUASH. 
The sweet potato squash is most suitable for this purpose. 
Select the small ones, wash the skin thoroughly. Cut in 
half, dig out the seeds with a vegetable scoop. Bake in a 
slow oven until done. Dig out the meat, leaving the shell 
whole. Mash the meat to a pulp, season with salt, white 
pepper and a lump of butter, slowly incorporate some hot 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 107 

cream. Thoroughly mix and stuff back into the shells. 

Return to oven for ten minutes longer. Serve on a folded 

napkin. 

STRAWBERRY TOMATO or ALKEKENGI. 

(Fr. Alkekenge). (Ger. Judenkirsche). 

The Alkekengi is a common Southern herba- 
ceous plant of the nightshade family, Physalis 
alkekengi. The fruit is well formed, usually red 
or yellow when ripe. It has an acid taste between 
a strawberry and a tomato. The plant is very 
ornamental in-early winter and the fruit is a pleas- 
ant vegetable. 

BAKED STRAWBERRY TOMATO. 

Select the fruit when perfectly ripe. Scald and remove 

the skin. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with bread 

crumbs and bits of butter. Bake in a quick oven for ten or 

fifteen minutes. Serve on a hot platter. 

STRAWBERRY TOMATO, FRIED. 
Scald and remove the skiDS. Season, roll in flour, egg and 
bread. Fry In hot fat. Serve as a vegetable, or use for 
garnishing. 

SWEET POTATOES. 

(Fr.Patates). {Ger . Bataten) . 

The sweet potato is an annual creeping plant, 
closely related to the morning-glory tribe, Ifomoea 
Batatas. It yields a spindle shape edible root, 
rich in starch and contains more sugar than the 
common potato, though it is much the same 
nature. The plant is supposed to be a native of 
Brazil, but it is extensively cultivated in a// warm 
countries. There are many varieties grown, which 
differ in color only, such as the red, white and 
yellow. A variety called Yams is highly esteemed 
in the South, and the bill of fare is never com- 
plete without "candied yams." 

In Mexico and Spain, I am told, the sweet potato 
is regarded as a sweetmeat. But in the United 
States they are cooked much the same as the com- 
mon potato, leaving out the flavoring herbs and 
condiments. Salt should be used with discretion. 

CANDIED YAMS. (Sweet Potatoes). 

Select small ones of uniform size. Wash and boil until 

soft in unsalted water. When they are cool enough to 



108 THE VEST POCKET 

handle, scrape off the skin and arrange them on a baking 
pan about an inch apart. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, 
and brown in a slow oven. Serve on a fancy folded napkin, 
MASHED SWEET POTATOES. 
Proceed the same as mashed potatoes. Season with salt 
and butter, using salt very sparingly. Incorporate the 
cream or milk and serve the same as mashed potatoes. 
SWISS CHARD. 
(See Beets). 

TARRAGON. 

(Fr. Estragon). (Ger. Dragun). 

Tarragon is a perennial complex aromatic plant 
of the genus Artemisia Dracunculus. It was 
originally a native of Russia and Siberia, but is 
extensively cultivated in France, where the leaves 
are used for flavoring salads, sauces and making 
vinegar. The famous sauce Bearnaise is incom- 
plete without tarragon. 

TARRAGON BUTTER. 

Pick off the leaves from several sprigs of tarragon, wash' 
and press dry, chop fine and pound to a pulp in a mortar 
Wash and add the butter. Mix thoroughly and squeeze in 
the juice of a lemon. Adda little sweet paprica and rub 
through a fine sieve- Put in ice-box to cool. Use for Ash 1 
and entrees. 

TARRAGON VINEGAR. 

Gather the young sprigs, wash in cold water. Put them 
Into a wide mouthed jug, cover with white wine vinegar, and 
macerate for several weeks in a warm place. Pour off the 
vinegar, press juice from the sprigs, filter and bottle for use- 

THYME. 

(Fr Thym). (Ger. Thymian). 

Thyme is a plant of the genus Thymus, of 
which I am told, there are more than a hundred 
species; but only two varieties known to cookery, 
the common garden, and the lemon scented. 
Thyme is a shrub-like plant, the aromatic leaves^ 
of which are used when green and dry for season- 
ing soups and farces. The flavor, however, is 
very pungent and should be used with discretion. - ' 
TOMATOES. 

(Fr. Tomates). (Ger. Liebesapfle). 

The Tomato is a South American hardy an- 
nual plant of the nightshade family, Lycopersi- 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 109 

cum esculentum. It is extensively cultivated in 
the United States and elsewhere for the fruit, 
which is usually red or yellow when ripe. The 
many varieties grown differ but little except in 
size, shape and color. Tomatoes are marketable 
the year round. 

TOMATO CATCHUP. * 

(See Catchup). 

STEWED TOMATOES. 

Select perfectly ripe tomatoes, scald arid remove the skins 
Cut in quarters and stew in a nickle, porcelain or agate 
saucepan until the juice is somewhat evaporated. Season 
with salt, Cayenne pepper and butter. If preferred they can 
be thickened with corn starch. The addition of a little 
sugar will improve the flavor, 

STEWED CANNED TOMATOES. 
Open can, drain on a colander. Save the juice for other 
purposes, and cook as directed in the foregoing. 

GREEN CORN AND TOMATOES. 
(See under Corn). 

STEWED TOMATOES, SPANISH STYLE. 
Mince a medium size onion, fry it slowly for ten minutes 
in butter. Scald and peel a dozen tomatoes, cut in quarters 
and add to the onion. Simmer slowly for an hour. Season 
with salt, butter and red pepper. Serve in deep vegetable 
dish surrounded with croutons. 

BAKED TOMATOES-No. 1. 
Scald, peel and remove the core of several tomatoes (or 
number required) of uniform size. Arrange on a baking 
pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, All center with butter 
Bake in a slow oven for thirty minutes. Take out and serve 
on fancy cut slices of toast. 

BAKED TOMATOES-No. 2. 

Scald and peel the tomatoes, cut in slices about half an 
inch thick. Season and sprinkle each slice with a little 
cracker meal. Place them together again, arrange closely 
on a greased baking pan. Sprinkle top with more cracker 
meal, and bits of butter. Bake for thirty minutes in a slow 
oven. Serve on a folded napkin garnished with sprigs of 
fried parsley. 

BAKED TOMATOES— No. 3. 

Scald and peel tne tomatoes, cut in half crosswise. Re- 
move the pulp, stew with some finely minced onion and 
shreds of bacon . When done, season and add enough small 
bread sippets to absorb the juice. Stuff the shells, sprinkle 
with grated American cheese, bake for ten minutes in a 
quick oven. Serve on fancy cut slices of buttered toast. 



110 THE VEST POCKET 

TOMATOES AD GRATIN. 
Scald and peel the required number of ripe tomatoes. Cut 
them in half, simmer slowly for thirty minutes. Season 
with salt and pepper. Pour in a colander to drain off the 
juice. Return juice to fire in a clean saucepan. Reduce 
until it becomes the consistency of thick syrup, then add a 
handful of grated Parmesan cheese, afew bread crumbs and 
the tomatoes left in colander; chafe until thoroughly mixed ; 
then fill a gratin dish. Sprinkle top with fresh bread 
crumbs and bits of butter. Bake in a hot oven until brown. 
Serve in same dish. 

STEAMED TOMATOES. 
Scald and peel the tomatoes, cut out the core by running 
the point of a knife around it, fill the cavity with butter. 
Season the tomatoes with salt and red pepper. Arrange in 
a perforated bottom steamer. Steam for ten minutes. 
Serve plain, garnished with sippets. 

BROILED TOMATOES. 
Scald and skir several sound tomatoes, cut them in slices 
half an inch thick. Lay them on a large platter, season 
with salt and white pepper, pour on some olive oil or drawn 
butter. Arrange the slices on a double hand-iron. Broil 
for five minutes over a quick fire. Serve on a folded nap- 
kin plain or with mayonnaise sauce. 

FRIED TOMATOES. 
Prepare the tomatoes as directed for broiling, except roll 
the 6lices in flour; egg and bread in fresh crumbs. Fry in 
butter. Serve with tartar sauce. 

STUFFED TOMATOES. 

Wipe dry several ripe tomatoes of uniform size. Cut off 
the top to form a hinged cover. Scoop out center, leaving 
enough of the meat to form a perfect shell. Mince and saute 
an onion to a golden color, add the pulp and simmer slowly 
for twenty minutes. Season with butter, salt and Cayenne 
pepper. Add enough bread crumbs to absorb the juice. 
Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Thoroughly mix and stuff 
the shells. Arrange on an oiled baking pan. Bake for 
twenty minutes in a slow oven. Serve on a fancy folded 
napkin. 

STUFFED TOMATOES, PROVENCAL. 

Prepare the tomatoes as directed in the foregoing. Sim- 
mer the pulp until it becomes quite thick. Then add a 
ladleful of Espagnole and a piece of meat glaze. Chafe un- 
til the mixture becomes hot, strain through a fine sieve to 
remove the seeds. Mince a small onion, a clove of garlic 
and three fresh mushrooms, saute them in butter, add the 
sauce with enough bread crumbs to thicken it. Stuff the 
shells, place on the cover and bake slowly for twenty 
minutes. Serve while hot. 



VEGETABLE BOOK. Ill 

STUFFED TOMATOES, MEXICAN. 
Wipe a dozen fancy ripe tomatoes, cut them in half cross- 
wise. Scoop out the pulp. Mince a green pepper, three 
shallots, a piece of raw ham and two calves brains. Saute 
in butter, add the tomato pulp and simmer the mixture for 
forty minutes. Season with Cayenne pepper and salt; 
thicken with rolled crackers. Slide a large plain tube into 
an ornamenting sack, put in the mixture, and stuff the sheila 
in pyramid form, stud with blanched almonds, sprinkle with 
powdered sugar and bake in a slow oven for twenty minutes. 
Serve on a folded napkin. 

STUFFED TOMATOES, CREOLE 
Prepare the tomatoes for stuffed. Mince an onion, greeu 
pepper, stalk of celery ard some raw ham ; saute in butter, 
add the pulp that has been scooped out, simmer for thirty 
minutes. Season with salt, Cayenne pepper. Stuff the 
shells, arrange on a baking pan, bake for fifteen minutes. 
Serve with reduced Espagnole sauce. 

STUFFED TOMATOES FOR GARNISHING. 

Select small round tomatoes. Prepare the stuffing as di- 
rected in any of the foregoing recipes. Bake in a quick oven. 
Use for garnishing meat and fish entrees. 
TOMATO SAUCE., 

Scald and peel the tomatoes; cut in quarters. Cut a carrot, 
onion, leek, sprig of celery and a few parsley roots In small 
pieces. Put them into a saucepan with a lump of butter and 
a ham bone, braise slowly until the vegetables become a 
light brown. Add a few pepper corns, bay leaves and whole 
cloves. Put In the tomatoes, stir occasionally until they 
boll. Then shove back to simmer for two hours. Thicken 
with a little corn starch diluted in cold stock. Remove ham 
bone and strain through a fine sieve. Season with salt and 
Cayenne pepper. Pour into a stone jarand use when needed. 
PUREE OF TOMATO. 

Prepare the body exactly the same as for sauce. Add one- 
fourth its quantity of consomme, beef broth or a piece of 
meat glaze. Season to taste. Serve with croutons, royal 
custard or rice as may be preferred. The addition of a little 
sugar will Improve the flavor. 

CREAM OF TOMATO, HOME STYLE. 

Prepare a puree of tomato, add a little bi-carbonate of 
soda, to neutralize the acid, pour in one-fouvth its quantity 
of boiling sweet cream. Season with salt, pepper and a 
little sugar. Serve with toasted crackers separate. 
ESSENCE OF TOMATOES. 

Scald and peel several ripe tomatoes, stew slowly for 
thirty minutes. Then pour into a clean cheese cloth sack 
and press out the juice. Reduce it half, add a piece of beef 
glaze. Season with salt, sugar and red pepper. Serve in 
small cups with cheese straws separate- 



112 THE VEST POCKET 

TOMATOE3 FOR RELISH. 

Select fancy red ripe tomatoes. Put on ice for several 
hours before serving. Wipe dry and cut in thin slices. 
Serve on a relish dish, covered with crushed ice- 
Chopped onion, chopped peppers or chopped chives are 
sometimes served on a small dish with the tomatoes. 

Sauce — Dilute a little mayonnaise with whipped cream, 
or, some prefer French salad dressing. 

TOMATO FRAPPE FOR RELISH. 

Select medium size red ripe tomatoes, scald and peel them. 
Arrange in a deep pan, cover with shaved Ice and sprinkle 
top with a little salt. When the tomatoes have become 
thoroughly chilled, serve on a salad plate with mayonnaise 
dressing. 

STDFFED TOMATO SALAD. 

Select fancy red ripe tomatoes, wash and wipe them dry, 
insert acolumn tube about an inch in diameter into the stem 
end of the tomato. Scald and peel them, cover with shaved 
Ice and salt. When they become slighty frozen on the out- 
side dig out the center with a vegetable scoop. Fill tho 
cavity with plain celery salad, dish on a spoonful of may- 
onnaise, garnish with capers and beets cut In fancy shape. 
Serve on a curly lettuce leaf. 

TOMATO SALAD, BOSTON STFLE. 

Scald, peel and slice the tomatoes. Dish on a salad plate- 
Season with salt, sugar and a little lemon juice. Pour on 
some thick double cream. Serve. 

TOMATO AND CUCUMBER SALAD. 

(Look under Cucumbers). 

FRIED GREEN TOMATOES. 

Pick the tomatoes just before they turn ripe. Wash and 
wipe them dry. Cut in slices about a quarter of an inch 
thick. Lay on a pan, sprinkle with salt and a little Cayenne 
pepper. Roll in flour, fry in butter until they become soft. 
Serve on a folded napkin with hot mayonnaise sauce. 
TOMATO OMELET. 

Chop an onion, saute in butter with some minced raw 
tomatoes. Simmer for a few minutes, season. Prepare the 
omelet, roll in the tomatoes and serve hot. 
TRUFFLES. 

(F)\ Truffles.) (Ger. Trufflen.) 

1 Truffles are any one of several species of • 
subterranean edible fungus of the genus Tuber. 
The truffle was highly esteemed as an article of 
food by the ancient Romans, but they did not be- 
come generally popular until the last hundred 
years, and it is safe to say that hardly one-tenth .. 
of the diners at the present time know or appre- 
ciate the real value of them. 



" 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 113 

When truffles are fresh they are worthy indeed 
of the extravagant praise they receive, but the 
truffles of commerce (canned), which we are com- 
pelled to use in this country, are little better 
than none at all, except for artistic cookery, The 
real truffle sauce we are unable to produce. The 
French truffles are the most highly prized for 
their flavor and general appearance. They are 
round in shape with black warty skin, and the 
meat is usually black or dark green in color. 
These varieties are found in large quantities in 
the old province of Perigord; this is why the fam- 
ous dishes prepared with truffles are styled Peri- 
gueux. 

As the truffles show no signs of their presence 
above ground the natives conceived the idea of 
training pigs and dogs to locate them by scent, 
and by their aid two or three children could find 
a quart or more in one day. Bat of late years I 
am told many persons have become experts in 
locating the place where they are most apt to be 
found. The English truffles differ in color, hav- 
ing black warty skin with brownish veins and the 
meat is white or marble color. 

There are also several species found in Italy 
and Africa, but they seem to be foreign and 
hardly possess the flavor that characterizes the 
others, 

TRUFFLE SAUCE. 
Reduce some thin veal gravy to half, strain through a 
kitchen towel. Put a teaspoonful of white sugar into a 
saucepan ; when It becomes brown, pour In some white wine 
and reduce to half, then add threo or four canned truffles 
cut in slices; simmer for a few seconds, then pour in the 
veal gravy. Season with salt, butter and a little sweet 
paprica. 

TRUFFLE SAUCE. ANOTHER WAY. 
Mince one onion, one carrot and a sprig of celery, braise 
them in butter for fifteen minutes, then moisten with a 
quart of veal stock. Add a piece of chicken glaze, some 
parsley roots and a few pepper corns; simmer for two 
hours, strain through a clean towel. Return to Are in a 
clean saucepan, reduce to half, then add one half its 



114 THE VEST POCKET 

quantity of strong Allemande sauce and a plntof Sauterne; 
simmer slowly for a few minutes longer. 

Mince half a dozen canned black truffles; put a lump of 
butter the size of an egg into a saucepan; when it becomes 
brown put in the minced truffles and chafe for a few 
seconds. Then, strain on the sauce; season with white 
pepper and salt. 

TRUFFLES AND CHESTNUT STUFFING. 
Shred a piece of bacon, saute it with some minced shal- 
lots, sprig of thyme, bouquet of parsley, a few pepper corns 
and two or three bay leaves (tie the spices in a clean rag). 
Then add a quart of peeled and blanched Italian chestnuts, 
cover with milk or cream and cook to pulp. Remove the 
parsley, thyme and spices. Mash the chestnuts and rub 
them through a fine sieve, add a dozen minced canned truf- 
fles and beat In a lump of butter. Season with salt and 
white pepper. Use for stuffing poultry or game. 

STUFFED TRUFFLES FOR GARNISHING. 
Select some small round canned truffles, scoop out the cen- 
ter with a small Parisienne cutter. Prepare a rich farce of 
cooked partridge breasts; mince and add some of the trim- 
mings of the truffles. Stuff tho shells, simmer them4n but- 
ter moistened with some old Maderla wine. 

SMALL PATTIES OF TRUFFLES- 
Cut some canned truffles in small dice. Put a lump of 
butter Into a small saucepan. When it becomes nut brown 
add a glassful of champagne, and reduce it to half. Throw 
In the truffles, chafe over the fire for a few minutes, then 
strain on enough reduced Allemande sauce to cover the 
truffles. Add some pieces of chicken, season with salt and 
white pepper. Fill the required number of puff paste pat- 
ties, put on the cover and serve hot. 

TRUFFLE OMELET. 
Prepare the truffles as directed for patties. Make an 
omelet in the usual way. Roll in a spoonful of the sauce* 
Serve hot garnished with slices of truffles over the top. 

TRUFFLES, EPICUREAN. 
Slice several canned truffles, simmer them in butter and 
old Maderia wine, moisten with veal gravy, season with , 
salt and pepper. Serve with steaks, chops and entrees. 

TRUFFLES, PERIGUEUX, 
Select small round truffles, peel and cover them with a I 
farce made of fat goose 1 i vers. Roll out a thin sheet of puff 
paste. Cut in squares large enough to cover each truffle; 
brush the edges with beaten egg yolks. Enclose the truffles, ( 
press the edges together. Arrange on a pan, bake in a hot 
oven for twenty minutes, take out, cut in half, dish on a hot 
platter. Pour over some beurre noir. Serve while hot, 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 115 

TURNIPS. 
{Fr.Navet). (Ger. Rube). 

The turnip is the thick fleshy edible root of a 
common garden or field plant, Brassica JRapa. 
The plant is often found growing wild, but is 
said to be poisonous. The root of the true tur- 
nip is round and usually broader than thick. It 
was extensively cultivated by the ancient Romans 
and Greeks and is still grown in almost every 
country having a favorable climate. It not only 
affords us a wholesome vegetable but it is largely 
used for feeding sheep and cattle. 

BOILED TURNIPS. DRAWN BUTTER. 

Select the purple top variety; peel and plunge them into 
a pan of cold water, take out, cut in quarters, blanch in 
tly acidulated water. Wash and finish cooking in Baited 
water. (Add a little white sugar when they are about hnlf 
done) Drain and serve in a deep vegetable dish with 
drawn butter poured over. 

MASHED TURNIPS. 

Peel and cut the turnips in slices about a half inch thick, 
blanch and finish cooking in slightly salted water. Drain 
on a colander, press out the water and mash through a 
sieve. Season with butter, salt and white pepper. Add a 
little sugar if preferred. Serve as a vegetable or use for 
garnishing meat dishes. 

STEWED TURNIPS, POULETTE. 

Peel several large white turnips, scoop out little balls with 
a Parisienno cutter. Blanch them in acidulated water, 
wash and finish cooking iu strong chlck?n broth. When 
they are done prepare a white roux in another saucepan. 
Drain the turnips on a colander, saving the broth and slowly 
Incorporate it with the roux. Allow It to simmer fur a few 
minutes, then add a liaison of egg yolks and sweet cream. 
Remove from the fire, and season with salt and white pep- 
per. Put the turnips into a stone jar. pour over the sauce. 
Serve in a deep vegetable dish, sprinkled with chopped 
yolks of hard boiled eggs. 

STEWED TURXIPS, WHITE SAUCE. 

Prepare the turnips as directed for roulette. Blanch and 
boil them until done in salted water. Drain and return to 
the fire in a saute pan. Season and add a lump of butter, 
toss gently until they become hot. then add some Allemande 
sauce- Serve as a vegetab:e or use for garnishing. 
STEWED TURNIPS IN CREAM. 

Peel and cut the turnips in half; blanch and boil until 
lone In Baited water. Drain and cut in dice about a 



Il6 THE VEST POCKET 

quarter of an inch square. Simmer for fifteen minutes in 
sweet cream. Season with salt, sugar and white pepper. 
Add a lump of butter; when it has melted blend it with the 
cream by chafing the saucepan for a few seconds over the 
flre. Serve in a deep vegetable dish. 

TURNIPS AU GRATIN. 
Peel and cut the turnips in small dice, blanch and finish 
cooking in salted water. Drain when done. Put a lump of 
butter into a saute pan; when it becomes slightly brown 
add the turnips and sufficient AUemande sauce to cover 
them. Simmer for a few minutes, season with salt and a 
little Cayenne pepper, throw in a handful of grated Par- 
mesan cheese, chafe until the cheese becomes stringy. Then 
put into gratin dishes, sprinkle top with bread crumbs and 
bits of butter. Brown in a quick oven and servo in same 
dish. 

TURNIPS, FINANCIERS. 
Peel and cut the turnips in slices a half inch thick, then 
in diamond shape. Blanch and boil until done in salted 
water. Drain. Cut a piece of bacon into sbreds, put it into a 
saute pan with turnips and a few small fresh mushrooms. 
Braise them for ten minutes over a slow fire. Add a ladle- 
ful of Espagnole sauce and simmer for fifteen minutes; 
skim off the fat. Season with salt and pepper. Serve on 
fancy cut croutons. 

GLAZED TURNIPS. 
Peel a few large turnips, scoop out little balls with a 
Parisienne cutter. Blanch and boil them in salted water; 
when done drain. Put them into a saute pan with a small 
piece of butter, fry slowly until they become a golden 
color. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, toss over a hot fire 
for a few minutes- Use for garnishing meat dishes. 
TURNIPS GLAZED IN GRAVY. 
Prepare the turnips as directed in the foregoing. Simmer 
In a little reduced veal gravy. Shove into a hot oven to 
glaze. Serve as a vegetable or use for garnishing. 
PUREE OF TURNIPS. 
Peel several young white turnips, cut in 6lices, blanch and 
boil until done in white broth. Drain on a colander. Return 
to flre in a saute pan, add some dry bread crumbs and a 
ladleful of sweet cream. Season with salt and white pep- 
per. When the mixture becomes hot, rub through a fine 
sieve. Put the pulp into a stone jar, beat in a lump of but- 
ter. Incorporate a few raw egg yolks and serve as a garnish 
for meat dishes. 

TURNIP- TOP GREENS. 
Pick the turnip-tops when young and tender. Wash them 
thoroughly in several waters. Drain and boil for thirty 
minutes in salted water. Drain off the liquor, chop fine, 
season with butter, pepper and salt. Serve plain or with 
salt or smoked meats. 



VEGETABLE BOOK. 117 

TURNIP-CABBAGE. 
(Same as Kohlrabi). 

TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY. 
(Same as Celeriac). 

VEGETABLE MARROW, 
(Look under Squash). 

VEGETABLE KINGDOM. 
The vegetable kingdom is that elementary divi- 
sion of living things which embraces all plants, 
the classes of which have been divided by Lin- 
nean into two distinct groups, Phancrogamia 
which comprises the plants having distinct flowers 
and true seeds, and Cryptogamia, which include 
plants without flowers and are reproduced by 
spores of different kinds or by cell division. 
These groups are further subdivided into several 
classes according to the nature and production of 
the plants. 

WALNUTS. 

(Fr.Noix). (Ger. Wallnu8se). 

The walnut is the edible fruit of any one of the 
several varieties of trees of the same genus Juglans. 
It was originally a native of the Himalayas and the 
provinces of the Caucasus. It was also exten- 
sively cultivated in Palestine in the time of King 
Solomon. But since the sixteenth century it has 
been naturalized in all European countries. The 
English and French walnuts are highly prized for 
their size and excellent flavor. When the walnut 
is shelled it yields about thirty per cent of sweet 
oil, which is much used for food in Europe. The 
black walnut of the United States yields a thick 
shell dark-meated nut which is less palatable than 
the European varieties. The unripe fruit of the 
English walnut is gathered when the shell is soft 
and made into pickles and preserves and many 
other dainty sweetmeats. 

WALNUT CATCHUP. 
(Look under Catchup). 



IlS THE VEST POCKET 

WALNUT SALAD. 

(Look under Nut Salads). 

WALNUT SAUCE. 
Prepare a roux by rubbing together equal parts of flour 
and butter in a saucepan; when it becomes hot slowly in- 
corporate enough hot water to foim a smooth sauce. Season 
with lemon juice, pepper and salt, strain, beat in a lump of 
butter and add several sliced pickled walnuts. An excellent 
sauce for fish. 

WATERCRESS. 

(Look under Cress). 

WATERMELON. 

(Fr. Melon D'Eau.) (Ger- Wasser Melone.) 

The watermelon is the fruit of a trailing tropi- 
cal plant of the genus Citrullus vulgaris. The 
plant is a native of Asia, but is largely culti- 
vated in America, China, India and many other 
countries. The red pulpy flesh of the ripe fruit 
contains an abundance of sweet refreshing watery 
juice. Watermelon appears on our Northern 
markets as early as June fifteenth, but these con- 
signments are shipped from Cuba and are never 
in prime condition. The real fancy ones are grown 
in southern Illinois and Indiana. 
WHEAT. 
{Fr. Fromont). (Qer. Weitzen), 

The wheat plant is a cereal grass of the 
genus Friticum sativum. The varieties are 
classified as white, red and amber. These are 
grown both for spring and winter crops. It is a 
wonderful fact that a single grain of wheat com- 
prises all the fourteen elements necessary to sus- 
tain life, audit is the only plant that contains car- 
bonates, phosphates, and nitrates in the proper 
proportion to form a complete diet. Wheat 
furnishes the principal breadstaff of all civilized 
countries. 

[finis] 



INDEX 



119 



Page 
Alkekengi^trw'b'ry tmato 10 

Almond salad 6' 

Apples, cab'ge with, fried 20 

Aromatic herbs 1 

Artichokes 1 

barigoule 2 

boiled plain 1 

bottoms, Fr.str beans 2 

cream 2 

with eggs , 2 

with fine herbs 3 

for garnish 2 

Hollandaise 3 

Jerusalem 3 

omelet 3 

poulette 3 

puree 2 

soup 3 

stutfed 3 

vinaigrette 3 

Asparagus 5 

bechamel 6 

boiled, drawn butter fi 
cream of Comtesse .. 8 
farce for pompadour 6 

glace 9 

an gratin 

Hollandaise 6 

and lobster salad 8 

omelet 7 

patties, Comtesse 

puree 8 

In pyramid 7 

and salmon salad 7 

and shrimp salad 8 

Spanish style 7 

stewed... 6 

stuffing fi 

tips, Colbert 8 

" for consomme .. 9 
" fried, Miranda., 6 

" for garnish B 

'* maintenon ti 

" In Vienna rolin.. 7 
with young carrots.. 7 

vinaigrette 8 

Baked beets It; 

onions 72 

potatoes S2 

strawberry tomato.. 107 

ton) atoes 109 

winter squash 10(5 

Balm-mint 9 

Barley 9 

cream soup 10 

gruel 10 

pearl 9 

" for bkfst cereal 9 

Bay leaves 10 

Beans 10 

artichoke b't'rns with 

French string 2 

Boston baked 13 

broad 15 

lima 14 

'• iuaitre d 'hotel. . LS 
" plain boiled .... 14 



Page 

Beans, navy , . . 1$ 

" plain boiled.... 13 

panachee 12 

puree of lima 15 

" of navy 13 

red kidney 14 

string 11 

'• Anglaise 12 

" Bretonne 12 

" in cream 12 

" fine herbs 12 

" for garnish — 12 

" in gravy 12 

" plain boiled... 11 

" poulette 12 

" salad 12 

" vinaigrette 12 

wax 13 

Windsor lo 

Beets 15 

Beets, baked 16 

in cream 16 

greens 17 

with melted butter.. 16 

pickled l'i 

plain boiled 16 

stalks with mltd butr 17 

stuffed 17 

Beet root mayonnaise. .. 16 

'• salad 16 

Bermuda onions dressed.. 74 
onions au gratin 74 

Boiled cabbage 19 

carrots, white sauce. 24 

cauliflower 27 

celeriac, m'l't'd b't'r 28 
celery, white sauce.. 29 

chestnuts 30 

green corn on cob 34 

green peas — 77 

" supreme .. 79 

hominy grits 86 

bop-Shoots 47 

hulled corn 37 

kale & smoked jowl.. 48 
leeks cream dressing 49 

onions 71 

potatoes in Jackets.. 82 

potatoes peeled 82 

rice 01 

salsify, drawn butter 99 
>.. mp 1 br'k'f't cereal) 36 

Spanish onions 71 

spinach with bam. . .".04 

'• Jowl.. .104 

" &pkldmeatl04 

plain 103 

summer squash 106 

turnips, dr'n butter 115 

winter squash 106 

Borders, mashed potatoes 85 

Border, rice 97 

Borecole, or kale 48 

Boston baked beans 13 

Braised cu'mbers.ox mow 40 
lettuceforgarni.vli'g. 53 
stuffed onions Ti 



120 



Page 

Brazil-nut salad 67 

Broad or Windsor beans... 15 

Broucoli 17 

Broiled mushrooms 60 

potatoes 85 

tomatoes 110 

Browned mashed potatoes 86 

potatoes 82 

Brussels sprouts 18 

Bechamel 19 

fried in crumbs 18 

for garnish 18 

in gravy 18 

Jer.arti'ks&,forgrn'h 4 

omelet 18 

plain boiled 18 

salad 19 

saute 18 

Burnt onion sauce 72 

Butter, cress 38 

tarragon 108 

Cabbage, boiled 19 

corned beef with 19 

with fried apples 20 

lettuce, d'uxeile 62 

with pork sausage... 20 

red, pickled 22 

salad, home style.... 21 
" mayonnaise .. 21 

" plain 21 

savoy 100 

soup, Flemish style . 21 

stewed in cream 20 

stuffed, fermiere 20 

for garnish.. 20 
thousand headed.... 18 

Cakes fried rice 95 

potato 84 

Calamlnt 22 

Candied yams — 107 

Canned mushrooms 63 

for steaks 63 
Canned tomatoes, stewed. 109 

Cantaloup 22 

to serve 22 

Capers 22 

Caper sauce 23 

Caraway 23 

Cardoon 23 

with ox marrow 23 

salad 23 

Carrots 23 

and beet root salad.. 25 
boiled. white sauce.. 24 

a la creme 24 

with fine herbs 24 

maitre d'hotel 24 

mashed 25 

pickled 25 

poulette 24 

puree of 25 

souffle 25 

young fried 25 

Catchup or catsup 25 

m ushroom . . 26 

tomato 26 

walnut 25 

Caulim >wer 26 

boiled 27 



Page 
Cauliflower, cream soup.. 27 

fried In batter 27 , 

for garnish 27 

augratin 27 

Italian 27 

mayonnaise 27 

salad 27 

vinaigrette 27 I 

Celeriac. boiled. mltdbut'r 28 
salad, German style. 28 

Celery 28 

boiled, white sauce.. 29 
cream of. Comtesse.. 29 r 
frizzled,t'orsalads,etc 29 

mayonnaise 29 

prepare for relish.... 28 

salad 29 

stewed in gravy 29 

turnip-rooted 117 

cepes 63 

champignons 63 

Chervil 29 

Chestnuts 30 

boiled 30 < 

garnish chipolata 30 

how to prepare 30 

salad 67 

smiling 30 

and truffles stuffing 114 , 
Chicken soup with okra.. . 70 

Chick-peas 31 

Chicory 31 

salad 31 

Chili sauce 46 

Chipolata sausage 54 . 

Chives or cives 31 

Chopped parsley 76 

Chowder, green corn 35 

Cinnamon 32 

C loves 32 

Cockie-leekie soup 49 ' 

Cole slaw 21 

Consomme, asp'r'g's tips f r 9 

Corn(lndian) 32 

green, bTd on cob... 34 
" chowder, N. E. 35 

" cream of 35 • 

" fritters 34 

" au Jgratin 34 

" roasted on ear 35 
" steam'don ear 35 
" st'w'd in cre'm 34 * 
" and tomatoes. 35 

boiled hulled 37 

hulled 37 

oysters 34 

salad 37 

Corned beef with cabbage . 19 
Cos lettuce, stuffed(salad) 52 

Cream, artichoke 2 

of asparagus. Comt.. 8 ^ 
of celery, Comtesse.. 29 

of green corn 35 

of lettuce soup 53 

of macaroni (soup).. 56 
of mushr ms,suprem 61 i 
of salsify, Bechamel 100 

of sorrel (soup) 101 

of tomato.home style 111 



121 



Tage 
Creamed Spanish onions.. 71 
Cress (garden or pepper).. 37 

butter. 38 

for garnishing 38 

salad , 38 

(water) 37 

Croquettes, potato 84 

rice 95 

Croustade, rice 97 

Cucumbers 3S 

braised, ox marrow.. 40 

fried 40 

for garnish 40 

& green onion salad 40 

for relish 39 

salad , 39 

stuffed 40 

and tomato salad 40 

Curry 41 

Curried macaroni 55 

rice 95 

Custard, onion, for soups . 74 

Dandelion c... . 41 

greens 41 

and potato Balad .... 42 

salad 42 

Dill 42 

pickles 4U 

Dressing, for potato salad. 80 

Dried okra 0B 

Dumplings 88 

Egns, artichokes with 2 

Egg-plnnt 42 

fr'ed in crumbs 43 

fried in batter 43 

fruit, mashed 44 

fruit. st'ff. d. lndienne 43 
fruit, stuffed plain.. 43 

au gratin 43 

omelet 43 

plain, fried 42 

and tomatoes fried.. 43 

Endive 44 

English mustard (plain).. 64 

Essence of mushrooms 60 

of tomatoes Ill 

Faggot of parsley 75 

Farce. asp'r'gs.f or pomp'd'r 6 

Fennel(sweet) — 44 

Filberts 44 

Frappe, tomato, for relish 112 

French fried potatoes 83 

mustard 64 

Fricasse of mushrooms, 

poulette 62 

Fried cucumbers 40 

green tomatoes 112 

hominy grits 36 

hop-shoots in crumbs 47 

Hubbard squash 10fi 

Indian meal mush.. . 36 

oat meal mush 69 

okra pods 70 

onionB 73 

parsley 74 

parsnips plain 76 

rice 95 

rice cak^s 95 

salsify in batter 100 



Page 

Fried salsify in crumbs 100 

samp 36 

tomatoes 110 

young carrots 25 

Fritters, greeu corn 34 

rice 95 

Frizzled cel'ry for s'l'ds. etc 29 

Garden cress 37 

Garlic 45 

Garnish, artichokes for ... 2 
asparagus lips lor.. 9 
braised lettuce for.. 52 
brussels sprouts ior IS 

cauliflower for 27 

chestnut, chipolata. 30 

cress lor 38 

cucumbers for 40 

ala flamande 18 

glazed carrots for 24 

glazed onions for 73 

green peas for 78 

Jer. artichokes and 
Brussels sprouts for 4 
morels, prepare for.. 58 
mushr'm but'na for 61 
okra pods prep'd for 70 
parsley prepared for 75 

potatoes for 86 

puree of lentils.conde 50 
puree of turnips — lb'> 

string beans lor 12 

stuffed cabbage for.. 20 

stuffed truffles for.. .114 

tomatoes stuffed for 111 

German fried potatoes — 83 

Gherkins (sour) 41 

(sweet) 41 

Ginger 45 

Glace asparagus 9 

Glazed carrots for garnish 24 
onions for garnish .. 73 

turnips 116 

potatoes 89 

Green corn, boiled on cob.. 34 
chowder. New Eng... 35 

cream of 35 

fritters 34 

au gratin 34 

roasted on the ear.. 3i 
steamed on the ear.. 35 

stewed in cream 34 

and tomatoes 35 

Green onions for relish 73 

Green peas, boiled 77 

boiled, supreme 7'J 

In butter sauce 78 

in cream 78 

Franoalee 79 

for garnishing 78 

old fashion 78 

paysanne 78 

puree of. conde 79 

puree of St. Germain 79 

salad 80 

saute with bacon 78 

Green peasoup, home style 79 

Green peppers 45 

" saute 46 

" stuffed, Mex. 45 



122 



Page 

Greens, beet 17 

dandelion 41 

turnip-top 116 

Gruel, barley 10 

oatmeal 68 

rice 97 

Gumbo (see okra 46 

Hasbed brown potatoes.. 84 
potatoes in cream ... 84 

Hazel-nuts 46 

salad 46 

Herbs, aromatic , 

Hominy grits boiled 36 

frltd 36 

Hops . 46 

Hop-sboots, boiled 47 

fried in crumbs 47 

vinaigrette 47 

Horse-radish 47 

sauce (cold) 47 

sauce for b'l'd f 's'h bf 47 
sauce for b'l'd sea flsh 47 

Hot slaw, plain 20 

German style 20 

Hubbard squash, fried ...106 

Hulled corn 37 

Imitation new potatoes.. . 8:> 

Indian corn 32 

Indian meal mush. 36 

Japanese soy(sauce) 102 

Jasmine 47 

Jerusalem artichokes 3 

baked 4 

b'l'd with white sauce 4 
and Brussels sprouts 

for garnish 4 

au gratin 4 

Italian 4 

Lyonnalse 4 

mashed 4 

soup 4 

Juice, onion 73 

Juniper 48 

Kale or borecole 48 

b'l'd. & smoked jowl 48 

salad 48 

Kohlrabi 49 

Lamb's lettuce ' 37 

Laurel leaves 49 

Leeks 49 

boiled, cream dress'g 49 
and lettuce salad., a 50 

Romaln 49 

Lentils 50 

puree of 5'J 

nureeof, conde 50 

Lettuce 51 

'o raised for garnish.. 52 
c ibbaae, d'uxelle — 52 

L imb's "J7 

:-aiad 51 

salad German style.. 52 

and tomato salad 52 

Lima beans 14 

niaitre d'hotel 15 

plain boiled 14 

puree of 15 

salad 15 



Page 
Lobster and asp'r'g's salad 8 

Macaroni 53 

how to boil 53 

cream of.. 56 

curried 55 

Genevois 54 

au gratin 54 

a l'ltalienne 64 

Mllanaise 55 

Napolitaine 55 

ravioles 56 

soup a l'ltalienne. .. 56 
timbale, a la creme. . 64 
timbale, serpentine. . 55 

Mace 56 

Marjoram 57 

Marrons 57 

Marrow, ox; cardoon with 23 

Mashed carrots 25 

egg-plant fruit 44 

parsnips 76 

potatoes 82 

potatoes for borders 85 

sweet potatoes 108 

turnips 115 

winter squash 106 

Mayonnaise, beet-root 16 

Mint 67 

sauce 57 

Morel or moril 57 

Morels, prep, for garnish.. 68 

saute 58 

stuffed 58 

Mush, fried oat meal 69 

fried Indian meal... 36 

Indian meal 36 

Mushrooms 68 

broiled 60 

buttons for garnish . . 61 
canned, for steaks.. 63 

catchup 26 

dried 63 

essence of 60 

fricasse of, poulette 62 

au gratin 61 

omelet 03 

patties 63 

plain baked 62 

(prepare for cooking) 60 

sauce (brown) 62 

sauce (white) 62 

sauce of can'd (br'n) 63 
" (white) 63 

saute 62 

stuffed 60 

Muskmelon 63 

Mustard 64 

and cress salad 64 

English, plain 64 

French 64 

Nasturtium 65 

and potato salad 65 

sauce 65 

Navy beans 13 

plain boiled 13 

Nests, potato 91 

New England boiled dinner 65 

New potatoes 86 

Nutmeg 66 



123 



Page 

Nut salads 67 

Oat 63 

Oatmeal gruel 68 

porridge 68 

Oats, rolled 69 

Okra 69 

chicken soup with.. . 70 

dried 69 

and endive salad 69 

Okra, plain boiled 69 

salad 70 

saute, Creole 70 

pods, fried 70 

pods, prep. for garn'g 
soups and stews . 70 

Omelet, artichoke 3 

asparagus 7 

with Brussels sprouts 18 

egg plant 43 

mushroom 63 

onion 74 

spinach 105 

tomato 112 

truffle 114 

Onions 70 

baked 72 

boiled 71 

braised stuffed 72 

creamed Spanish 71 

custard for soups 74 

fried 73 

glazed for garnishing 73 

green, for relish 73 

juice. 73 

omelet 74 

pickled 74 

puree of 72 

sauce 72 

sauce, burnt 72 

smothered 73 

6oup, Bretonno 72 

Bermuda, dressed.. . 74 

" au gratln . 74 

Ox-marrow, cardoon witb . 23 

cuc'mb'rs b'rs'd with 40 

Oysters, corn 34 

Oyster plant 74 

panachee, beans 12 

Pancake, potato 85 

Parsley 74 

sauce 7» 

chopped 75 

faggot of 75 

fried 74 

green 75 

prepared for garnish 75 

Parsnip 75 

fried in batter 76 

fried plain 76 

mashed 76 

saute 76 

Patties, asparagus 6 

mushroom 63 

rice — 

Peanuts 76 

salted 77 

Pearl barley 9 

for breakfast cereal . 9 



Page 

Peas 77 

green, boiled 77 

" boil'd, suprem 79 
" in butter sauce 7S 

" in cream 78 

" Francaise 79 

" for garnishing 78 
" old fashion.. 78 

paysanne 78 

•* puree of, conde 79 
pur'eof St.Ger 79 

" salad 80 

" sa'tewith b'c'n 78 

split, puree of 79 

Pecan salad 67 

Pennyroyal 80 

Pepper 80 

cress 37 

Peppermint . . 80 

Pickled beets 17 

carrots 25 

onions 74 

red cabbage 22 

Pickles, dill 40 

Pies.pumpkin prepared for 93 

Pistachio— nut 80 

nut salad 67 

Poached eggs.splnach wltb.105 
Pokeberry or pokeweed ... 81 

Poppy 81 

Pork sausage, cabb'ge with 20 

Porridge, oatmeal 68 

of rolled oats 69 

Potato 81 

alguillette 87 

al'Anglaise 86 

Aurora 86 

baked 82 

boiled in jackets 82 

" peeled 82 

bonneofemme 87 

boulettea 87 

brabant 87 

Bretonne 87 

broiled 85 

browned 82 

browned mashed .... 85 

cakes 84 

charlsruhe 87 

chateau 87 

chiffonade 88 

chipolata 87 

colbert 88 

alacreme 88 

Creole 88 

croquettes 84 

dauphine 88 

Duchesse 88 

dumplings 88 

epicurean 88 

fanchonettes 89 

Francaise 89 

French fried 83 

for garnishing 86 

gastronome 89 

Genevoise 89 

georgette 89 

German fried 83 

glazed 89 



124 

Page 

Potato, au gratin 64 

hashed brown 84 

hashed in cream 84 

and herring salad ... 86 

Hollandaise 90 

imitation new 83 

Itaiienne 90 

Julienne 90 

Long Branch 90 

Lyonnaise 84 

maitre d'hotel 90 

mashed 82 

" for borders. 85 

Milanaise 90 

Monaco 90 

naturel 90 

Navarraise 91 

nests 91 

new 80 

noodles 91 

en pailles 89 

pancake 85 

Parisienne 91 

persillade 91 

puffs 91 

puree Jackson 85 

quenelles 91 

regent 92 

rissoles 83 

rolls 92 

Rouennaise 92 

salad, German style 86 
" home style — 8*> 

" plain 86 

saute 84 

serpentine 92 

souffles 83 

special baked 83 

stewed 84 

'• In cream 85 

tartlets 92 

Victoria 92 

Windsor 72 

Pumpkin 92 

prepared for pies 93 

Puffs, potato 91 

Puree, artichoke 2 

asparagus 8 

of carrots 25 

of green peas, conde. 79 
"St. Ger. 79 

Jackson 85 

of lentils (soup) 50 

" conde (garn) 50 

of Lima beans 15 

of navy beans 13 

of onions (soup) 72 

of sorrel 101 

soubise 72 

of spinach (plain).. .104 

of split peas 79 

of tomato Ill 

of turnips 116 

Radish 93 

winter, (to serve) 93 

young tips, (to serve) 93 

Ravioles, spinach 104 

Red cabbage 94 

" pickled 22 



Page 

Red kidney beans , 14 

Relish, cucumbers for 39 , 

green onions for 73 

prepare celery for... 28 

tomatoes for 112 

tomato f rappe for . . .112 

Rhubarb 94 

Rice 94 -i 

boiled 94 

border 97 

cakes, fried 95 

casserole 96 

conde 96 

Rice, Creole. 95 * 

croquettes 95 

croustade 97 

curried 95 

fried 95 

fritters 95 ' 

au gratin 96 

gruel 97 

Milanaise 96 

Neapolitan 96 

patties 97 

prep'd for soups, etc. 97 
pyramids en surprise 95 

steamed 95 

timbales 97 

Rissoles, potatoes 83 

Roasted green corn on ear 35 ■ 

Rocambole 97 

Rolled oats 69 

" porridge of.... 69 

Rolls, potato 92 

Romaino or cos lettuce.... 98 

Rosemaiy 98 

Rutabaga or Swed. turnip. 98 

Rye 98 

Saffron 99 

Sage 99 

Salad, almond 67 * 

aspar'gus and lobster 8 
aspar'g's and salmon 7 
aspar'gus and sbrlmp 8 

beet- root 16 

Brazil-nut 67 

of Brussels sprouts.. 19 \ 

cabbage, plain 21 

" home style. 21 
" mayonnaise 21 

cardoon 23 

carrot and beet-root 25 » 

cauliflower 27 

celery 29 

frizzled for... 29 
celeriac, Ger. style.. 28 

chestnut 67 I 

chicory 31 

corn 37 

cos lettuce « 5'i 

cress 38 

cucumber 39 I 

" & green onion 40 
" & tomato... 40 

dandelion 42 

" and potato. 42 i 
green onion, cucum& 40 

" pea 80 

hazel-nut 46 



Page 
Salad, herring and potato. 80 

kale 48 

leek and lettuce 50 

lettuce 51 

" German style. 52 
M and tomato... 52 

Lima bean 15 

mustard and cress... 64 
nasturtium & potato 65 

Okra..... 70 

" and endive 69 

pecan 67 

potato plain ..... 86 

" German style. 86 
" potato & herr'g 86 
" home style.... 85 

pistachio nut 67 

shrimp & asparagus. 8 

salsify ....100 

sorrel .....101 

spinach 105 

string bean .... 12 

stuffed tomato 112 

tomato, Boston style 112 

walnut 67 

Salmon, & aspar'gus salaJ 7 

Salsify 9'.) 

boiled, drawn butter. 99 

a la creme 100 

cream of, Bechamel 100 

fried i n batter 100 

fried in crumbs 1C0 

salad 100 

Salted peanuts 77 

Samp 36 

boiled 36 

fried 36 

Saratoga chips 85 

Sauce, burnt onion 72 

of c'ndm'sh'rm.white 63 
11 *• brown 63 

caper 23 

Japanese soy 102 

mint 57 

mushroom, brown... 62 

white ... 62 

•' buttons for 61 

nasturtium 65 

onion 72 

parsley 75 

Spanish onion 72 

tomato Ill 

truffle 113 

walnut 118 

Sauerkraut 21 

American style 22 

German style 22 

Sausage, chipolata 54 

Saute green peppers 46 

Savory 100 

Savoy cabbage 100 

Serpentine potatoes 92 

Shallot 100 

Shrimp and asp'r'gus salad 8 

Slaw, cole 21 

hot, plain 20 

" German style 20 

Small patties of truffles... 114 
Smothered onions 73 



125 

Page 

Sorrel 101 

cream of 101 

plain boiled 102 

puree of 101 

salad 101 

stewed 101 

Soubise, purt e 72 

Souffles, potatoes 83 

Soup, artichoke 3 

barley cream 10 

cabbage, Flem. style 21 
cauliflower cream... 27 
celery, cream of..... 29 

chicken okra.. 70 

cockie-leekie 49 

cream of green corn. 35 

" " lettuce 53 

" " macaroni ..56 
" " mushrooms. 61 
" " salsify, B'chlOO 

" " sorrel 101 

" " tomato HI 

green pea, home style 79 
Jerusalem artichoke. 4 
macaroni, a l'ltal'ne 56 

onion, Breton ne 72 

" custard for... 74 
puree J'cks'n(potato) 85 

" of lentils 50 

" " onions 72 

" " split peas ... 79 
rice prepared for, etc 97 
spinach, mar'w dump 105 

Soy- Japanese, (sauce) 102 

Soy-bean 102 

Spanish onions, creamed.. 71 

onion sauce 72 

Spear-mint 102 

special baked potatoes.... 83 

Spinach 102 

boiled, plain 103 

boiled with ham, jowl 
and pickled meats... 104 

a la creme 104 

green 103 

with gravy 104 

home style 104 

maitre d'hotel 105 

omelet 105 

with poached eggs... 105 

puree of, plain 104 

en pyramide 105 

ravioles 104 

salad 105 

soup, mar'w dumpl'g 105 

Split peas, puree of 79 

Squash 105 

baked winter 106 

boiled summer 106 

" winter 106 

mashed winter 106 

stuffed 106 

Stalks, beet, melted butter 17 
Steamed green corn on ear 35 

rice 95 

tomatoes 110 

Stewed canned tomatoes.. 109 

celery in gravy 29 

green corn in cream. 34 



126 



Stewed, potatoes 84 

in cream.. .. 85 

sorrel 101 

^ tomatoes 109 

" Span, style .109 

turnips in cream 115 

poulette ....115 
J " while sauce 115 

i Strawberry tomato 107 

tomato, baked 107 

fried 107 

String beans 11 

" Anglaise 12 

" Bretonns 12 

" in cream 12 

' ' w'h fine herbs 12 
" for garnish. .. 12 

" in gravy 12 

" plain boiled.. 11 

" poulette 12 

" salad 12 

" vinaigrette... 12 

Stuffed beets 17 

cabbage, fermiere... 20 

" for garnish 20 

cos lettuce (salad)... 52 

cucumbers 40 

et(g- plant fruit. Ind.. -13 
green pepper, Mexl'n 45 

mushrooms 60 

" Itallenne 60 

" Tierra Del Fu 61 

squash 106 

v tomatoes 110 

Creole Ill 

" for garnish. Ill 
" Mexican ...111 
" provencal ..110 

" salad il2 

truffles for garnishi'g 114 

Stuffing, asparagus 6 

for cabbage fermiere 20 

chestnut 30 

truffles and chestnut 114 
Succotash(corn and beans) 34 

Swedish turnip 98 

Sweet potatoes 107 

" candied yams 107 

" mashed li>8 

Swiss chard 108 

Tarragon 108 

butter 108 

vinegar 108 

Tartlets, potato 92 

Thousand headed cabbage 18 

Thyme , 108 

Timbale of macaroni, cr'm 54 
Timbale of macaroni, serp 55 

rice 97 

Tomatoes 108 

baked 109 



Page 

Tomatoes, broiled no 

catchup 26 

cream of, home style 111 
and cucumber salad. 112 

essence of m 

frappe for relish 1 12 

fried no 

'• green U2 

au gratin no 

green corn and 35 

omelet 112 

puree of m 

lor relish 112 

salad, Boston style ..112 

sauce " in 

steamed no 

stewed 109 

" Spanish style 109 , 

stuffed no ' 

" Creole Ill 

'' for garnish. .111 

" Mexican Ill 

m " provencale.. 110 

Truffles 112 , 

and chestnut stuffing 114 ' 

epicurean 114 

small patties of 114 

omelet 114 

perigueux ] 14 . 

sauce 113 I 

stuffed, for garnish.. 114 

Turnips 115 

boiled, drawn butter 115 

flnanciere 116 

glazed. no 5 

" in gravy 116 

au gratin no 

mashed 115 

puree of ns 

stewed in cream 115 

" Poulette 115 \ 

" white sauce. .115 
Swedish or rutabaga. 98 

Turnip-top greens 116 

Turnip-cabbage 1 17 

Turnip-rooted celery 117 

Vegetable kingdom 117 r 

Vegetable marrow 117 

Vienna rolls, asp'r'gus tips 7 

Vinegar, tarragon 108 

Watercress 37 

Watermelon 118 ^ 

Walnuts 117 

catchup 25 

salad 67 

sauce 118 

Wax beans 13 * 

Wheat us 

Winter radish. how to serve 93 

Yams, candied 107 

Young carrots, asp'gus with 7 i 
Young tips, radish to serve 9S ' 



THE HOTEL MONTHLY 

HANDBOOK SERIES 

and other standard publications 
for hotels, clubs & restaurants 



For Sale by The Hotel Monthly, John Willy, 
Publisher, 325 Dearborn St., Chicago 

Sent to any address (carriage prepaid) upon receipt 
of price. Catalogue sent free upon request. 

THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. Price. $1. 
This is a collection of the artioles contributed to 
the Hotel Monthly under this head from 1898 to 
1900, by John Tellman. It forms the most complete 
exposition of the steward's duties that has appeared 
in print. Contains articles on the management of 
help, bill of fare making, banquets, party catering, 
buying, carving; storeroom and wine room book, 
keeping (illustrate d); kitchen, bakeshop and store- 
room equipment (with lists of utensils); organiza- 
tion for small, medium and large hotels; plans of 
working department, specimen bills of fare, menus, 
requisition blanks, market lists, etc.; also exhaust- 
ive article on wines and liqueurs of the world. 
THE GHEE'S REMINDER (vesFpocket), Price, $i. 

The contents are: Breakfast, including Fruits 
in Season ; Cereals ; Fish (37 kinds); Broiled meats 
(24 kinds); Fried meats (15 kinds); Entrees and 
miscellaneous (under 59 separate heads; Omelets 
(28 kinds); eggs (35 ways); Cold meats; Potatoes 
(under 19 heads); Hot Breads and cakes; Drinks; 
several specimen breakfast menus. Wink service. 
Game laws of the united states. Luncheons, 
including Soups (under 37 heads); Relishes; Fish; 
Entrees (under one hundred and fifty-seven different 
heads); Specimen luncheon menus Supper, in- 
cluding Vegetable Salads & their Dressings (under 
47 heads) ; Chafing Dish Cookery & Service (36 heads). 
FELLOWS' A SELECTION OF DISHES, Price »1. 

The contents include: 739 entrees, 78 hors 
d'oeuvres — hot and cold, 85 salads, 131 soups, broths 
and bouillons, 67 consommes. 40 kinds of fish and 
400 ways of cooking them, 182 sauces, showing their 
ingredients, 125 garnishes, showing their composi- 
tion, 7 fancy butters, 10 flavoring vinegars, 8 fritter 
batters, 50 fancy potato dishes for garnishing, 24 
miscellaneous recipes, 46 valuable hints to cooks 
and stewards, a pronouncing glossary of culinary 
terms giving 734 translations, (pocket edition). 
MEISTER'S VEST POCKET PASTRY BOOK, SI. 

The most useful book for pastry cooks and bakers 
ever published. Contains 500 receipts inoluding: 
50 hot puddings, pudding sauces, etc. ; 77 cold pud- 
dings, sidedishes, jellies, etc.; 90 ice creams, water 
ices, punches, etc.; 68 pastes, patties, pies, tarts, etc.; 
77 cakes; 17 icings, colorings, sugars, etc.; 60 bread, 
rolls, cakes, etc.; 55 miscellaneous receipts. 



< 1100ft 



JAN 10 1902 
M 

THE PRACTICAL HOTEL HOUSEKEEPER, ft. 
Is a collection of the articles contributed to the 
Hotel Monthly magazine under this head from 
1896-1900. Defines the housekeeper's duties. Illus- 
trates systems of keeping track of the linen. Con- 
tains an in structive chap ter on T he Laundry. 
APPLEGltEBN ; S BAR GUIDE, " Price, 91 . 

The receipts include: Cocktails, Collins, Coolers. 
Daisies. Fizzes, Frappes, High Balls, Hot Drinks, 
Mint Juleps. Miscellaneous Drinks. Party Drinks. 
Punches, Rickeys, Smashes. Sours. Temperance 
Drinks and Toddies. This book is intended to 
serve a useful purpose as a "vest pocket" ready 

reference for high class bar or catering serrioe. 

VACHON'tt BOOK OF ECONOMICAL BNTRKH8,S«0 
This is a collection of two hundred receipts con- 
tributed by Mr. Vachon to the Hotel Monthly 
columns and reproduced in convenient vest pocket 
form. The idea of the book is to suggest economy 
and prevent waste by using left-overs, and by malt. 
ing palatable d ishes fr om inexpensi ve materials . 
THE EPICUREAN. elotJi, $8; one-half morocco, $10 
<V Franco-American Culinary Encyclopedia of over 
1200 pages, Illustrated with over eight hundred en- 
gravings. This is the most complete cookery book 
ever written and should find a place in the library of 
every proprietor, manager, steward, ohef, pastry 

cook and bon vivant. 

DELIK^SFRANCO-AMKRICAN COOK BOOK,*3.5U 
A new Treatise, containing over 2.000 recipes, dfao 
different Bills of Fare, giving concise instructions 
how to properlv prepare and serve all kinds or do- 
mestic and foreign culinary provisions in every way. 
JBSSUP WHITEHEAD'S FAMOUS BOOKS. 

THE STEW ARD'S HANDBOOK Price, $3 

THE AMERICAN PASTRYCOOK Price. $2- 

HOTEL MEAT COOKING Price, *2- 

COOKING .FOR PROFIT Price. $3. 

form a Culinary Library in them selves. For f urther 
information regarding the Whitehead books, write 
for the Hotel Monthly book cata logue- 

^UPMNT^TH^~TABL^¥o~W~TO BUY FOOU, 

how to cook it & hoav to serve it. Price, *2.50 
Contains 365 Breakfasts, 365 Luncheons, 3bo Din- 
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wavs of c^in^g^sjJ0^^a^s^o^rJ^d^s^ert8 1 _ 
DBLOUP'8 AMERICAN SALAD BOOK. Price. $1. 
The contents include: The mixing of, decorating 
and garnishing salads; salad dressings and sauces, 
shell fish, tame and wild fowl. egg. meat, vegetable, 
fruit, fancy and m iscellaneo ns^hj ; ds 1 _2j^ecejpts. 

saT^dsTsandwichks and chafing DISH 

DAINTIES Price, $150 

A valuable feature of this book is 32 illustrations, 

all made from photographs of the original dishes 

and s howing a tasteful way of serving them. 

MURREY'S SALADS AND SAUCES- Price, 50 cents 
A litt le handbook o r the gourmet's nicest art. 
t NCATELLl'S T HE MODERN COOK. Price. $2 
'HYS IOLOGY OF TASTK. $3 . 
IW TO USE THEM. $1.60 

styles. 

ONE HUNDRED WAYS OF COOKING EGGS,5lTcts 



A little nnnODOOK or ine go 

ly%frNCATELLl'S THE MOL 

lp MbBB'8 THBL JKY8IOI 

MEYER'S EGGS J*dA3W 

Presents over 5WWifjjp|PtJ 




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